Bud Sweetman's Barn: Four Autos in the Portland Sunshine

I’ve never grown an auto before, but I’m starting today, courtesy of @LoveDaAutos and his generosity.

Four Mephisto autos in 3 gallon pots. I will likely be finishing them inside in July/August. The plan is to harvest in late August or so, to avoid the Portland rain.

  • 2 HubbaBubbaSmelloScope (HBSS) sativa-leaning for Dad
  • 2 Double Grape (DG) hybrids, for my indica-loving daughter in California

Wish me luck. The big change for this grow will be that I raise my fertilizing game (I’m leaning toward Gaia Green) and start pHing my water regularly.

For now, I pop these today. Then into Solo cups for a few weeks indoors, then into their final 3 gallon fabric pots as they hardened to sun gradually, and then loving the sunshine later this month.

My annual grow plan is below. There is a possible addition that I will be fitting in, but it’s a very long-flowering landrace sativa (thank you, @Upstate) that will be unlike anything else. SO excited for that one, but I need to plan carefully so I can work it around this summer crop and fall. :slight_smile:

2024 Grow Plan
Spring '24 (complete): 2 Barney’s Farm Cheese photos, indoors
Summer break (now): 4 Mephisto autos
Fall '24 (Aug - Dec): TBD, probably Barney’s Acapulco Gold or Amnesia Lemon, indoors

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Pulling up a chair, can’t wait to see what you grow!

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:popcorn: :tv:

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I’ve tried out my first auto recently and was shocked how fast they begin to flower.

I would give it a good eye especially in the early stages as any shock will limit yield. If possible, plant the seed (or just germinated) in final pot. Dial in water/environment and be ready for that transition around 20-30 days. Not much time to train/play around tbh.

I am only speaking from one grow so maybe yours will begin flowering later. Wish you the best!

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Skip the Solo cup phase, maybe. Ok. Yes, I’ve heard I have to be prepared to move fast. Thank you. :slight_smile:

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Not sure if autos take longer outdoors but if the flowering cycle is the same length I would expect you to be harvesting these two plants in the July 18 range.

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You definitely want to skip the solo cup. Autos need their space early if you want them full sized.

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I did the solo cup and transplanted at 10 days and I’m satisfied with the results thus far. Although, if I were to grow again I would put it straight into a 3 or 5 gallon. It is more forgiving with water than a solo cup. I was lucky to have a smooth transplant and some love with Build-A-Soil’s Rootwise & Aloe powder amendments.

It is not a necessity but if there is transplant shock it will hinder that short veg time.

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10 days is fine. I used to do that, but I always ended up waiting until they were pot-bound and stunted. :rofl::crazy_face:

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At 10 days when you slide the contents of the solo cup out generally it will break apart leaving you with bare roots which you can then attempt to gently transplant into the final pot they should have started in originally. :wink:

Can you transplant autos? Without a doubt! Will 100% of the transplanted autos grow up to be big strong plants? Even starting in the final pot won’t guarantee that.

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glad to have you here, mate :slight_smile:

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Thanks, my buddy. As the seed-giver, you’re my copilot. I’ll hatch them on a plate and put them directly into 3 gallons.

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In for this grow show bro!

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I think that’s the same set of green cereal bowls I have.

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This is my first year growing auto too. I’m planting them directly into one and three gallon pots. No transplanting.

Very excited to see how your autos do! :+1:

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False alarm, folks – apologies. I needed perlite but mistakenly ordered vermiculite. Oddly, too, there seems to have been a run on perlite all over the PNW and beyond, so it appears I’ll be driving a ways. Anyway, stay tuned. :slight_smile:

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We have launch. Four of four seedlings popped – 2 HBSS and 2 Double Grape.

Each went directly into a 3 gallon fabric pot – skipped the Solo cups, thanks to you guys. The mix was pretty informal:

~16 quarts Expert Gardener potting mix (Walmart)
~16 quarts perlite (regular, not the #3 I wanted)
~12 quarts Fox Farm Ocean Forest (worked into the top 4 inches of each pot)
~1 tsp ea mycorrhizae

I did three things a little different this time.

