Thanks for the link @PioneerValleyOG
From the article.
As a community, we seem to recycle bad information over and over.
I personally think this is a good tip.
When over 50% of trichomes are cloudy, maximum THC production is reached.
I feel we should forget about looking for amber trichomes as an indication of a harvest window unless you want sleepy weed.
Or unless it is early amber then that is a totally different animal.
I think some folks are finally starting to catch on to this fact.
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I completely agree with you on that bro.
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I won’t disagree with ya one bit on that @shag
I hit the mark last year, mostly cloudy with very little amber.
The Hash from the “Hammer Mitten” is awesome, it definitely leans to the sari a side, and tasty AF with no couch lock and a great heady not body buzz.
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The Journal of Cannabis Research is a fully open access, peer-reviewed journal that welcomes submissions covering all topics pertaining to cannabis. Our goal is to provide an outlet for experts across disciplines and foster innovation and collaboration, driving public discourse and around this timely issue and furthering this exciting area of research.
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Hard outta likes.
Thank you so much, @PioneerValleyOG, for that link! 
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This is something I e been playing with on a big ole clone I have and it’s been working in veg. Just moved to flower 2 days ago so we will see. Here’s my method Controversial Defoliation Increases Marijuana Yields | Grow Weed Easy
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Role of bacteria and fungi in pH and the soil food web
-This post was copied from my reply to another topic but I thought this topic was actually a better place for it-
What I’ve learned through the years is that plants and trees produce more energy than they can absolutely use. They then share about 50% of their gained energy (gained through photosynthesis) with the soil food web, which is largely governed by bacteria and fungi. This 50% will probably not be accurate, but it’s the number I was thought, I’m pretty sure this number will depend on plant health and stressors in part, but that’s beside my current point.
Each plant or tree has it’s preference for certain types of soil (constituents of the soil) and a certain pH range (ability to leach/feed on each element changes with pH).
The plant or tree starts out as a seed with little or none of it’s own ability to choose on where it ends up, but once it sprouts, if sprouted within the conditions that are sufficient to start life, it will have in it’s genetic code the right keys to convert the soil food web towards a more beneficial one for it’s own good and it’s future generations.
It does this through direction of energy. Half of the energy produced is used directly by the plant to power it’s life and growth. The other half is split between the bacteria and the fungi. If more food is directed towards the fungi, the soil will move towards a diminished pH value, so it will “go sour” a little bit. If more food is directed towards the bacteria, the soil will gain pH value and will go more basic.
This division is directly influenced by each plant growing in the soil food web, and as you move from one plant species to the next, the soil will gently change with it.
This all takes time of course, and is only one part of what is going on below ground. There’s of course all kinds of critters as well, maybe a few yeasts here n there, you name it. These all work together, as the fungi and bacteria tag along on worms, nematodes, beetles, slugs, and whatever else you’ll find in the ground.
The bacteria and fungi then use this plant energy to boost an increase in surface area, so they can spread further and reach more materials to transform into nutritional elements for the plants.
The cannabis plant is a plant with an exceptional appetite, and thus it benefits from having a properly supported soil food web.
A lot of the organic plant food bottles focus on adding material to the soil. When this is combined with a soil that has a good balance of bacteria and fungi and thus the right pH, or when specifically tailored to cannabis micro-organism pellets are used, it can all combine into having a very tasty organic end product and leaving a healthy soil behind for the next year that no longer has a need for tilling.
The best thing to do after this point would be throwing on some fresh compost with integrated manure and planting some alfalfa as a cover crop until next round. The worms in the soil will transport the stuff you throw on top back down piece by piece as they chomp on it and shit it back out, leaving your soil patch ready for next year with minimal effort.
Aside from simply food production, fungi also protect the plant through the means of fungal enzymes aimed at plant pathogens. The fungi are also responsible for sharing food “between food webs” as they reach further than bacteria can and will communicate and transfer food with other fungi webs and can also cater to more plants. The bacteria are often larger in number, but usually smaller in mass. They also possess the ability to supply the plant with food as they supply it with nitrogen. And much like the fungi they also exhibit forms of plant protection by competing with harmful microbes. Last, but certainly not least, fungi and bacteria both do their own very specific work on soil structure, keeping it healthy and conducive to bountiful crops without having to break your back over it.
Now what I find interesting about this in relation to this discussion, is that this means 2 things: cannabis, like all other plants, will adapt to the soil it is grown in because the soil directly influences epigenetic factors. And the other is, cannabis, like all other plants, will adapt it’s action to the soil it is grown in (leaving all other conditions present outside of the scope right now).
Knowing all this, I think it would be completely and utterly impossible for soil to not have an influence on the plants and the product.
Though I also think that cannabis showcases an ability to make the best out of it’s conditions and not in the least in the flowers. This is logical from a evolutionary perspective as well, as the flowers are of course the main product it is cultivated for, and cultivation makes a great part of it’s history, both present day but also long ways back. Now if cannabis would not have been cultivated, things might have evolved a bit differently, as the winds pollinate without preference for smell or potency, and flower quality directed culling is mostly a human endeavor.
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Ok, so this is just a quick tip, as I have been gone for some time but have returned.
It’s about ants. Little bastards can ruin soil, and harm and destroy plants.
