Every year around this time I get spider mites that make it in from outdoors. I spray plants with Monterey Garden Spray w/ Spinosad in veg while there are problems. I’ve also sprayed empty room’s with bifenthrin a couple times before and that has seemed to help fix things up quickly.
I am wondering if there is a contact killer which works on spider mites that hangs around on surfaces for a month or two, something similar to bifenthrin but more preferable for some reason or another?
https://overgrow.com/search?context=topic&context_id=128308&q=One%20n%20done&skip_context=true
Maybe this might help.
That sounds like a great spray that’s quite safe for on plant use. Definitely bookmarked that recipe.
I’m not sure if a oil, acid, emulsifier/surfactant is going to provide surface contact killing for a month though.
I’d like something I can spray cracks, corners, doors, and gaps in the house that’ll help stop the outside to inside flow of mites during fall, and also spray on floors, ratchet ropes, and drain pans to help kill the ones that are already in there.
Diatomaceous earth will do it, sulfur too
this right here ^^^
I find mites develop immunity to the Monterey’s garden spray with spinosad and it only knocks them back temporarily. I use Pylon now on surfaces and mothers and it kills them.
For the ones not on the plants I made a shaker bottle by drilling holes like a salt shaker in the lid of a large perscription bottle and use that to apply diatomaceous earth to the soil surfaces, the floor around and beneath the pots , all around the perimeter of the room and entranceways. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed on walls but it must be repeated weekly if it’s used as a spray.
I get spiders, beetles, earwigs and even ants always trying to overwinter in my grow room and the diatomaceous earth puts a stop to that
I did not know this, very cool! Thanks brother 
Some good info
ya mixing wth water reduces it’s effectiveness but when the water dries it will leave the DE behind as a residual. When spraying hard surfaces, don’t soak the area, just a light mist so it sticks and doesn’t run off.
This makes me want to postpone my wintergrows and not have a living thing in my grow area until i know we have the freeze in full effect and Ozone treat and sulpher every surface i can then start up after the smoke clears.Seems like everyone is getting hitchhikers from the still tolerable outdoors that or bringing it in the form of clones from other places that were infested.
I’ve used DE in a shaker and have water soluble (or somehow water mixable) sulfur. I’m avoiding powders like DE for lung safety. And I got the sulfur but even though it’s safer just didn’t want powders drifting around from repeated room sprayings and haven’t used it.
I’ll check out the Pylon
I’ve used Doktor Doom and Pyrethrum fogges, they work to knock mites out of rooms but take a few sprayings and are fairly expensive after 3 rounds.
Check out SuffOil-X from arbico organics. Another, but more expensive is ZeroTol 2.0 SS/BW…mister 
Doctor doom 3in 1 and thrip killer actually has a 7 week residual from the sprays, I’ve just recently learned this from an entomologist in fact when researching beneficials. Most doctor doom products have at least a 5-7 week residual effect in fact
I fog several times before a grow. Then neem and other stuff on everything. Like floors and walls. No plants involved.
I haven’t used the SuffOil-X, it’s action is a lot like the one-n-done right? People do seem to love that one.
I’ve used peroxyacetic and peroxide premixes, like sanidate and another one i forget the name of, they’ll knock stuff back like fancy peroxide should. But they won’t really keep mites off my floors and out of my wall cracks for a month or so.
Looking for something better than bifenthrin which hangs around for a month on surfaces to kill mites. Is fairly safe on surfaces, and fairly safe after a month (oxidizes from air to safe). It is toxic if you get too much oral exposure to it, though it is used on a bunch of foods, crops, residential:
“Bed bugs control products,
• Dairy and cheese processing facilities,
• Pest control products for pets, and
• Restaurants.
Example outdoor uses of bifenthrin include:
• Agricultural crops including beans, root
vegetables, hops, and melons”
Can get a gallon of 7.9% bifenthrin on amazon for $60.
If I really need to go nuclear and rid a room of any living organism between grows or before a grow , I run a “commercial” (DIY) ozone generator for 48hrs with the room sealed. Followed by a few hours of venting and then I go in and apply a wash down with bleach solution.
I really don’t think you’ll find an effective “Once a Month Spray”, although I may be wrong. @JohnnyPotseed’s “One and Done” is probably your best bet. Remember, every time you come into your grow area from outside, YOU may be introducing pests. Maybe get a Box of “Booties” (Harbor Freight/Lowes/HDepot), wear them in your grow area. I wouldn’t want anything to linger on my floor, ceiling, or walls for a month. Gotta remember, you gotta breathe also. SS/BW…mister
The Doktor Doom fogger do the same thing as the spray? I’ve used them with a fair amount of success and they’re cheaper than the other foggers, but they really need 3 rounds at least to kill everything. I’ll probably pop a few of them too in my current situation. I’d like to spray something longer lasting while the room is empty, at least hit the edges and gaps with the bifenthrin directly, or whatever else if there’s a better residual mite/insect killer.
I don’t all year long but this time of year I always get enough pushing into my old house to cause problems.
I’m not positive tbch but I’d imagine so as most of their products are the same ingredients and utilize canola . I’ll send her(Susan the entemologist) a message and see what she says .
I could do that, would be an easy thing to run between rounds for a day or two (I can stay out of the house for 48hrs easy enough). What’s the DIY version’s story? What sort of one do you need to do a largish room if you’re buying a premade one? I’d seen the AiROS ones I think they were called, but they’re pretty expensive.
I used to run more UV, that seemed to knock everything back a bit.