Frosted Cobra x Frankenstein grow

Holy shit! Are those all well developed pins/early shrooms?

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They all developed to full size. Crazy big flush. But the second one was nothing. All these mushrooms were huge clusters. so I destroyed the casing when picking. Huge craters remain
Here is progres


@Tappy

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Must have looked wild!!!

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They look good, leaves will grow back as the plants get taller and the lightwill not get that far down anyway. They seem a little stretched for an indiica leaning strain as far as the leaf shape would indicate.

How high is your light above canopy :thinking: it maybe just the plant’s, some strains just seem to go mad in the stretch phase of flower I have found.

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Yeah, I’m scratching my head over that…
From the beginning of flowering it is generally about 15 inches. Rarely a little more (if I know I won’t be able to get to the plants).
It is often less than 15.
Do you have a suggestion for the minimum distance of the MH 600W? So I will try and monitor the temperature
@Shadey

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When I had my 600w HPS, it was between 14 and 18 inches if it not in a cooling tube with airflow, with a cooling tube it was closer. Not sure if an MH produces more heat than HPS.

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There is a bit more warmth with MH.
I’ll see what I can come up with… It may be that nothing can be done…
Just to say that I really appreciate your willingness and suggestions :slight_smile:
Thank you @Shadey and big respect

Edit
Here, the light came on and this is the situation. 13.5 inches. Now I’m going to rise up a little less than 2 inches till tomorrow

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I wold keep it at 14 inches above canopy, the plants look great, no light burn showing, it must be just a stretchy pheno, has it got any Cinderella 99 in its lineage. I found anything I grew with C99 would stretch dramatically, didn’t make any difference to how low the light height was lol.

Also the wings on the light look pretty vertical in the pic, if you bend them open more, you will get a more even footprint of light over your whole canopy rather than just in the middle under the light :wink:

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Greetings
14 days have passed since 12/12 and I’ll start with question.
When to switch from MH to HPS?
It is crowded and the plants are stretched. There will be some serious staking. When I’m sure that the stretch is finished, I’ll try to make a geometric plan for the staking and arrangement of the plants. If it doesn’t work, one goes out.

The plants are healthy and considering my inexperience, I am satisfied with the progress so far.

They are still on the copied Jack 321 numbers every watering.
With the fact that I no longer use RO water. I received the water quality report and am extremely happy with the numbers. I will be able to cut N very easily when needed, as there is already 65ppm calcium in the water. Now I need to use less calcium nitrate

Suggestions are always welcome :slight_smile:




Thanks for reading
Pannonian

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If headroom is an issue, I would switch to HPS after they stop stretching. The spectrum of the MH makes them grow tighter node structure. Around 21 to 28 days on 12/12 they are done stretching.

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Thanks @Tracker
Headroom is not a problem. There is a lot of room for their growth.
My main concern is that the stems are already thin and floppy. But,one way or another, I should put the stakes in…
So, it’s a question of quality, yield… optimal conditions for plants
Thanks

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A long time ago, I used MH/HPS. I would always switch bulbs right away when I changed lights to 12/12 timing. I haven’t dug deep on the subject to know exactly the best day to switch, so not sure that’s the best time to transition. I am sure that MH spectrum causes the node spacing to be tighter and not as much vertical growth in stretch phase.

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If you add potassium silica to their water it strengthens the stems, probably a bit late now though, so stakes would be good.

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@Shadey is right! But it never hurts to start supplimenting even late if you want the new growth to be beefier.

Silica is used up with new growth and doesn’t travel once it’s “set” (bad term but to early and still sick) which is why you need to suppliment with silica throughout.

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Yes, I made a mistake. I stopped giving silica. I used it in vege. 40-50 ppm every third watering. Maybe I miscalculated and gave more than I thought, because I noticed that the leaves became kind of dry. They looked brittle and I attributed it to the silica and stopped adding.
But now that I think about it, it could also be that I gave the intended dose, but the root mass was not well developed and the unused silica remained there before the roots reached it. And then I gave more.
And maybe “dry” leaves has nothing with silica

Learning things

Thank you @Shadey @Pigeonman

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I don’t think you can overfeed silica. The plant can only access it for new growth so it’ll be hard to over do it in that way… you can however use too much and create a nutrient lockout environment.

Monosilic acid is the 1st thing in every one of my solutions so the PH is buffered as I add to the mix. Silica can raise your PH so the moment I see any form of cloudiness forming I stop adding and toss in a few drops of PH- + meter it so I drop and avoids the lockout.

I run soil PH 6.0-6.3 and hydro 5.5-5.7 so there’s no bullshit caused by my own hand in the labs mixes :rofl: :+1:

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24th day of flowering
For the second time I gave them:
N 100ppm
P 60ppm
K 220ppm
Ca 130ppm
Mg 70ppm
S 85ppm
And micronutrients
With the fact that they also received a dose of P in the form of phosphoric acid

Some are still stretching. The plants are healthy and green, but I think the flowers should be a little bigger.
Maybe not, but something is not right. They actually drink a little. They never showed thirst, that they hung at least a little… I water them every 4 days and they only drink 2.5 liters. And I water them slowly and thoroughly, with runoff… The pots are 12l. 30% perlite

Some thoughts please.

@Hemp
What is your experience with FC x Frankenstein habits? I know you had one plant, but did it show anything like that?

Thank you

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Crank up the temps or lower the humidity and they will use more water, and grow faster.

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Yes, you’re right.
Night temperatures are lower than they should be. And when the light is on, the temperature of the canopy is ok, but lower parts are still on lower side
Thanks @Shadey I’ll tray to fix it somehow

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Looking forward if you ask them the information will come forth. Appreciate you making this post. I’m waiting on FC x Frank beans to come in from @JohnnyPotseed. Looking forward to popping some of these in the near future

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