What’s my problem with this yellowing

She’s spotting brown. Should I just pull this one?

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humidity at 81 is a little high…keep that exhaust fan running 24/7 fella…and keep the osc fan circulating air in room but not directly on plants…humidity needs to drop down a tad…in fact more than a tad…lolol…try to get that humidity down sooner rather than later.!no do not pull it…leave it be…lower your humidity the best way you can…keep that exhaust fan running regardless of anything.

Better?

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Feels like it’s slipping

there you go…lolol…I would imagine it dropping further as time progresses…just pay attn to your wet dry cycles and once you have set what you need to, try not to over mother them…
what size are the seedling pots and how much are you watering at this stage?

3g fabric lots and was watering once a day then every other. Honestly hard to tell how moist they are as coco runs deep. There a tool to test? Right now some leaves feel super dry but I’m scared to water. Do I pull my spotted plant or let it go still?

The red stems what should I do

now what I will say is coir is not my strong point as I haven’t grown that medium before…you are going to need someone who runs that medium and knows what there doing to step in…I honestly thought it was soil by the looks…lolol…shows how much I pay attn…and tbf I rarely reach out to help others as in the past I’ve done this and given advice and 2 many other members step in contradicting that advice and you the grower get confused in what your doing and in the end just pick a quote from someone that might help and it doesn’t… I want to help you as you seem like a nice lad but my field and experience in that medium is unknown and I shouldnt really comment with suggestion…not about medium anyway…lol…anything else though is OK…keep your exhaust constantly running at all times…do not put that osc fan in tent trained on the younguns…have it circulating air within the grow in close area to them…the coco lads I will imagine help you along the way with questions on media…but try not to mother and panic too much…asking loads of questions and getting multiple answers will end up tiring you out!!

3 gallon pot sizes for seedlings that size is to big…and maybe attributable to why you have visual signs of lockout…but it doesn’t look critical.you really need one coco member to try guide you through how to correctly grow in that stuff…and there is an army of them here…patience will be rewarded young man.

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I may switch to soil. I only got coco because it was recommended at shop. I’m sure they have good soil option too

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I think you’ll have an easier experience in soil personally…and get the best soil you can possibly afford with perlite already added…I use biobizz allmix and there are many alternatives out there to try…research organic composts and soil and choose wisely.!!!


This is rule of thumb that visualize what is safe zone.

In addition, plants grow better in high temp high humid.
Idk why people think lower humid makes plants grow faster. It is literally all the other way around. You may want to lower humidity in the every end of two weeks of your flowering as you cannot steer the peat moss or your type of substrate due to physical and chemical characterstics.

Also active air treatment is needed in indoor chambers to increase convection energy. That is about it. Nothing more.
However, when plants are physically small, exhaust fans are often too extreme.

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If the concern with high humidity is about botrytis (mold) or so, you don’t have to worry about it with 25’C and 81% humid.
You can worry once it’s constantly hitting above 85% RH.

Even in later flowering, plants become susceptible on botrytis or disease when plants lose assimilation balance or when flower overlaps each other.
Unless then high humid does not provoke botrytis or disease.

Hope this clear out.

And again, plants grow faster in high temp, high humid. Not the other way around.

Your tight internode is caused by low humidity or low temp. In your case, low humid. and the tight internode only means lower yield. So if I were you i would prefer them to have stretchier structure as well.

If you have a controller, you can set the fan to run at 80% humid and stop running at 77% humid.

If you have to change manually you can just leave it at 80% humid.

Also, your temp is the second key factor for energy input in your plants. So if you run exhaust 24/7 you basically throwing away energy as that energy vents out instead of being used for plants.

Hope those explains help why i recommend such a way to deal within your situation.

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Running exhaust 1min every 20 better me a 77% humidity. Still having issues reading new foliage. I haven’t watered yet and am going to skip so again praying these droopy leaves lift? If I touch bottom of fabric pots they are all saturated and wet. Good dry. But I still have 3-4 plants w bad dropping leaves. Two plants w light spotting in leaves and red to the stem on most. I can only assume the sagging leaves is overwater?

The short plant issue I was going to ask today. Actually just took some photos to show as the nodes were so tight as you said.m

Really hoping I won’t have to chop half this garden.

