I literally couldn’t have done it without you. Thank you, @ReikoX! That seems so in adequate for a gift that will last as long as your gift will. I gave 80 a little upside shake into a plastic container and a couple of dozen seeds rained down, with many more expected after curing. I am absolutely looking forward to smoking it more after a proper cure. 
Have an awesome weekend, my brother 
The F2s should really start to show the variation in these genetics. 
@ReikoX, I have 2 more females coming up, but they are still from the seed you sent me. Mama hadn’t starting dropping seed yet. In a couple more weeks I’ll start some from the new seed and see how well the fruit of Daddy’s loins held up in the freezer. I’ll scoop out enough to do the job and put the rest right back into the freezer. I’m kind of excited to see how it turns out. 
Hey all, I bring you some updates.
I’m not going to post any Durban pics tonight. They haven’t changed much since the last set of pics and they are awkward to move, especially 75, the tall one. I’m patiently waiting for some amber to become prevalent under the microscope.
In the meantime, I have 4 (BC Mango x BC Night Nurse) x Diesel Moonshine (from @Kalgrae’s pollen chuck give away, thru @Jellypowered and his compassion for a fellow grower that has been growing the same 2 strains for too long) reaching skyward.
One of the 2 older seeds (the ones that were “glued” together), 97 has become completely normal. The other, 96, had a defect of some sort and grew only 1 hand for each of the first couple of layers. The next looks like it will be that way as well. However, each new leaf that grows looks much healthier than the last. I believe it will be normal in a short while.
98 and 99 have been normal from the start. They are catching u[p on 97 quickly. 97 is starting its 3rd layer of hands, 98 & 99 are starting their 2nd layer of hands. My hopes for these 4 seeds it to have at least 1 female and at least one male. That is the same hope I have for each of the first grows I do.
My next couple of seeds are OG Kush (feminized) from brother @Sebring’s collection.
One of them had a 10mm long tap root when I planted it. Here’s what it looked like just 10 hours after planting it:
That one has been a little spindly. I added more coco to the top of the container to support the stalk and that seems to be all it needed for support. She is growing her first set of hands now. This one is giving me a real feeling of accomplishment.
101 is still working on growing. It was the seedling with the shorter tap root when germed. It’s tap grew more slowly that its sister.
I painted a circle around the embryo/seedling so you can see it. I’ve been keeping moist and letting it almost dry out before feeding it. I am using the sprouted seed tea solution I gave them when they were on the paper towels. I keep using magnifiers to keep an eye on it. I’d think it was dead if I didn’t. I can see small changes each day. Its tap root is out of sight enough that I can’t see it so I don’t know what its doing, but the cotyledon leaves are pulling free of their food supply. It seems to be very fragile, so I am not fussing with it. Hoping it will make it. If not, I still have one OG Kush female coming up and I am very good at cloning. Plus, I still have like 70 seeds left. If I got one out of 6 above ground, I see my chances of getting more from those seeds as pretty good. 
For those of you interested on my reversing trial, I think it is successful. Naked eye, the buds look way off. Using a magnifier, beginning stamen are visible inside the female flowers and the pistils have stopped growing and are going away.
Here is a comparison photo of 84 (my lab rat) and 82 buds. 84 is the image on the left.
The top bud looks very strange. It’ll be interesting to me to see the male buds become visible naked eye.
The last photo I’ll leave you with is the pair of new LR x LD ladies. The first one looked great, I can’t wait to see how they look growing seedless!
Good grows and good cheer everyone.
Looking awesome cobra ol’ buddy can’t wait for a smoke report on that #80!
@Hoodini, me too. It’s going to be a long 10 days…
Man C50, you really get them to size-up nicely. did you sow the seeds directly into 2 gallon pots?
Some of that seems to be stretch. the 1st 3 node layers have 3-4" between them. I probably should have had them closer to the lamp it the early days.
Yes I did. 
Several people have said autos don’t like the stress of changing pots. I didn’t know that with the first group I grew out and started them in 4" pots and into 1 gal later. This time I went right into large pots in the hope that they will get even more bountiful this time around.
@Scissor-Hanz mate,
I have grown auto’s straight to final pots too, but I find up- potting to be better ( for me) as soon as I see pistils I stick em in final pots and i do not too bad, and when the auto’s start to bloom kp feeding grow nutes til maybe stretch is over and bloom nutes when going into full bloom… hope this helps bro…
Nice growing @Cobra50 , what’s your absolute favourite plant you’ve grown on this thread.?
Excellent info on some seeds that a lot of us have, so we can have a look 
here when we crack them…
Happy growing bud,
Gaz
@Scissor-Hanz, I must’ve been thinking about my Sweet Tooth plants when I said that, they got that kind of stretching in Flowering. That is not the description of the autos.
Thank you. 
They do look really nice.
I think it is in no small part due to the SolSheet original I bought from @Baudelaire’s SolStrip Photon Solutions. When I had my Sweet Tooth vegging under the fluoros right next to the SolSheet, I needed to rotate the order of the STs daily, because the one closest to the SolSheet kept bending towards it. For a small lamp, it makes big light.
@Gaz29, Since I’ve only sampled the Durban’s and my auto of the new seeds and that was a fast dry, I can only say for final result of the buzz quality. For that, I’d have to say I really like the LR x LDs.