  1. Chunky and airy is good. I used a lot more perlite than usual, by design. I was told the soil should be super aerated for these girls. I was looking for a chunkier perlite (#3) but had to go with regular sized. The #3 actually looks really good and I may standardize on that for all my grows. Btw, #3 is closer to 5 mm - 10 mm grains, a little bigger than regular. Not all perlite is labeled with a number, so know your preferred “grain sizes” in mm, too. :smiley:

  2. Vibing. I sorta hippied out on this one. I spent a long and meditative period hand-mixing the soil, breaking down every chunk, removing some hard stuff, talking to it, telling it all about the plan for the next few weeks. So much of our success is dictated by what happens underground – I felt like I wanted to use extra care and thought in the process. I was essentially practicing mindfulness is all. It’s something I try to do, especially with growing.

  3. Thinking about my pot in 3D – vertically, horizontally, etc. Because you’re all warning me about the fast take off, I spent some time “architecting” the soil build and layering. I wanted to dilute the FFOF so I only used the 3 qts. per plant, concentrated in the top 3 inches or so. As I finished each potting, I stood a toilet paper tube upright directly in the center of the pot and added to the inside of the tube only fine soil, perlite, and a good amount of mycorrhizae. The FFOF went on the outside of the tube, with a sprinkle of remaining myco. Then, I sealed it up.

The “nursery silo” idea struck me after watching time lapse videos of cannabis seed growth. The general idea was to ensure that the soil immediately around the earliest tap root would be conducive to good early growth. The tap root grows straight down for about 2 or 3 inches, stops, and begins to build outward, all within about the first week. My idea was to keep the myco and fine grained soil close, and the harshness of the FFOF away from it. Who knows if it’ll matter, but I feel confident in the feeding plan for this.

Also, since I had diluted or “cut” the FFOF already, I think there’s just enough food in there to get this plant started – and that’s really all I want from it. A jump start. I mixed the FFOF only into the top few inches of each pot. In other words, almost halfway down inside this pot, there’s just plain soil. I’ll water with a nitrogen additive early on, to prevent buildup, and then cut that back as it transitions to flower.

At flowering, ideally, the FFOF layer is spent, the roots are hitting the non-fertilized soil zone, the fungal network is big and healthy, and there’s not a ton of extra N laying around in the soil. At that point, I may top dress with some blooming food – stuff with a little more P and K.

Right now, 200 PPFD for 18/6 with gentle blurples and a humidity dome in my tent most of the time. 77F and 83% RH. Every day they’ll spend a little more time in the sun (shade).

Oh, and I ph’d my water properly for the first time. It took 132 drops of pH down to drop my gallon of water to 6.3

Cheers! I’ll be back when they are hardening up.

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the theory is that when the auto’s tap root hits an obstacle, it will trigger flowering.

i have seen auto growers stack pots. start the seed in a (bottomless) pringles can, that goes on top of a (bottomless) folgers coffee can, that goes on top of a 5 gal permapot. have seen some pictures of MASSIVE autos using these crazy stacked techniques.

conceivably with autos, the deeper your pot is the larger the plant. i grew a LOT of stunted autos that flowered in seedling stage because the taproot hit bottom in the solos.

have fun with this project. autos can be a bit tricky with the feeding, but they can produce some real nice smoke. i enjoy them.

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No way! Is this true? Is that because it flowered upon hitting the frozen earth?

I can’t imagine this tap root drops 9 inches in three or four months!

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this has been my experience. i have tried growing autos in odd shaped containers. anything shallow immediately starts flowering. it has happened every time i have used small/shallow containers. never experienced it with deep/large containers. pretty sure it has to do with the taproot hitting bottom.

if i try growing fem photos or regs in the same shallow containers, they grow just fine. roots spread out like they are supposed to.

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