SyrianLeb dwarf —> Ethiopian highlands

[lefthandseeds]

I’m doing a very light mix to feed these plants. I think they’re pretty sensitive. I’m going to knock back the nitrogen quite a bit and keep the micros at the same level.

Here’s the stats for 5 gallons @ ~1.2EC:
Calcium Nitrate - 8g
Haifa Grow Clean - 8g
Epsom - 8g
Micros - 1g

Pretty easy!

Nutrient	PPM
N (NO3-)	84
N (NH4+)	4.6
P	57
K	141
Mg	41.6
Ca	80.3
S	54.9
Fe	3.7
Mn	1.06
Zn	0.211
B	0.687
Cu	0.053
Mo	0.032

The micros would be correct for plant prod, but I’m using my custom micro mix. It will have a little more B and Zn and a little less Mn.

[ElGalloBlanco]

@lefthandseeds

It’s pretty impractical for indoors!

For sure, it definitely had the look of a plant that would do great outdoors.

[drgreensleeves]

Pack made it thanks bro I’m getting a new phone tomorrow photos pending, thank you for your time and patience PS @lefthandseeds oh I almost forgot smh lol my bad I smoke a little lol anyways thanks for the sticker bro stickers are cool

[lefthandseeds]

The Ethiopians are doing good now. I like the front left the best and back right second. The back left isn’t bad, but the tallest of the 3.

I left the really big one to grow in a tree pot for a while. It’s massive compared to the others with really wide branching. Killed it today with some other girls I wasn’t keeping.

You can see my starter trays for the SyrianLeb and Longmont Purple Haze (back right). For the LPH, I’m going to probably prioritize the shorter ones and hope to find something really hazey.

The SL are going to get grown until I can sex them and decide on structure. Then I’ll test them as well.

[Herbie]

@lefthandseeds

It’s a super easy automation drip system, and since it only drips when the plants feed, there’s no fussing with schedules. Perfect every time.

So your float switch is in the yellow (collector) bucket and shuts down when the run-off reaches it. I like that. Elegant

[lefthandseeds]

Yep! I put the float switch to a relay, so it switches the pump automatically. When the pots dry out, it wicks the runoff and activates the switch. I put a half inch of perlite in the bottom of my pots and I try to get the liquid level at somewhere in the perlite.

The main advantages are that you get the wet dry cycle, but also your pots never go fully dry. The plants determine their schedule. Also it’s a top feed system, which I think is generally superior.

To run a flush, you just drain the bottom liquid, and then it’ll trigger it to drip to runoff.

I tend to add a little more perlite for more aeration and faster cycles. I’ve been running it full time for about a year and a half now, and now I’m getting my 4x4 tent converted over. It’s a great system that’s almost too easy to use.

I had a thread going on it over here

A hybrid hydroponic / hempy bucket idea

I’ve decided that recirculating systems aren’t all they’re cracked up to be. Currently I’m running an ebb and flow pot system, standard flood and drain with hydroton, and previously, I was growing in coco with drain to waste. Initially, I had thought that reusable media would keep my costs low, and that with a recirculating nutrient solution, it would save on water and nutrients. While this is partially true, I am underwhelmed by the water savings (because you have to regularly change the reser…

[drgreensleeves]

What’s the difference in the SxLeb #1 and #2 ? Thanks

[lefthandseeds]

Those are just the 2 different parents I kept seeds from. There’s two main phenos in the Syrian line, one squat and more branchy. The other more like a pole.

[drgreensleeves]

Do you remember which is which ? And do they all including the Leb finish the same? Or is there quite a bit of variation? Thanks

[lefthandseeds]

I’ll have to dig out my packs to know. I don’t think you’ll really notice much difference between them honestly. I think it would take a lot of work to breed them into a single pheno.

Most of the variation will be phenos between the Syrian and the different Lebanese in there. Earliest will be as low as 42 days and latest will be around 54.

[Hemp]

Looking good.

[drgreensleeves]

Is there a way to tell without testing if a male is high CBD/THC? If not how much are those tests? Thanks

[lefthandseeds]

I think the tests are about $175 for the 20-25 test kit. You run them 4-5 at a time on a single plate. The refill kits are cheaper because you already have the pipette.

I don’t know how else to test for cbd. I’ve only just learned these kits can do males. I think that’s pretty cool.

[drgreensleeves]

@lefthandseeds wow these are fast! Like 2.5 days on a wet paper towel and they were busting out of their shells lol thank you again for the opportunity to work with some of your work I am very grateful and appreciative PS oh and 29/34 but the others might still go I cracked them and put them in a cup as well hopefully they will pop up if not it’s ok I’m very grateful

[lefthandseeds]

They’re a lively bunch, and they flower fast! Hopefully you get the others to pop. You should get a number of phenos and chemotypes in those F1.

They’re nice to grow, and the bud is very kind. It’s practically all I smoke.

[drgreensleeves]

Are they a 50/50 split on drug type and med type? Or more like 70/30 THC/CBD phenos ? Or is it just kinda random lol well regardless my buddy who lives down the street used to work a CBD farm for like 2 years and he says he can smell CBD and pick them out ! Lol hey I know it sounds crazy but he has not lied to me before and I don’t think he’s going to start now so I believe him it just seems… Difficult lol

[lefthandseeds]

Probably more like 70/30, but I’m more used to growing later generations where I’ve done selections. I mostly get drug type now.

[lefthandseeds]

I found some pistils off the main stems of two males. Only the back right is pistil free still. Uncertain about what I’m going to do next… if the last male pops some pistils, I might just inbreed and take another selection rather than outcrossing.

The Longmont purple haze (bottom plants in the picture with seedlings) are really taking off. I pissed everything off when I did the transplant. I think my water level wasn’t high enough, but the roots eventually found water.

[lefthandseeds]

@deeez99 I’m probably going to do a leaf test pretty soon. Do you follow the regular instructions to do the test? 100mg leaf matter? And do you dry it first like you would with flower?

[deeez99]

Hey that’s awesome to hear and yes for the most part the regular instructions should be followed. The main difference is that I found I needed to allow the leaf matter to sit in the extraction solvent longer than the suggested 2 min otherwise the colors are just barely visible. I’ve been waiting up to 10 minutes I think for the last tests that I posted. I also shake a few extra times during that period. I do think the two minute time frame works well for flowers though.

I found if the leaf is fully dried it’s easier to crush up into the test tube. But the test has still worked for me when the leaf was not fully dried even after the 50 min decarb @ 240°F. I think having the crushed leaves also allows better surface area coverage with the solvent.

Edit: I don’t measure the leaf matter any more, I have just been filling the 1.5ML tube to just under 3/4 of the way.

The only other tips I found that you may have already read about is that after the mobile phase is complete, let the plate dry pretty well before dipping it into the dye otherwise the colors can get splotchy.

Then after it’s been dipped in the dye allow that to dry pretty thoroughly and then scan it right away as you will notice after a couple days the results on the plate will run and degrade quite a bit, they are not really meant to be kept.

Excited to see your results and any other adjustments you might find for improvement. Good luck!

Edit: Forgot to ask if you ended up getting a Micropipette? After a few rounds I finally purchased one and feel silly for not getting it in the first place as it’s so much easier to work with. Apologies if I had previously neglected to mention that.