Often they can get into planters, pots, fabric grow bags, and create large colonies. I had this problem with one of my 30 gal containers. Went to do some mixing and found a huge colony of ants, many carrying eggs, many dying to crawl on me, all marching with some tedious chore in their lives.
This is the product I use. I do not worry about it affecting the soil or the ecosystems health, as it is used in microdoses.
The bottle I have, I’ve used for years and is barely a 1/4 gone. To use, I tear or cut a small piece of cardboard, one or two inches square, and place 2-3 drops on it. I only use 3-4 of these squares, it’s very effective. Ants in the kitchen? Works well too. First they find and surround the goo, feast on it, bring it home to the family. And all are decimated. Every last one. I couldn’t believe they wiped out that planter colony, thousands of ants, simply disappeared within 48 hours.
Here’s the goods.
Uploading: IMG_20230709_085305_HDR.jpg…
I also use this, not in my planters, but in a circle around my fenced in area, to keep bugs in check. Third, I use yellow sticky pads, that attract pests such as aphids, fungus gnats, thrips, green flies, black flies and more. Be careful with the bigger squares, I did catch a bird that thought he had an easy smorgasbord. This year I’ll be placing a piece of plastic netting big enough for bugs but not birds. Will share a pic at some point. The yellow sticky boards are very effective.
Lastly, I use Earth’s Ally, a plant oil based spray to protect them, I just began using the 3 in 1, which is an insecticide, fungus and mildew suppressor as well.
That’s all for now.
It’s about ants. Little bastards can ruin soil, and harm and destroy plants.
Often they can get into planters, pots, fabric grow bags, and create large colonies. I had this problem with one of my 30 gal containers. Went to do some mixing and found a huge colony of ants, many carrying eggs, many dying to crawl on me, all marching with some tedious chore in their lives.
This is the product I use. I do not worry about it affecting the soil or the ecosystems health, as it is used in microdoses.
The bottle I have, I’ve used for years and is barely a 1/4 gone. To use, I tear or cut a small piece of cardboard, one or two inches square, and place 2-3 drops on it. I only use 3-4 of these squares, it’s very effective. Ants in the kitchen? Works well too. First they find and surround the goo, feast on it, bring it home to the family. And all are decimated. Every last one. I couldn’t believe they wiped out that planter colony, thousands of ants, simply disappeared within 48 hours.
Here’s the goods.
Uploading: IMG_20230709_085305_HDR.jpg…
I also use this, not in my planters, but in a circle around my fenced in area, to keep bugs in check. Third, I use yellow sticky pads, that attract pests such as aphids, fungus gnats, thrips, green flies, black flies and more. Be careful with the bigger squares, I did catch a bird that thought he had an easy smorgasbord. This year I’ll be placing a piece of plastic netting big enough for bugs but not birds. Will share a pic at some point. The yellow sticky boards are very effective.
Lastly, I use Earth’s Ally, a plant oil based spray to protect them, I just began using the 3 in 1, which is an insecticide, fungus and mildew suppressor as well.
That’s all for now.
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It’s that time of year for outdoor growers across the New England and equal parallels.
Time for the boys and girls to show themselves, and sexing your plants in a timely matter is just as important as any other major aspect of cannabis growing. I did some digging, and this was the best Intel I could find for your reading and knowledge growth. In short, my advice is short and simple. Chop those males as soon as you can, but be certain they are males. Here’s how.
https://dutch-passion.com/en/blog/sexing-cannabis-how-to-tell-if-your-plant-is-male-or-female-n988
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With great respect to @THCeed for bringing this to the OG Commmunity. It’s not a huge secret, but an advanced technique that is very effective. Here’s at ya.
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@PioneerValleyOG I feel what you are trying to do but this is not the method @thceed used. This is for 7-10 days before harvest but this is still good info for sure 
. I’ve been looking for examples of it done in veg. Thanks for this thread I’ve learned a lot from it all ready!
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i just love herbies articles 
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I know, just saying, it came from his thread, and yea that’s correct. Technique to be used at harvest.
Today, I’m turning you on to Kyle Kushman. Specifically, his super cropping technique, which I use for certain plant types. I’m posting the video, because it says it all. Follow this technique and the results can and will amaze you.
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Today I’m posting a very interesting article, brought to my attention by @Dirt_Wizard. It regards Trap Plants, and as the battle of aphids and spider mites is the bane of outdoor growers, I found the information fascinating.
https://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gmpro-0411-trap-plants-biologicial-controls-pesticides/
A good read!
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I’m putting out 2 classes today in OG High Discovery Classroom. This one brought to our attention by @CocoaCoir , and is a quick video on solventless cartridges, and making your own. Good catch, @CocoaCoir !
Here’s at ya…
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Man, I planted nasturtiums and petunias in a bunch of pots this year after reading about indicator plants, and it really works! They attract the mites and aphids and shit and it’s really obvious to know when they’re around now and I should spray some potassium soap or pyrethrin or something
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I use Earth Allly, it’s all organic, oils from plants. Works good but gotta stay on it.
This info is seriously on point! So helpful!
@PioneerValleyOG do you have any good info on seed making? Just curious it seems to be one topic that is the least covered. I was looking on a weed grow info site everything you need to know blah blah blah but the only mention of seeds was in reference to Hermie’s seeding out your bud so all negative. Love this thread man lots of good info.
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