If you use diatomaceous earth you should water from the bottom, when wet it doesn’t work as it should… 
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Thanks @US3RNAM3, I am the Rookie in Triple A ball this season. And just ecstatic about the kids in the tent.
Between the lines is my plan… lol
Have a great day and sure nice to see you on the sidelines bro
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George, can you give me the Basics on watering from below…
It sounds like a perfect method, I’ve not heard the key points
A message or on here is all good. Thanks for making the Comment @George or I’d have applied the Meds and watered through…
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BTI(Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis) is a naturally occurring bacteria that will work wonders on controlling fungus gnats.
Mosquito bits is the product that I use.
That, in conjunction with sticky traps and diatomaceous earth, will have all fungus gnat populations destroyed.
And yes, I agree with the bottom-watering. The DE must be dry to be useful for the eradication of pests. If the roots are established, I’d just fill the drip trays and let em suck it up. Or you need to re-apply DE when the surface has dried after watering.
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Thanks a zillion for that update @blowdout2269
Really appreciated, new angle
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Oaxaca is the way.
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We are in stereo mode here @CocoaCoir, I have never knowingly Smoked Oaxacan !
So I’m jacked that I have 3 shots right here !
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Anytime bud.
I’ve had to wage war with these little bastards more than once, lol. This always works for me.
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DE is 80.90 % Silica, you can burn your lillies if repeatedely applied in the seedlings, rice hulls is a great idea from our common friend, but I’m afraid they are much more abondant in Thailand 
.(Sand also stops those bastards)
Watering from the bottom works by capilarity, keeping dry the soil surface works great. You should retire any remnant water after some time passed if it’s not absorbed, no wet feet for your beauties … 
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Fungal gnats are the easiest to get rid of with hydrogen peroxide spray on soil surface for eggs. Some sticky traps on top if you want to get rid of adults and theyll be gone asap without any detriment to the plants. I used to get these in bad cococoir.
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Yes, but to much H2O2 can be bad for a health soil biome.
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I used the mosquito bits one time before I brought the plants into the tent from outside not only for the mosquitos but for the fungus gnats. Just sprinkled a bit on top and watered it in. This is the first time ever that I have not had a fungus gnat problem. Couple sticky traps for the stragglers and no more problems.
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Bingo @Kasper0909 Thanks, thats where I’m headed
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You can make an effective trap with a bowl and piece of plastic you poke holes thru
Put apple cider vinegar or some other vinegar in there with a bit of sugar and dishsoap
I caught some big fat prehistoric looking gnats lately!
The mosquito bits I soak for 2 days then use the water
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McGyver always has a chance in these affairs doesn’t he. Thanks @herbgreen I’m liking the sounds of this as well, love the Ol’school feel
Appreciate the “Soak-em” comment !
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I steep the bits for 24+hrs, like a tea. Then water them in. This will take car of any larvae trying to come out.
Just like @herbgreen. 
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I have safer brand sticky traps right next to the bowl trap and nothin’…
I caught about 7 fatties last few days in the vinegar trap
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I’m puttin’ in a nice deep layer of sand…keep up with the mosquito bits every water
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That has succeeded in the past for me as well. Separating the Bedroom and the Kitchen is the key.
And thats where I learned that engineered Sands are dangerous ie: masonry sand. It will suffocate the plant, forming a solid layer, as my friend discovered his plant drooping 3 hours after applying it.
friendly Heads-up and keep it as natural as possible
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DE can be applied wet but needs to dry to be effective
I read about it being applied as a ‘slurry’ …must be for larger commercial situations