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One thing I also did today was spread the cloth pots out to give space on all sides between them. I had them all smashed together so in theory moisture could wick from one to the other and they had no airflow. Probably wasn’t a good idea so I fixed that

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As long as you have enough time, can bring them back and will be all good

Those sagging leaves can be both low water availability and high.
And those crinkled leaves are 100% sign of water imbalance, meaning water input to plants and output are not equivalent. Especially, an exhaust fan and direct wind to young plants often give morphological disorder to stomata that leaves start looking crinckled.

And possibly high water retention in pot can be problem.

So the best bet is

First we minimize any extreme factor such as exhaust fans. I would have better idea with vent strategy once I know the tent size and fan speed.

Second we give enough radiation energy (light) so plants can transpirate (evaporate) more and uptake water actively (to keep root active and avoid rootrot from overwatering).
Without any light intensity measuring equipment, you can see how purple your petiole and stem are, especially petiole in case of cannabis.
This purpling is not a phosphorus deficiency but starch (sugar or assimilation accumulation; sugar is made through photosynthesis so sugar accumulation mean alot of photosynthesis occurred). So you can increase the light intensity if all your plants have straight up green petiole. However, if the purple color in petiole doesn’t become blurr after the night, you may want to lower the light intensity or increase temperature (sugar is used through respiration, thus during the night purple color become blurr as plants don’t photosynthesis but still respirate)

Lastly and the most importantly, after the first two steps, we have to make sure stomata are in good form to transpirate. Otherwise, plants cannot regulate it’s own temperature well enough.

There are few driving factors on supporting stomata. One of way is increasing water availability. The higher water availability provides more water in guard cell, making the guard cell to bend like an arrow. Guard cell is literally a door for stomata. So you can imagine how low humidity disturbs stomata to keep stay open.
There are some other factors to consider too but will focus on relevant topic to your situation.

With this three steps with little extra understanding in rootzone management, I can guarantee you’ll never ever encounter the same problem for your rest of the life.

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Tent 4x4 with 6” ax infnity fan on speed 1 for 1 minute every 30 minute cycle

So your fan is about 400 cfm (about 680 cubic meter per hour). If you use 100% power, even once in 30min will harm plants at this point.

Your grow tent is about 1.2 x 1.2 x 2 meter, being 2.88 cubic meter.
Running your fan at max speed for one minute will be 11.33 cubic meter per hour of air circulation.
That means you recirculate air in the tent about 4 times (11.33/2.88).

So first of all 25% of fan speed is enough to fully circulate air in your grow tent.

In addition, fully recirculating the air isn’t necessary. You just loss temperature with full circulation. Thus, running 1min with 10% or lowest fan speed you can provide will be the safe bet.

Final recommendation on ventilation fan & relative humidity control.
As you have a superior fan, I believe you can automatically control humidity. Temperature sensor on your fan is pointless at the moment so don’t set any thing. Humidity sensor is essential. Set to run the fan if humidity over 80% and stop running at 77%. However, make sure your fan is on the lowest power. If your fan cannot be dimmed down below 10% of your max speed. Just don’t use it for now.

If you feel tropical in your growtent, warm and humid, you may feel wrong but that’s what exactly your plants love the most. We just don’t want that in during late flowering as that decrease the flower quality but veg and early flower stage are different story to late flowering.

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Can be too much info. Might be confusing.

But I tried to explain a whole thing in short paragraphs so you can visualize the idea behind this actions, overtime of your grow experience as well as other new growers who are reading this.

This is exact how it’s been setup. Can speed “1” of “10” turns on for only 1 minute every 30.

I tried the humidity setting to turn on only at 75 RH but wouldn’t get that high. I’ll try that again after work but for now it’s programmed to 1 min on lowest setting 30min off

That is nice! Finger crossed.

I did not understand that 1 of 10 thing. With my fan, fan speed is manually changed so once i set 10% it’s 10% until i manually change myself.

Oh and not sure if I understood correctly but if your fan works according to humidity setting and also once in every 30mins, just make a fan run according to humidity, no once every 30mins.
So when humidity doesn’t reach 80, it does not run the fan.
Humidity rise more than room RH as plants transpirate so running fan even before they are actively working will stress plants.

Only start consider running once in every 30mins or smth like that when temperature is going above 28.