Oh sweet I didn’t realized you had a just established a pot … I believe they almost eat their weight in food a day under ideal conditions so a pound of worms will equal almost a pound of cast a day.
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So I had one in the garage from last fall, added a shitload of new guys to it not long ago, and just sorted thru it today to split it up a bit bc we have a lot of food to add.
Anyways, thanks again, I’m sure I’ll be back on track pretty quickly!
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Saw a couple houseflies in the grow last night & this morning. I’m hoping that’s the extent of any bugs that I get from my own EWCs… Hoping ive got the predatory mites to help take care of gnats.
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Yeah i wouldnt press n at week 5+ they dont look bad. Usually only tging i do is bump up calmag when yellow in flower starts. Usually its mag def. They eat up mag in flower. Epsom salt. They love that sulphur right now too. But as said above they look to have enough to push to finishing if its an 8-9wk strain.
Do you think I am having the same issue? It is late flowering and I have been giving CalMag regularly but shortened the Grow bottle (Advanced Nutrients), could it be N deficiency? Thanks … 
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Yours looks a bit different than mine did, I was kind of fading all over. That looks like something other than N.
With how dark green the entire leaf is I’d think youd get more widespread yellowing first if it was N.
I’d look into Mg deficiencies based on other photos like that ive seen.
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Imo opinion your kinda of messing with your plants buy giving them two types of feeding styles organic chelates verses organic nutes that need to be chelated by microbes ? one has to remember the plant is in charge of what it needs when it needs it once ya understand that concept growing gets easier ,more than likely it may be just that one or two phenotypes that may be a little more finicky than others of the same strain . Ph is always fluctuating in the rhizosohere so when one forces feeds it upsets the balance and it shows in your plants that’s why I’m not big on bottled nutes at all organic or synthetic otherwise .
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@Tinytuttle appreciate the follow up and I’m working towards full LOS, but ive got this situation with my water I’m trying to solve for. Very hard- ppm of 450-500 and it goes thru a softener. So if I understand that correctly that means the Ca in the soil has been replaced w Na. Or a lot of it has. So ive got high ppms w a big component of salt and high ph.
Is the solution just simply- get my water from before the softener so I’m just dealing w the higher concentration of Ca in the water? And the microbes if done correctly will sort out the rest for me? I hear LOS guys talking about not needing to ph, and I get that if the h2o is decent, but in my case the h2o sucks so I get the sense I need to be doing something there.
If the solution is that simple, I know what i need to do to my plumbing, and i could be really close to being ready to go with a 45 or 60 gal bed rather than 7 gal pots…
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That’s a great question I don’t know to much about water systems my self … I have one but the water is polished ( SODIUM is removed before it hits the facet best bet would be to get a test to see what the water is testing for high N.A. Iv dealt with water high in carbonates and bicarbonate and never had issues watering house plants .
Just figure out what’s going on with the water system before taking on a Huge plumbing project … is there a lot of limestone in the area that’s a main cause of hard waters like it is over in Britain I only know this cause Iv duplicated their waters for making that style of beer over there .
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I would carefully foliar feed some proper nutes., there is no faster way to green up a plant… I’d mix up some GH 3 part 3/2/1 at a EC of 1.5 and give the plants a spray… don’t soak the buds as much as the leaves… I have a good environment and mold is not a issue for me…
You definitely want pre-softened tapwater.
Water with a lot of calcium is vastly preferable to water with a lot of sodium. Salty (sodium) soils actually get gypsum added to try to replace it just to get plants to even grow. Very few plants are sodium tolerant, that’s why there’s essentially none in the ocean or near it.
Dyna Gro is 2% calcium, makes it ideal for hard water since similar products like Maxi Gro are 5% calcium. By contrast, Dyna Gro is only 0.1% sodium. It is a necessary plant nutrient but needed in tiny amounts.
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Can you set up some way to collect rain water from a gutter or something then you don’t have to worry about nasty water especially if you are organic.
So yeah, I know whats going on, we sit on top of a ton of limestone. In fact, there are multiple quarries within a few miles, and known areas where the limestone bedrock is only an inch or 2 below the surface. For some dumb reason the community I live in felt it better to have community wells rather than tap into the Lake Michigan water all the surrounding communities have!
And yeah, easy plumbing project actually. Line comes into the basement, immediately goes to an outside spigot, the only water in the house we bypass the softener on. The line runs right past the utility sink, then into the softener right next to the sink. That spigot split overwinter so I need to replace it already, I could run a new line directly to my utility sink when I replace the spigot.
I was wondering about foliars. Gonna try this w some age old kelp I have right now. That or I’ll check to see if its ok to foliar w biobizz. The original post was in reference to some other plants but now i have a different problem related to overwatering, fungus gnats, and root bound, severly yellow flowering plants. Foliar coming for them tonight!
I’m assuming that’s the case, havent had the water analyzed but like I said above, I can likely bypass the softener pretty easy.
Yes, thats the obvious #1 for me to do when it’s warm. My reluctance is pulling the downspouts and how they’re buried bc of the amount of water that comes thru the yard when it rains. We were just looking at where to put a rain barrel yesterday, but the only way that’ll fly is if my overflow on the barrel is locktight and goes right into the buried pipes the gutters are connected to. Otherwise my sump wont handle any more water and my basment will flood. Last weekend i had a river coming thru the yard bc of where we sit relative to our neighbors and the sheer volume of surface run off coming into and thru our property.
So thanks all for the pointers. Need to make some decisions on what to do w my water and really get my head right about the LOS and stop reverting back to the quick chemical crutch when theres a problem!
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do not foiler with organics… that would be a huge mistake… you will feed the mould but not the plant… I would only foiler with salt based fertilizers… not organic based.
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