Is that C99 cross available on any bean site?
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Too be fair both tomato and cannabis have very similar NPK requirements. You can grow excellent bud using tomato food alone 
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Oh, I am not anywhere near discouraged…no worries there! I am learning every step of the way.
I have a nice ph tester but I think it may have died on me 
I have another one on the way. Definitely want to make sure I am starting with the right water (using my municipal tap water…should be close to ok I think)
Also, a question about my ppm…i just have a cheapo ebay tester. I am reading a bit over 500 in my bucket of plain water. Is this normal?
If not, what should I be seeing?
Thanks
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As far as books…i have the old classic marijuana growers guide that I bought back in 1990.
Will check out the jorge cervantes one as well
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Push the PhD water through the pot. Collect the run off and check both the pH and ppm it gives you. I suspect the ppm is to high and it’s effecting the pH.
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Check that EC measurer with distilled water, should be around 0.5 ppm. That tap water is real hard if it’s working right, prefertilized soil + hard tap water + amendments means too much food at that early stage, a gate to problems … 
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Too much food means the pH swings
I know fine well his plant can’t uptake the nutrients as the high ppm has pushed the pH out of range. Get the runoff pH to around 5.8 - 6.2 and the plant will start to respond positively and uptake the nutrients BUT the ppm is high so will likely cause nutrient burn on the tips. Honestly. Both a pH meter and ppm/e.c meter is 100% required to grow cannabis “efficiently” 
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Coming from RIU? Now I understand some attitudes, happy new year …
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Tact is a thing a lot of people don’t possess. Some people think they know everything but they don’t. More so me. I know from experience what’s going on here. The op can take my advice if he wants but it’s no big thing to me if they don’t. I’ve had just about every issue happen to me over the years and most if not all came down to my pH 
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Good advice round these parts its really hard to diagnose problems with only half the info. It could be 1 major thing or 5 little things . Environment is so critical for optimum growth. If u have perfect environment but pots are sitting on a cold basement floor you can chase your tail until summer .
Get yourself some ph testing solution unless you spend decent money on a decent ph meter . I bought 3 ebay 20$ specials calibrating daily, ph all over the place . They are almost useless . I didn’t know this until I spent the money on a good meter (blulab).
The ph solution is cheap and accurate enough for your purpose .
Soil looks like its not airy enough couple cups of perlite really helps but needs to be done at transplant
If I only get couple questions I want to know the temp/humidity of the canopy and floor lights on and off . Humidity plays a major role in a plants life.
When they were up potted ,what did roots look like? Is it all the plants or just 1 .
Keep notes when growing its hard to remember everything
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Exactly what I would expect to see in a plant that needs new shoes
So op was doing something correct
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Here is the link to get Jorge’s book via pdf,
https://oiipdf.com/download/marijuana-horticulture-the-indoor-outdoor-medical-growers-bible
It works as I have downloaded it. There is a mention of the original Overgrow on page 8.
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Fortunately OG in not a place “my dick is bigger than yours” 
, so certain answers and statements written on stone don’t match with the general ambience. I am not in possession of truth, just suggest what may be happening and OP may judge and chose between all the options exposed in this thread.
That’s the way it works and the way it should be, demonstrating why you think your answer is valid and not attacking other opinions to make yours prevalent …
Edit: BTW, I do grow tomatoes 
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Kwik Seeds.
I did a backcross of the original I bought from Heaven’s Stairway many years ago. Seeds still germed after about 20 years of storage. Genetics are stable. Plants looked like clones.
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Please rember this: “once you see a plant issue you are ALL ready two (2) weeks behind in fixing it !!”
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Yes they do, reason why I brought it up. I have never used a cannabis specific food, and won’t start now. I am well versed when it comes to plant nutrition and soil chemistry. 50 years of growing and farming acreage helps. 
I used nothing but Osmocote Indoor-Outdoor Plus on a recent C99 garden. Grew fine and the taste is fruity with a smooth smoke, just like the original. This is the lowest price I’ve seen it. It’s a complete 15-9-12 with micros, 5 month feed on average. Amazon.com : osmocote plus outdoor and indoor smart-release plant food
Other high quality foods are Dyna-Gro and some Peters blends.
Whether hydro or soil if you understand what makes a plant tick you can grow a weed. Where noobies get off is listening to all the advice in these forums (“what I heard” stuff) and applying the wrong thing at the wrong time for the condition of the plant. Only a good solid book like Mel Frank’s and experience will get you where you want to go.
Give you an example, folks are quick to recommend epsom salts claiming they see a Mg deficiency. Doesn’t matter what forum or when, that’s what they do. A Mg deficiency manifests itself with a very overall pale yellow leaf color beginning with the lower leaves and working its way up if not corrected.
pH measurement? The proper way to measure pH is to take a sample of soil (amount doesn’t matter), dump some in a clean jar, add de-ionized lab grade water (not tap, not distilled), shake well, let settle a bit and stick your probe in using a recently calibrated pH meter. The meter calibration should have been done with fresh lab grade calibrating solution. You can water your fave and measure the last of the runoff of your saturated soil but it won’t be as accurate.
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I read your threads over at rollitup lol. Thanks for lacing me up with game. What do you think about high quality leds and how cannabis needs extra magnesium when growing with them? Most strains grown under quality leds produce anthocyanin that make it look like a phosphorus deficiency because of the far red spectrum. Your thoughts?
And what do you think about the hops latent viroid plaque going on in the growing community today? Have you ever had it in your garden?
Sorry for hijacking thread op
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This is true. Tomato’s are similar in nature but different species with different needs.
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If you’ve been growing for a while then you might have a hang of “reading your plants”.
Question, did the folks saying your plants under LED’s need more Mg do a tissue analysis to confirm that? Of course not. As I wrote a Mg deficiency manifests its self at the lower leaves. Like the outrageous WOKE movement I think some of these folks need to go to epsom salts de-tox meetings. 
Don’t know about the virus. Being a commercial farmer, greenhouse hobbyist I have a slew of goodies in my toolbox. Get your hands on either Magnabon CS2005 or Phyton 35. I use both on tropical fruit trees like anthracnose on mangos.
They both can be used as soil drenches but Phyton 35 is a better solution. It contains a soil buffer, tannic acid, which is gentle to microbes and the root system. It contains a surfactant, Magnabon does not for foliar apps. https://phytoncorp.com/products-overview/#
Good luck
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I can and do use exactly the same culture on maters as I do on cannabis. Nutrition means they get some thing like Osmocote, watering needs are about the same, so are temps. Sure there are some minor exceptions but general culture is the same.
I saw one thread where this noob went off on some rice hulls and a coco drill, cause he saw someone else doing it. Why they can’t just use conventional, cheap materials is beyond me. This is simple stuff folks, don’t fuck it up with a bunch of crap LOL.
A big bag of good quality potting soil with some additional vermiculite if you want is all you need. This is an excellent start. Rich, pH balanced around 6.2. Can buy it on A.M. Leonard site. Get on their email list and get free shipping offers at times. That’s when I buy 50# bags of stuff.
