Can we talk spider mites?

Not mine but from another forum originally:

Knock Off Nuke 'em:

Screw’Em - Insecticide and Fungicide

(Against aphids such as spider mites, broad- and russet mites, thrips, whitefly etc. Also prevents mould, fungus and powdery mildew. Safe, non-toxic, can also be used on buds and can also prevent mould on buds after harvest)

INGREDIENTS
Insecticidal Soap (also called Potassium Soap) (10-20ml)
Distilled Water (1L)
Yeast (fresh brewery yeast or dry yeast) (20g)
Lemon Juice (8.5ml)
Potassium Sorbate (500mg)
Sodium Benzoate (500mg)
I am using Insecticidal Soap for a long time for spraying, I assume the added ingredients in Nuke ‘Em are to give the spray more oomph. The Lemon Juice, the Potassium Sorbate and the Sodium Benzoate are preservatives for the solution but they also prevent mold, fungus, powdery mildew etc. which IMO insecticidal soap alone can’t do. There may also be other insecticidal effects from these ingredients. The Yeast is possibly added so that bugs which are not instantly killed are eating the stuff so that the spray has a double-effect, which may be needed for some more difficult critters like broad mites.

I established the percentages based on the label for Nuke’Em and other info I found on the web, eg. what a typical percentage for Potassium Sorbate etc. is…so this may not be 100% accurate like in the original, but it should do.

INSTRUCTIONS
Make 1L of insecticidal soap solution according to instructions for your insecticidal soap. (Typical is 10-20ml insecticidal soap for 1L water). (I use distilled water since with water from the tap the soap can sometimes form suds and flake)
Add 8.5ml of Lemon Juice. Lemon Juice contains 5-6% of citric acid, so this comes to 0.05% of citric acid for 1L solution. You could also use citric acid directly, but why bother as everyone really has lemon juice.
Dissolve yeast in the solution. I have no information about the exact amount of yeast to use, but I would add about 20g. Reason being that the yeast comes before the “Soap” (respective “potassium salts of fatty acids”) in the ingredient list for Nuke’Em. As we know we should use 10-20g of soap, take about the same amount or a little more of Yeast.
Add 500mg of Sodium Benzoate
Add 500mg of Potassium Sorbate

NOTES

If you want to make larger batches: Above is for 1L. 1 gal = 3.785L.

As this contains preservatives, it should be possible to make this spray and store for some time.

Use a good garden sprayer for spraying. A manual garden pressure sprayer is much better than these dinky hand sprayers. If you don’t have a pressure sprayer, trust me the $15 or whatever they cost is well worth it.

Use the usual precautions, like not spraying in direct sun, spray either at night before lights off or even better early in the morning. Spray your plants well, also the underside of the leaves. I am using insecticidal soap against aphids etc. for a long time and it has never in any way, harmed the plants. The list of ingredients for this DIY looks safe to me, and should also be safe on buds, unlike eg. Neem which would give your buds an awful taste. This DIY spray should also be good not only for aphids but also for mould, fungus, powdery mildew etc.

Try it and let us know! These ingredients, if you already have the insecticidal soap should only cost a few bucks, and this should be good for making tons of this stuff that should last you for a long time.

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This is from the old GGG forums. I have used this one a lot.

FULLY ORGANIC INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT

These oils are simple hydrocarbons that’ll break down in the presence of light and oxygen think ( cannabinoids or terpenes ) so they dissipate within 24 hours of use and will not harm smells or flavors.

DO NOT USE WITHIN 2 HOURS OF LIGHTS TURNING ON

When using the Essential Oils for the first time, use it at a dose of maybe 2mL per Gallon. If you up to 10mL the first time, the plants, which are not used to the oils, may get burned. Start low and work your way up.

IPM 1-1: Foliar Spray (PPT BY ANDREW GUALDI)

Container #1
2 Cup of Warm Water
1.5 tsp Potassium Silicate (emulsifier)
1 tsp Aloe Vera Extract 200x

Container #2
1 tbs Mixed Essential Oils (ex. Cinnamon, Clove, Rosemary, Thyme)
1.5 tsp Neem Oil
1.5 tsp Karanja Oil

Container #3
1 Gallon of Warm Water (minus the 2 cups from Container #1)

Directions:
Mix Container #2 into Container #1
Stir, stir, stir
Dump into Container #3
Stir, Shake, Stir
Put into sprayer and use immediately

Use up to 10 ml of mixed essential oils (usually 3 or 4 kinds):
Lavender
Cinnamon
Clove
Thyme
Rosemary (Melts mite eggs)
Citronella
Spearmint
Peppermint
Eucalyptus

How to Emulsify: Use a small glass bottle with a screw cap. Add neem oil, K Sil (potassium silicate), a bit of water at room temperature. Screw the cap on and just shake the bottle for a few mins. If oil droplets are still floating around, add a bit more ksil and repeat the process. When it’s a nice even liquid of milky consistency, pour into sprayer, add water add a form of saponin and go to town.
Also you may use Yucca Extract as well as Dr. Bronner’s Soaps.

