Let me get that…If I use biobizz Calmag,I would need to add how many grams of Epsom?
Considering 5 liters of water,that Is about a Little less than 2 gallons right?
Distilled water of course
I go 1/2 tsp along with normal cal-mag dosing per feed. I find it easier to keep it balanced with a smaller dose, rather than a larger dose every other feed. I use Botanicare, not sure if that makes much of a difference. As for a conversion, I failed math twice. not gonna try to do math. And I don’t use it in flush. In the first 2 weeks I flush with monosaccharides. Simple sugars. That way you can bypass the need for mycos to break down the complex sugars, such as molasses based products. The last week, pure water.
Ok I ll try the math even if my math Marks were Always F through all my school story HAAHAHAH
Or,I could do a foliar spray with Epsom,very light feed to not worsening my deficiency/issue
Do you know a dosage for foliar Epsom?
I don’t foliar feed anything but cal-mag. Mostly for autos, as it’s a very common deficiency. And every minute counts when fixing problems growing autos. Foliar feeding is instant nutrient uptake, compared to feeding through the root zone. So start with a smaller dose. An 8th or a 1/4 strength. You will see if additional treatment is necessary. As any foliar spray, do when lights are out to avoid burning plants. I use a 3hr minimum darkness after any spray.
Yep,autos are very fast and I ALREADY Lost a lot of yield on this plant caused by this issue I am having and cannot identify
I’ll wait for Calmag to come in mail in 2 days,to not create any problem with the nutrients already in the soil and feed the roots,then,if the case,Epsom spray
i do 1.8g per gal
My set up us similar to Doug
I add Epsom to my well water
You don’t have enough photosynthesis. Reproduction is being prioritized over growth. Roots are getting zero growth to reach new nutrients.
It’s very obvious to anyone with experience that your problem began with poor root establishment due to a specific sugar transport issue. Easily solvable with 1.33ppm. I’ll let the pros like Reiko tell you which metaloid it is.
Turned out that pH Is off,over 7,3
Let me guess. Wait, I can’t remember but I bet it starts with a B. Let me get my Miracle-Gro container.container.
I know, Boron. Is this for a prize? Some seeds?
Oh wait, pH. That will get you every time.
It took me 20 years of using miracle grow fertilizer and infused products to learn that there is something in that stuff that will make your smoke harsh!.
Magnesium sulphate ( Epson salt) aid in the displacement and dissolving other salt build up … do it would work to get rid of any extra salt build up . And yes flushing does work, I’ve tested the theory countless times by mistake, not flushing half the herd, tastes and burn isn’t even comparable … don’t flush you get black ash 99% of the time
I should stfu but it is what it is, I’ll happily stand corrected.
I broke a branch tight to the stem nearing the end of a crop, i got a strip of capillary matt and used it to siphon sap from the plant over the course of lowering the nutrient and measuring the ec, i found it fell in line then to 0.0 with water.
Jfc i don’t subscribe to flushing, however I couldn’t overlook the nutrient the plants pull up before they’re chopped ie the nutrient is spread around its vascular system, typically water evaporates leaving its mineral content behind that’s what I see happening hence the 3-4 days water.
I’ve had enough pelleters at Riu ffs go easy
This is the answer.
I would never try to flush with just Magnesium myself.
Too much mag can compact your soil and cause many other issues.
Gypsum will work to reset the soil CEC, open up the soil and provide much-needed Calcium.
Now I would flush with a mix of Gypsum and a small amount of Epsom salt.
I would also ditch the bottle of Cal/Mag.
When you need Calcium you should add calcium and when you need Magnesium you should add Mag.
But adding both at the same time regardless of what is needed is not the best choice in my opinion.
When they are both in the same bottle you can not change the ratio of Cal to Mag ever, you just keep adding both at the same ratio.
Also to get the amount of calcium most plants need, you will be over applying Mag.
So in short, if you use a bottle of Cal/Mag you are most likely to have too much Mag messing things up in your soil.
Plus, Cal, and Mag purchased separately are a great deal cheaper!
I m loving how this old thread of mine Is going on and bringing new insights
Thank you all
Now I m using Coco coir not soil,so the question Is different
I have never done coco myself, but I believe the solution grade gypsum works best in coco.
Also, the gypsum flush seems to show best results when using coco.
Coco and calcium have a weird relationship, as you may know.
What a gypsum flush does in coco, to the best of my knowledge anyway is…
It will reset the CEC sites by knocking off unwanted salt and nutes off of them, and add back calcium and other needed elements, this works to rebalance the CEC and helps the proper nutes become available again, especially if anything gets locked out.
I would not say it will fix lockout but it will help prevent it from happening in the first place.
Thank you @shag,I noticed I was suffering from calmag deficiencies during my last grow and I added more calmag this time.Needless to Say I have not experienced calmag deficiency like the last grow.Probably using gypsum and magnesium sulfate alone will help and work Better than having to use RO to remove calmag from my tap and working from 0.Instead,using gypsum and mag sulfate Will help me find a solution for using only my tap water(50mg Ca and 27mg Mg from municipal analysis average,but lot of Calcium and Mag carbonates,Total Ec of Average 0.4) and avoid to buy Ro filters again.
I Always got lockouts/problems because I have lot of carbonates and really hard water,I think Coco got clogged with carbonates that blocked absorption of other Ions and elements by the root sites