I agree with my friend. You could try spraying the stalks and remove the lower leaves. YouTube videos on stuff. Hydrogen peroxide will kill some stuff or slow them down. With the weather changing the are looking for food.
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Spider mites= death by a thousand cuts. Look deep in your biggest colas for initial damage, mites are like herpes, once you got em, thereās no getting rid of it. Been there.
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Theyāre not near the tomato plants anymore. Iām removing every leaf I see with mite damage, eggs or larva. Like I said, I havenāt seen any spider mites yet. I think they just got there.
I think I might fight them for another week and then cut. Iāve gone over the plant with a fine tooth comb. I donāt see any spiders or webs in the buds.
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Great you could move them 
, thought they were planted on soil. You cannot normally see mites naked eye, keep spraying and trimming suspicious leaves. Once you harvest, inspect your buds with a scope as I did, washing them with baking soda and lemon will remove dead corpses but wonāt kill them if theyāre still there.
Be constant with your fight and if you caught them early there could be some hope ā¦ 
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Purecrop1. Though I never have, folks claim you can use it deep into flower and as a bud wash. I got a sample from my local store and never had a use for itā¦ then a gifted fiddle leaf fig came into the house and had spider mites. Plant was also stressing during the transition to organic soil. Foliar application of purecrop1 at full strength, 3 times, and Iāve never seen them again.
Edit: I should add, I was quite impressed with how that plant responded to the product, besides the elimination of the spider mites. It helped that repot/transition period a lot and when combined with some foliar nutrition really helped that plant turn the corner.
What a bitch, i have had that happen once to me also, pretty much all of us growers doing it any length of time have had pests once. Once you battle the lil bastagesās, you will forever hate them and watch MUCH keener on future grows.
Mine were 3 weeks out, was a big set of plants. I took a clone from a local i didnt knowā¦a month earlier. Plants were stellar and on point till they got nuff numbers to hammer them . By time i saw, all plants under that light had mites.
Was not gonna lose that harvest. I hit them in morning with 1 3/4 tbls of Neem in a half gallon. Hit them at night with Spinosad, 4 tbls/Gallon at night. Every 2nd day i used straight up water.
Used a nice big heavy duty 5 gallon pump sprayer with adjustable nozzle. Pumped the crap out of it, BLASTED all the Ladies top to bottom, used 1/2 gallon on 4 big plants each dose. Soaking wet, dripping for 5 minutes. Turned light low while spraying, left 2-3 hours, turned back up.
Did that for maybe 10 daysā¦was lot of damn work. Made one hell of a mess too.
First 2 days killed the live ones, next days were egg killing. Plants perked immediatley once lil fuckers were dead. Kept hitting them to the point i could see they couldnt take anymore without hurting them severly. Hosed them straight water another 2 straight days.
Let them run a week longer than normal. Washed the harvest.
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Have you scoped the plants? Donāt go chopping your plant early or washing them with anything crazy or listening to any bad advice, until you scope your plants.
I know you say you see spider mite damage, but unless you can verify there are spider mites on those plants, you may be over reacting. Especially if you have never seen spider mite damage up close and personal before. Just saying
I see the tiny, white and black, and I mean very tiny things on the bottom of the leaves that have the white specs on them. And I see for the first time today actually about an inch long web, or atleast a single string of Web. I can see little white/yellow colored spider type bugs walking around on the bottom of the tomato leaves. Those also have the white and black things on the bottom of the leaves, which I assume are eggs and larva. I just havenāt seen those little walking bugs on the marijuana plant yet.
Are they going to keep breading, living, laying eggs, and hatching, while the plants hanging and drying and curing in jars?
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what do you use to scope? to see the mites? Fill me in, give me some details.
Have the same one. Been really happy with it.
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Good advice. If they are real bad I would do what @Esrgood4u says. Lots to consider though. If you have good weather you can spray as many off with just water. Just do early in the day and make sure to dry them off easily. Oh and move them away from where you have them to do this. If itās cold they usually slow down too.
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Have never tried this but read the article recently. Might be a good experiment nonetheless. Keep us posted
Edit itās more of a fungicide. I thought it made mention of mites but I looked back through and didnāt see any reference to that. Sorry.
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No, probably the best to use hypochlorous acid for fungi/bacterial infectionsā¦
From everything Iāve heard Blue Magic is the only organic that does a hell of a job on mites,thrips,aphid.
It is pricey at $99/ Qt but a commercial grower I respect was having a hell of a time with mites. Tried some different miticides, predacious mites with limited sucess. One shot with the blue Magic and they were friedā¦I have absolutely no affiliation with the material or company, but like to spread the news when growers are looking for optionsā¦
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Cut em early.
I personally dont like to spray anything at all on my flowers.
Plus it doesnt sound too bad just double check the insides of the buds to be safe.
Harvesting a little early isnt bad.
Good luck.
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Are they going to keep breading, living, laying eggs, and hatching, while the plants hanging and drying and curing in jars? What happens to them after the plant is cut and is hung to dry? They feed on chlorophyl right? So is the problem pretty much gone after the plant starts drying.
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NO, mites feed on plant sap. They have āraspingā mouth parts. They āgrindā through the leaf cuticle to get to the epidermal cells. The plantās vascular flow of sap (bleed) actually feeds them once theyāve destroyed the cuticle.
So soon after you cut your plant, that vascular flow stops, and they canāt survive for longā¦
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Late to the discussion here and my advice is preventive in the future. I spray ortho on my floor and sides of the tent after each grow. When I flip to 12/12 I apply another application on the floor of the tent. āknock on woodā no sight of them after 2 grows in the new place. Grow buddy 2 miles away from me with same setup got them. He doesnāt use otho. We both use sunshine mix#4 and do not recycle the dirt it just goes out doors in flower beds.