This has proven trickier than I thought, but I do think if I keep messing with this method I might end up finding some way to average several measurements in various places to tell if a particular branch is ready to be cured.
The snap test
I used to previously go by the snap test, of which there are many versions. I don’t like this way because it seems wildly subjective and inaccurate, though I admit that it has generally worked for me in the past and I think it is widely used.
However… I had a plant this harvest that failed the snap test, meaning NONE of the smallest stems snapped, BUT when I jarred it and measured RH, it was 42% and dropping.
It is probably relevant to point out that I do a dry trim. So I do a snap test, if it passes I then finish trimming the branch and proceed to cure it.
What method do you personally use to tell if it’s time to cure?
I think I misunderstood when you mentioned this before…
If I get it: you put them in a room where the RH is 60%. Then, after X time you put them into a bag like that and make sure the RH is stable around 60?
Do you do the 60% after you have dried for a while or do you dry at 60% RH right off the bat?
I tend not to think of it as drying per se. More like finding an equilibrium.
I start out at 60. If your room is at 60 your bud won’t go below 60.
I figure it’s impossible to overdry this way. If anything the bag is to make sure it’s still not too wet to go into jars.
I figure around 7 days or so, but again, it doesn’t really matter because it the room is at 60 it’s the same as being in the jars at 60.
The thought process is something like - “ok these have been hanging for awhile they’ve probably balanced out at 60 but let’s check with the bag just to be safe.”
I’ve had one of those wood moisture meters in my Amazon wish list for a while now. I’ve heard there are different settings, and you have to chose the right one, but I forget which one.
I’ve always just guessed with a stem snap. But that’s a hard thing to describe and definitely not very predictable.
A water activity meter would be the ultimate, but they are not cheap around $700 USD.
thats not going to do it unfortunately. you would need a water activity meter.
two ways I find people dry are:
first 20hrs leave in dark with dehumidifier (as low humidity as possible) and then after those 20-24hrs, bump the RH to 50% and leave for about 7 days, or
leave in dark from the begging drying at 50%-60% for 7-10 days.
how you can make sure sure? only with a water activity meter, but thats not truly needed - you can bite into it a bit and see if how moist. You can also put them in jars with hygrometers and check that they dont go above 60%, if they do you need to take them out and leave drying until they stay stable with burping the jars (you can also assist yourself with boveda packs).
If you wanna be absolutely sure you won’t get mold in your jars then you can decarb first.
In an oven or “sous vide” for 3 hours at 100 degrees Celsius.
do you that from the beginning or after an initial drying period? whats it like (ive heard flash drying in oven makes it taste weird, but never done it)?
Best done after drying.
But I’ve done it fresh too, then you gotta wipe off the condensation from the lid every 10 minutes or so. With the last batch the buds were so dense they were still kinda moist when finished.
So I let it all sit in a paper bag for a couple of days and then it was bone dry.
I hang dry until everything is crispy on the outside yet a little squishy whilst applying pressure to the bud, then I jar it all. And take each batch out then let it have some fresh air and back into the jar, or I dry it to a dry moist level and throw it all in a turkey bag. It tends to cure up nicely doing that.
It obviously depends to a large degree on your harvest. I did 3 plants last fall, when it was all dried (14 days in a dark attic) I did the “bag test” and was at 62%, close enough.
I had about 42oz…so no jars for me. And that came from maybe 50 branches?
To test each branch?..I’d still be testing
Just Grow It,
Lob
p.s. I think determining the state of the trichomes is much more critical.
So reading Ed Rosenthal’s Marijuana Harvest book and other post on OG. I dry in tent at 68-70F & RH 55 to 60 for a few days then bring down the RH to around 50 and hold for around a week or so. I keep a dim night light in the tent as this helps keep the mold from forming. Mold can form in RH 55 and higher, the light helps with this. This has worked for me so fare, so I’ll guess I’ll keep doing it this way for now.
Ps. After this then the bud goes to jar for a month or so or until I can’t stand it no more and have to start smoking the yummys.
This is a really interesting way to think about it.
I think maybe I could keep the room 60% RH and then actually have some airflow going. Currently I close everything up in a closet and the temps and humidity stay right around 50% RH and 70 degrees F.
With 60% I might worry about mold, but not if can also run a circulation fan.
I like the idea of your method because you can do it by the numbers. The number of days is maybe based on temperature Since RH is relative to that. (and maybe plant density)
I actually think I could get your method to work for testing grove bags…
The only difference in my setup is that I hang the whole plant, so I would either have to chop branches for the bag test OR find something big enough to put the whole plant in…
I can’t remember: Do you dry trim or wet trim?
I usually take the fans off when wet, then do the rest after drying.
I do use a circulation fan but the room is sealed. I even taped over the vents. The fan is just for a little movement. Not blasting the buds or anything.
I wet trim.
I’ve heard of people going 40% for the first two days for fear of mold and then up to 60 for the remainder but I don’t do it that way.
Honestly though my humidifier doesn’t even usually kick in until day 2-3 because the buds push a lot of moisture into the air.
?
Since RH is relative to that. (and maybe plant density)