I see this a whole lot… and I have to say… I DO NOT plan on using the same old setting someone happened to find that will work… no offense to jet because he’s awesome… but I thought we were going to get to the bottom of what is best… like THE BEST Ways and settings to cure in the cannatrol really are… with how many people we have with a cannatrol we should already be down to science on it…
Yet alot of people just adopt settings and aren’t trying to improve on it… I find that a total shame…
I will be doing tests and hope the rest of you do as well including jet… because it was a lot of money… and I’m positive there’s more magic to be found than just everyone jumping on a working bandwagon instead of true control tests to find real improvement on what does work already
I was just composing a thing here, but decided to jump onto your response.
There is NO established setting that works for everyone in every locale.
Some are killing it with default settings, while others scream stay away from default…
My next run possibly going Temp 68° and Dew Point 56° for maybe 8 days, then try Cure Cycle for same days, Temp 68° and Dew Point 54°or 54.5°.
Ive thought about trying stock settings, but really unsure about that, although people getting positive results.
Having it go to Dew Point 52° at 68° is just too low, I think. Even for a short time, I wouldnt want my stuff that low.
That’s what I think we should be doing… like I’ve said several times… I think wetter is better… below the point of mold but barely below… I’d think would prove to cure better and stronger… it’s moisture that is the throttle… and the livelihood of the bacterias … that’s why I doubt I’ll hang dry a day 1st… it all comes down to the bacteria… hang drying I’d think leaves possibility for death of said bacteria… going straight in the machine would ensure this never happens…
That’s something to make note of as well… different locale… Temps and humidity does NOT matter here… because the machine deals with that… but barometric pressure … and elevation may…
But with that being said… generally settings would not be too different from locale to locale… and if they are it should be contributed to mostly barometer or elevation… (don’t get me wrong a desert vs a rainforest is obviously going to have some differences… but unless extreme like that I’d think things will be similar… after all… everyone using jets settings cannot be living in the same locale lol
I wouldnt think locale should make much of a difference, but Im not versed in the physics of what happens in a “Controlled Environment” such as the Cannatrol when moved from warm and dry Las Vegas to an equally warm (in-home temp usually 74°F) but perhaps more humid climate.
Should there really be much variable involved since the Cannatrol is regulating the environment? The first day or two, perhaps… As its finding an equilibrium and beginning the process due to differences moisture of material, etc…
Yet it does this in every environment… I’d think just because a fan is running more… or less… isn’t going to change anything… i dont think that’s where the difference lies…
Like I said… it does what it’s supposed to do… so that means in dry arid environments and moist humid environments… humidity it will handle… Temps on the other hand… it only will achieve a 10 degree delta from ambient air… meaning… it will only get 10 degrees cooler than where it’s sitting…
So too hot may be a difference… or too cold…
But humid or dry… I don’t think will matter as long as that sponge stays wet. The difference will be how long it takes to find equilibrium inside maybe but by how long? Will it matter? I say unless somehow it dries too much no it won’t matter.
I talked to cannatrol several times on the phone… and I distinctly remember saying I’m going to go cooler than suggested , and she immediately said. You DONT wanna do that… I asked why… she just said trust me… you don’t wanna do that
So what are we missing here then? Because on 1 side of belief… cooler down to 60 f is best… on the other (cannatrol themselves) say 68°f is best hence the default…
My opinion on this… is that bacteria will NOT thrive as much in cooler environments hindering it’s ability to cure as in depth as rich as we want… as temps get closer to 70°f bacteria is beginning to thrive at those temperatures and is more “active” meaning they are pumped and ready to do a job…
I do know I’ve talked to people on this thread that are in arid climates and they don’t dump their drain pan as much during the dry cycle. I live in the humid US south and dump it twice a day the first couple days.
I do know bacteria. If I knew the name of bacteria at play I would be much more useful. If anyone has a study or paper I’ll read it and digest for the thread. I’ll do some googling and see what I find
Sweet thank you!! Identifying the bacteria at play is a great start!! Didn’t even think about that until u mentioned it… we need to draw attention to the actual science behind the curing process. All bacteria are typically similar in life needs… so I’d think immediately warmer is better than colder 68f better than 60f… with that being said… warmer is scary when considering wetter for increased bacteria function and multiplication of offspring…
Yet warmer increases that itself… so if warmer I’d think a very careful speculation on how long ramp times are and how wet it is going to be… a 90 day cure takes way longer to ramp than a 4 day… so there’s differences in actual curing timings as well… if curing longer may need to start slightly drier… and if curing shorter may benefit to start wetter etc…
I hear you, but people are afraid they will lose their whole crop if it goes wrong. I found settings that work for me and I might play around with them in the future to try to improve things, but there is a risk…
My thoughts are twofold, but I feel its because the Cannatrol Cool Cure is only capable of moderate temperature swings.
Cannatrol knows and even states that in their literature. Most Cannatrol owners should reasonably be able to keep their Cannatrol unit in a suitable environment not to exceed 75-76°F. Obviously, there are those that will not be able to maintain that kind of environment.
Ive seen one guy that does 60/60 with his. Mine wont hit 60° even if my room is 69-70°F.
68° Cannatrol Bulb Temp is not unreasonable, and if we’re looking for a baseline temp for everyone to work with towards a “Calibration Standard”, I think 68°F should be it.
From there, other variables may include:
Dew Point
Slope vs Step
Dry time
Cure time
…
That’s a statement I would not be prepared to make. Bacteria are crazy mother fuckers. It can be hot, cold, high oxygen, no oxygen.
I’m distracted, but I’m going to look and ask my sister who’s a biologist. I’m going to make a stab that it’s an enzyme action in the cure cycle, so I’ll check that too. Likely, and I’m talking out my ass, the cooler temps limit the enzyme action to an acceptable level. Otherwise it would overcome the plant material into decomposition.
Alright, so, I’m going to be distracted with making dinner, but then I’ll poke around and see what I can find!
Aw! Thank you. As a profession we’re trying to do better. I had very unpleasant experiences in PE as a chubby redheaded girl, too.
I’m about to read this article!
Eta:
What a wild article. Basically, science is making cannabinoids with yeast and algae. That’s misleading, science is getting yeast and algae to make it for them.
There are I think it said, 11 parents already filed for different stuff related to making synthetic cannabinoids. They have drawings of the digesters they would use to house the yeast and harvest the cannabinoids.
Oh ok… I got lost right away and assumed it would mention the names of bacterias during curing and the enzymes involved as well… it’s very hard to find info on that particular fact @supersecretjim@AppalachianBiscuits
