Nice. Thank you. 
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haha How the HELL does somebody grow an autoflower that requires a 10 gallon container?? 
These guys are in 3 gallon fabric pots and I cannot even imagine them needing a 5.
My favrorite way to grow autos is in 3 gallon fabric pots with very minimal training. In this scenario I would look for a medium sized plant yielding 40-60ish grams dry.
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I very recently grew an auto in a 1 gallon fabric pot that yielded me 5 grams of rock hard nugs. Stunted from day one, lived part of her life under 18/6 lighting and the rest under 11/13 lighting. Many would cull a plant like that but it was tiny and took up next to not space and by golly those 5 grams were tasty and quite potent. 
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2-4 ounces for me, usually.
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That’s a pretty badass training job. You must have started before node 5? I’m asking because I usually top autos too early and am learning to top later because of stunting. But it looks to me like you started topping around node 3 and kept brutally at it.
Or…was it a layover?
Edit: Yeah it was a layover.
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This photo should give you an idea of my most common method of training cannabis plants. This pic is of a HubbaBubbaSmelloScope I grew last year to make S1 seeds. I wasn’t looking for a ton of seeds so only pollinated a few branches. This is in a 5 gallon pot and was a nice size plant.
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Yeah, not bad for an auto! 
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This is that plant at 66 days post sprout. She has at that point been pollinated with reversed pollen and has seeds.
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Noiiice! 
Beautiful auto dude. That must’ve been some work, then making beans. Nice. Frigging sick af
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Now here is an example of an auto run in a 3 gallon fabric pot. NYCD auto from Ethos, first time running it and I believe she did not like being topped. She ended up a little smaller then some autos in a 3 gallon but she yielded 43 grams dry. Not a big yield but I can fit eight of those 3 gallon pots in my small 2x4 tent and if each produced that amount and if they were all different strains that would be a very nice assorted harvest.
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So, my DG’s mom is in there?
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Reminder: It is 2 autos inside (for now) and 1 auto in the Portland, er, sunshine.
Progress. 10 days since germination. Starting them on a very dilute Alaska fish fert today, and top mixing in a little blood meal and worm castings…
Here’s HBSS and Double Grape inside under 1000 MH bulb (swapped it out for HPS for veg). ~65-70% RH, 75F temp, feeding just plain pHd water. Lights about 18/6.
DG2’s leaves have some minor variegation but I’m not worried.
They’ll probably both go outside (and not come back in) when the weather is consistently sunnier and less wet.
And Tilraster (DG3) – our intrepid pioneer girl who is outside alone, braving the fickle Portland spring – has been outside from the beginning, with increasing exposure to direct sunlight when we have it. ~50-60% RH most of the time, temps from 65-42. It’s been lightly raining everyday and mostly cloudy. DG3 spent some time under a small glass/plastic cup earlier cause I needed to keep humidity up – I won’t magnify him, I swear. She’s going into full sun now. Right now, sun is up for 15.25 hours a day. She get the same nutrients as the other two, but I water her less often due to the rain she gets.
Regarding tap root length: the indoor plants are in 3 gallons; they have 7.5 inches of room left. The outdoor is in a 5 gal or 7 gal, and it has about 12 inches of room left.
The last time I grew (Cheese photoperiod), I grew the plants about 18 inches high. After harvest, I carefully washed away the dirt on the rootball to inspect. While the bottom of the roots were VERY fine/delicate and mostly near the surface, the tap root seemed to be only about 6 or 7 inches long. FYI. I get these are autos and those weren’t, but I wanted to share the data point for anyone reading.
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Today is Day 26 since germ.
My Double Grape and HubbaBubbaSmelloScope autos from @LoveDaAutos have been in 20/4 lighting; 50 DLI/700 ppfd. 78 degrees, 50 percent humidity, fans everywhere.
I’m expecting them to flower any day.
They’ve been getting 6 - 6.5 pH water. Starting ~Day 14, I gave them just a little bat guano, blood meal, worm castings and diatomaceous earth/silica. Nothing too heavy at all.
I’m pretty sure they’ll begin flowering within a week, so I shifted things yesterday (Day 25). I top dressed each with Dr. Earth Bud & Bloom + bone meal, more castings and one last, very small shot of fast nitrogen (blood meal) to sustain it through a stretch.
Today, I continued the prep by staking everything low, and tucking/snipping obstructing leaves.
For the past week, I’ve been soaking a half dozen banana peels in half-gallon dechlorinated water. I’ve done some background reading on using banana peels as fertilizer (in ways other than a compost pile) and it seems the peels are heavy in phosphorus and potassium. I’m curious to to see how much of a P & K boost they’ll give me, although I’ll do a more “scientific” experiment during the Fall 2024 Crop 2 run (which has to get finalized in a week or so!).
I’ll probably strain the peels tonight and water with a 10:1 solution off and on for a few weeks.
And Tilraster, our lone Double Grape outdoor plant, continues to the exact same diet, although with all natural rainwater (there’s been a lot) and some treated water as supplementary only. She will be just fine, but not supercharged production-wise like the others, simply due to the light schedule. She’s just finishing her fourth node. The indoor plants are up in the 6 - 7 range. . .
I’ll still be fascinated to do a blind smoke test several months from now.
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Man look at you go with all that training! You should reap the rewards of your labors. One comment I would make concerns switching over from veg nutes to bloom nutes and they hadn’t actually begun flowering yet. I typically run veg nutes till a plant is setting buds. Looking great my friend!
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Hi there, boss. Thanks for the nice note. Regarding the bloom nutes. . .I wish I had a reference for you, but in my readings, I found that most sources said (I’m paraphrasing) that switching to a more nPk and nPK mode should anticipate flower setting by 4 - 7 days – lower end for autos, higher end for photos.
For autos, you have to predict flowering by about 3 or 4 days at a minimum, I’d think. For photoperiods, I think a full week of bloom nutrients before even shifting to 12/12.
What I’m testing for is: are there more flowers? does it effect bud mass/density? Beyond those things, I don’t know what I’d expect.
But I was like you, though, too, and hedged my bets by adding an extra bit of guano to the bloom nutes. I was worried about running low on N during any stretch period. On the other hand, I didn’t want N that was gonna hang around in the soil too long. . .
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That’s a serious training job on the double grape. I can’t wait to see how she looks in a couple of weeks!
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First to flower: the indoor Double Grape, today, Day 29. (Might’ve been showing on 28th).
At least, I think that’s a flower (very near the center of photo dg1).
DG’s outdoor sister – who remains less robust in this very mild Portland spring – looks too tweenie to even start (photo dg2). But I’m guessing she’s about to?
The HubbaBubbaSmelloScope (photo dg3) hasn’t flowered.
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i dislike when my outdoor autos stall. purple punch did it to me this run. stayed in seedling mode for way too long. sometimes autos just have their own ideas about things despite having optimal conditions.
they’re still fun to grow tho. i have had some really nice smoke from autos.
you did a good job training those indoor plants. colas sites are all going to get some good light.
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