Looks like it too! At least those toots are going the right direction. 
Edit: Lol… Roots
2 Likes
Looks lovely. Was lucky enough to visit The Big Island ~15 years ago. Seems like the tourism issues there have gotten even worse, so it doesn’t seem right going any more, or at least that’s what I hear.
Good luck out there! I personally use Ocean Forest for flowering/adult plants only, as it usually seems too hot for seedlings. I prefer Happy Frog for starting seeds. Maybe worth a try next run?
2 Likes
Appreciate the input. I had heard that about using FF for the root cube to dixie cup but not for the dixie to grow pot. I have another run of seedling right now to make choices about.
Hawai’i Island especially on Hilo side is a much different vibe than Kona side or the visitor heavy islands of Oahu, Kauai and Maui.
From singing bridge in Hilo to Waimea nearly 60 miles there is not a stop sign or traffic light. It is slow and easy here, visit with aloha and don’t rush from one photo op to the next is what I tell people.
3 Likes
Time for some serious Picture Update Therapy! Welcome to my little CannaBaby family.
Top view of plant #2. The seedling with the curly pig tail is still the runt of the litter but is still growing a second node although tiny is making an appearance. Two more are stretching out to meet the full spectrum LED flame.
This be the pig tail runt…probly best to let this on go untrained
Number 4 has a great looking second node(?)
I found a great read read on the @BU2B Pound Per Plant (PPP) training technique and I’ll dive deeper into it today during hockey viewing and between songs on guitar. I’ve been advised to maximize the airflow through these plants to lower the chance of mold & rot. It gets a little humid here sometimes! LoL
By for now,
t
9 Likes
Your greenhouse is GREAT . I could live in there. 🥸
3 Likes
Hey @TARpits, one of our OG Experts @JoeCrowe wrote the definitive thread on White Powdery Mold (WPM).
Definitely worth a read since you’ll likely confront this menace down the road.
You might want to Gear Up in advance.
Cheers,
-Grouchy 
5 Likes
@Magu I should post a photo of the hens house 
we scored with our place here it was all built out and ready to inhabit
2 Likes
heh heh the nuclear death cloud aka sulfur is in the house!
4 Likes
Great article and a fun read, comments even more fun!
I will be adding this to the arsenal. Over the few years I have been here, and the limited regular food crops I have tried to, and succeeded in growing here the PWM attacked the nightshade and tomato crops hard. Tried all the regimes that an internet search suggested to no avail, I am all in for this during vegetative state. As with most everything time will give me a clearer picture as the grow.
3 Likes
I started @JoeCrowe’s WPM thread and will finish it tonight…
The local grow shop has this sulfur product. They also suggest Zymes. PWM is a real problem in the Islands.
Here’s a callout to my Brahs and Wahine at the HIlo Grow Shop
Bonide Sulfur Fungicide
Micronized sulfur spray or dust for control of fungal diseases on fruits, vegetables and ornamentals Super fine particle size gives better coverage, adhesion and disease control Contains Sulfur (90%)
Price: USD 12.99
The little plants look fine today. Visibly larger each day.
3 Likes
Hola Mano,
OK, you asked about @bu2b’s Pound Per Plant training technique, and I told you that I knew a little bit about that. So, let’s discuss the PPP.
Happily, your plants are approaching the exact time when you need to make the crucial first topping.
So, today your plants look like this:
And in two or three weeks you want to have created this:
And here’s how @BU2B does it, reduced to the essentials, and adapted for Autoflower plants :
LAYING THE GROUNDWORK - part three
There are really only two exceptions to my standard method.
• Plants are grown out as quads
• Plants are only topped onceI top between nodes 3 and 4.
** cotyledon*
** single fingered leaf and growth - removed .node 1*
** tri - fingered leaf .node 2 set*
** three-5 fingered leaf .node 3 set*
** allow to grow out as needed then remove .node 4 upward*As soon as your plant has 4 nodes; not including cotyledon get prepared for your first and ONLY topping. Once your plant grows out enough and the sooner the better - top your plant between nodes 3 and 4.
Nodes 2 and 3 will become your 4 main branches
Plant structure to start should look like a + when viewed from the top.
24 flowering growth tips in 28 days using my PPP Method adopted for Autos. By the time the girls end Week 5 they should have about 48 flowering growth tips and be about 12 inches in diameter - with only 1 topping.
With permission from @bu2b, here’s a link to the PPP method PDF file. Please respect his download conditions:
> ••BEFORE•• you click the link to download the file you should be aware of the following:
*> *
> * The PDF was compiled from my postings on another grow site -
> * IF that is an issue or a problem DO NOT download the file
> * The PDF DOES contain links to another grow site
> * AGAIN - IF this is an issue or problem DO NOT download the file
*> *
> With that out of the way; the info is released into the Public Domain and ALL requirements for distribution are contained within the document itself.
Here’s the link:
Your plants are prolly showing the third node by now, you need to crop as node four emerges. Are you ready?
-Grouchy GrandPa
4 Likes
And here’s way to crop the second plant for better airflow @TARpits :
(Hat tip to @LoveDaAutos for the use of these quotes. Everyone interested should check his highly informative thread)
"A couple days ago I topped the HBMS plant [at the 5th node] and she took to it beautifully. This evening I did some leaf tucking together with some rerouting of a couple branches. Here are a couple few pics. Of course like I usually do I forgot to take a before picture. Now typically the bottom branches would be gone if I were just growing the plant to grow the plant for flowers. But since I am growing it to make some seeds I leave all the bottom branches on and will hope to make most of my seeds from those bottom branches leaving the top of the plant to produce usable flowers.
This next picture I think is more of a closeup of the plant showing how the branches are redirected to try to give them space / room as the plant gets larger.