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I bought some of these but that they say not to be in the room more than 4 hours concerns me.

I was planning on moving plants out of one tent and into another, and leaving the pest strips in the empty turned off tent for a few weeks, spray it all down (dichlorvos is supposed to break down in water) then turn everything back on and move the plants back in

Its toxic vapor, it gets all over everything, I wouldn’t keep that shit in the same room with living anything, much less plants I’m gonna smoke.

any chance that it can get on my flowers I’m going to try and get around it. just my thoughts, but I’ve tried all the soaps and sprays I can bear to spend any more money on, fed up just gon chemical napalm the little fuckers.

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I had a heavy infestation :sweat:. After emptying my tent, I washed it thoroughly with water and bleach with soap. Then I used a vapour cleaning machine and boiled the remnant eggs, vapour reaches everywhere. Started a new grow with yellow and blue sticky traps and so far so good, just three fungus gnats … :sweat_smile:

Captura

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had 'em beat 'em used Kootenay Biological Soils Ltd # Method 1 PPS and safers insecticidal soap

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Canadian tire sells a product similar to this i bought but have a bad memory

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You need it in the room with the plants for the vapor to be effective. Turn the fans down, limit air exchange, let the strips work a few days. You need vapor contact on the mites.

It’s not that bad, unless you’re an insect.

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Was it Safers End All? Thats what I use on my veg plants if I get spider mites.

yes i think that was it!

I had a harder time getting rid of powdery mildew than I did spider mites

Super toxic. I would never, ever put those near my person or plants.

my 2¢.

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Plant therapy from the beginning until week 6. PM and mites wont be an issue. If u have mites go the sure fire way and smash em with the floramite avid forbid shuttle rotation then get back on the plant therapy

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Hey Silver do you know if that nuclear stuff like Avid could leave some residual on buds even if the plants had been sprayed ONLY during veg ?
Few runs ago i had to use it on vegging plants but after reading a comment of a guy that analyzed his buds and found 008ppm of abamectin on it even if he just sprayed the clones for prevention…i started to think about it, given the fact that im running a sealed room…

The statement i red was just a comment on a forum, so nothing that can be backed with proves but sure made me think twice about using that stuff again for prevention.
I had BM i erased em with abamectin but now my crop is healty as fuck and im thinkin to just spray Spinosad 11,6% a call it an IPM…
Does anyone has more info about it?
My other idea was to order some predatory mites and spread em around the house and in my outodoor garden to keep the situation in check, outdoor because they will find food to reproduce themself.

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Dont try predatory insects indoors it is pissing in the wind. And the thing u read was bullshot no way he tested hot for abamectin if he sprayed in veg or even first 10 days of flower. Its half life is like 45 days and that’s without intense light sonin a grow room I’d imagine 30 days and it is gone. Alot of misinformation on these forums so be careful. Mycobutinal is alot more probable to come up hot it is what is used in eagle 20 and that shit lingers that’s why I am just a fan of constant plant therapy usage. If u got rid of ur mites then just spray plant therapy 2 to 3 times a week till week 6 and ull be good

I used floromite and forbid. Drowned everything in the space the tent is in. Haven’t seen so much as a fly in that room for months. That hippie shit don’t work after they get a foot hold. What does avid and to the rotation missed by floromite and forbid?

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Half life of 45 days - so in 45 days it is half gone. in another 45 days it is a quarter left… Do you understand how half life works?

Indoor predators are pissing in the wind? Have you tried it?

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From the Washington Dept of health on No pest strips making people sick:

https://www.doh.wa.gov/CommunityandEnvironment/Contaminants/Pesticides/PestStrips

Active chemical in No Pest Strips:

Dichlorvos ( 2,2-dichlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate , commonly abbreviated as an DDVP [1]) is an organophosphate widely used as an insecticide to control household pests, in public health, and protecting stored products from insects. The compound has been commercially available since 1961 and has become controversial because of its prevalence in urban waterways and the fact that its toxicity extends well beyond insects.[2] The insecticide has been banned in EU since 1998.[3]

CDC Warns on the misuse of no pest strips:

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Lol yes I have tried it when I was alot younger and like insaidnpissing in the wind. And you are right about half life, i misspoke the half life is one week. Sorry I wasnt on point with the Last post. So half life on unshaded soil is a week do the math over a month and the chemical is out of the plant totally and will test clean. This I know cus ubhave had weed test clean when I used avid up to the end of week 1 of flower those are facts

There’s controlling mites, and there’s eliminating them. I choose elimination. I find it best to use the most effective product once or twice, rather than constant sprays of “organic” pesticides.

I’ve never gotten sick from any pesticide, indoor or out, ever. A little common sense and you’re golden.

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“A little common sense and you’re golden”

I think you should take your own advise. You might even try reading some of the information I’m posting. :v:

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