To restrain the branches I use regular wooden skewers you can buy at Walmart or the grocery store. The green is that bendable wire with the rubber coating on the outside of it. If you use smaller pots that aren’t as doop you have to cut the skewers shorter. They hold very well and do a great job. "
7 Likes
Aloha,
Great closeups and info on the training programs. Skewers and coated wire will be added to my list of items to procure.
It seems my plants are putting a lot of energy into rooting out.
The 3rd node is just now peeking out. I will grab photos this evening and share for tomorrow morning. I have been reading and noting and thinking about all I have to do.
Here is where we stand as of today.
Getting ready to transplant to their final pots. his is what I have for pots.
I will prepare the pots this afternoon upon my return from town and tai chi. Anyone have hints or tips?
I’m just starting to think about getting out of bed and having a caffeine.
7 Likes
Great info guys. Keep it coming. 🥸
2 Likes
A few months too late… I gave away all my stuff to a neighbor.
Try ‘Nursery Things’
https://maps.app.goo.gl/EEqoHVkzwca1HX7E9?g_st=i
Got 100 pack of pots for around 55$ish if I remember right
Probably have something of Hamakua way but dunno 
Fabric pots work GREAT in Hawaii
5 Likes
Everyone has their own way of making the critical transplant into a final pot, since you asked, here’s my technique.
You are using 3 gallon plastic pots right? Here’s a hard sided pot prepared for a run. The extra holes add a little more air to reach the roots and help avoid over watering. The small holes around the top rim are used for training tie downs as the plant grows.
I’d suggest you prepare your pots something like this, Fill it up with good soil amended with nutes and lightened up with a little extra perlite if needed. .
Then you should use @Jetdro’s Turbo Transplant method to give your roots a head start. First bury an empty cup with lots of drain holes as a place holder in your soil. The cup should be same size as your plant is currently in.
The day before transplanting, you fill the placeholder cup with water + mild nutes and let it drain straight down through the soil. Also very lightly water the plastic cup with your plant in it. Just enough to hold the soil together.
On transplant day, remove the empty cup then tamp down the soil around your plant to compress it a bit. Put the stem between your fingers, press the soil down and turn the whole thing upside down. Squeeze the sides of the cup and press the bottom, until the soil releases the entire plant & soil from the cup into your hand.
In one smooth and confident Kung Fu move turn the root ball over and slide it into the hole. Don’t panic if it falls apart a bit, just get it into the hole and tamp down the soil around it ensuring there are no air pockets.
Water a bit around a circle at the leaf tips, tamp the dampened soil a bit more.… And, You’re Done!
Make sense?
-Grouchy
5 Likes
7 Likes
Well here is what I have for plant health. The sulfur was recommended by Kekai at the Hilo grow shop as a preventative measure against powdery mildew, the same as the regime recommended by @JoeCrowe.
I mentioned this is my first grow with help from some experienced growers. He was helpful and encouraged me to get a quality ph meter. He mentioned that once you start adding chemistry the colors of the h2o change, so mo betta to have a meter than color coded testing kits.
Bonus good news: I ordered a second ViparSpectra XS 1500 Pro and they say the light has shipped. That should give great coverage as these plants stretch out.
4 Likes
True, however PH meters tend to be a little ‘sly’ and can covertly drift.
The drops can be a quick & cheap ‘sanity’ check.
For a first grow you are off to an excellent start! 
Cheers
G
7 Likes
So I asked Grouchy how he kept track of his grow scheduling and he sent me a spreadsheet filled in with the details and estimated dates for my grow!
“I started the countdown on 1/14/23 with the first sign of green leaves. I also tweaked a couple of the formulas near harvest. That leaves us with this timeline and a projected late March harvest:”
| Elapsed Weeks FromSprout | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Strain | WidowMaker @Repins12 | White Widow x AK47 autoflower | |
| Sown | 1/11/2024 | Soaked for 24 hours in water, then into Rapid Rooters under a misted dome. No heat mat necessary. | |
| Broke Ground | 1/14/2024 | Seeds popped and the first cotyldon leaves above ground. | |
| Transplant | 1/16/24 | 0.3 | Roots appear out of the rooter cubes, transplant into 6oz clear cups with potting soil. Bottom watered under LED, 100-200 PPFD 18/6 lighting from seed. |
| Transplant to final | 1/26/24 | 1.7 | 3 gal w FFOF soil, no amendments. |
| PPP 1st top & trim | 2/6/24 | 3.3 | Top two plants at the fourth node for PPP training, top the other two at the sixth node for mainlining. #2 first topping PPP |
| PPP 2st top & trim | 2/8/24 | 3.6 | #4 topped per @LDA. Plant #1 looking great, Plant #3 struggling |
| Pre-Flower HST/LST done | 2/18/24 | 5.0 | At the first sign of pistilation, we’ll defoliate to increase airflow. Three styles: PPP, LoveDaAutos & Au Natural. Careful monitoring for nute deficiencies, pH, and pests |
| Post Stretch Defoliation | 2/25/24 | 6.0 | Once the stretch is over we’ll defoliate a 2nd time. |
| Flowering | 2/28/24 | 6.4 | Emphasize nutrients and supplements beneficial for fat frosty bud. |
| Nearing Harvest | 3/17/24 | 9.0 | Patience is a virtue, no bud before its time! Trichome Watch in progress. |
| Harvest | 3/27/24 | 10.4 | Bid a tearful farewell then chop em! |
| Dry & Curing (early) | 4/10/24 | 12.4 | 10 days hanging in the dark at 60/60, then buck and bud trim before burping in Ball Jars with Boveda 62. |
| JOY? | Maybe, probably, but at least a whole shit load of learning. | ||
| Learn to make tincture, collect keif, and plan the next grow. |
4 Likes