As far as growing ease, I think the Sweet Tooth #4 has been the easiest so far. Seems to be the quickest as well so far. The flowering stage they’re at now looks about a week ahead of the actual time they’ve been in there.
For all around aesthetics, I again like the LR x LD. It was a beautiful plant, very colorful. It was an easy plant to grow as well
Thank you. There is more than 1 way to give back the the seed community, I guess.
.
Glad you enjoyed those brother. If you want some of my other Lowryde crosses to try out, hit me up.
While it is not yet time for the curing to be done, I couldn’t help stop myself from taking a small branch from 80 (the LR x LD auto I just harvested) and quick drying it yesterday. Taste got better (expected, more curing time than the last samples I smoked). The buzz is quite good! It is very similar to my Purple in that regard. No more sampling for a week (unless I succumb to temptation again ). I want to taste and smell her flavor at the next smoke. The buzz may even improve a bit as well 
.
It feels like forever while waiting for the Durbans to get ready to harvest. The last check in the microscope showed a small number of amber trikes, 5-10% maybe. They are at 76 days of Flowering.
It also seems like the seedlings are taking a long time as well. This is all just my impatience coming through, it is just so exciting to have different strains growing. They are progressing at about the same rate as the other seeds have so far.
That’s all for now, I just thought those of you whom are also growing @ReikoX’s autos would appreciate a little update. 
@Jellypowered & @Baudelaire: I’ve been patiently waiting for the trichomes on the Durban plants to turn amber. Today, #74 told me she is ready NOW.
She has bananas sparsely sprinkled on her. So, I paid attention and harvested her on Flower day 80 at 30.25" tall. Her sister #75, has no bananas and only about 15% of her trichomes are amber, but I’ll harvest here tomorrow anyway.
@ReikoX, my newest LR x LD plants, 90 & 91, are 23" tall. That makes them 9" taller that 80 was at harvest.
With these being seedless, I should have a substantial yield from them.
@Jellypowered & @Kalgrae: the 4 (BC Mango x BC Night Nurse) x Diesel Moonshine seedlings are looking good. It is getting harder and harder to see the 8 days difference in age of 96 & 97 to 98 & 99
Another week or 2 will primordia. I can’t wait to see how many of each I get.
@Sebring, Number 100 is doing really well.
Unfortunately, her sister 101, never grew. It got just so far and stopped. Good thing I have 70 more seeds.
The next seeds I will be growing out are Chuy Purps x Send Sight that I got from @pookie123 I should’ve gotten them in a few days ago, but I’ve been preoccupied in with finding the correct recipe for STS. I’ll probably get them in tomorrow.
I ran out of the STS I purchased. The plant I was reversing has continued making female flowers, so I need more. I’m going to make it myself. There are 8 different recipes that I have found. Since they come up with different amounts per liter of the ingredients, I’ve been on a mission to find the correct recipe. I accumulated all the data, worked out how much each recipe called for in terms of grams per liter so I could compare apples to apples. It turns out it is the one @ReikoX was using when he tried to reverse his Juanita is the correct recipe. Although, the majority of sources say to dilute it to 1:9 (solution:distilled water) to avoid damaging plant tissue, so I’ll be going that way.
With all I’ve been reading about using STS to reverse a female, I found I was not doing all I could to ensure a positive outcome. A good part of my failure was due to the instructions that I received along with my STS.
The instructions I got said to wait until the plant has been 12/12 for a week before spraying. Most instructions I found say to start a week before starting 12/12.
The instruction sheet said nothing about what time of its day to spray the plant. Consensus says to spray right after lights off because STS is highly sensitive to light.
The instruction sheet said nothing about storing the solution in the frig. Consensus says it goes bad at room temperature.
So, tomorrow I start again with the correct formula and good instructions on how to go about it. There should be time to get mature pollen form it before it is ready for the burn barrel.
I’ve been toying with the idea of pollinating a branch of my OG Kush with it. I think they’d make a good pairing.
Glad at least one of OgKush stayed strong. Get that girl pregnant!!! 
Your buds are a little airy on the previous photos, you might need to increase your light output, if that’s an option; it wasn’t for me for a few years, so it’s really a critique, not a criticism!
If it helps, I’ve attached the STS recipe I use below, I’ve tried a few recipes over the years and this is the one that always worked.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form. Mix all solutions in as dark an area as you can while still being able to see what you’re doing.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .8 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water (1g/L
Part B: 3.16 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water (5g/L)
Use 4.9 grams sodium thiosulfate (pentahydrate) if anhydrous is unavailable. Either will work!
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be wrapped in foil and refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. Distilled water must be used or most of the chemicals will precipitate out of solution in less than a day.
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won’t smell anything, but ventilate anyway.
I have discovered that using a stronger concentration of STS does not make a plant more likely to produce pollen. It just burns/stresses the plant.
To produce a plant that is fully loaded with pollen sacks, but no flowers, start spraying right as you flip the plant to 12/12 light. Spray every 3 days for 14 days, then spray again after waiting 14 days and then wait another 14 days to spray one last time.
This application rate counters the ethylene production during it’s build up in early flowering and then provides maintenance applications to maintain the blocking of ethylene build up.
For producing just a branch or a small section of a plant with pollen sacks, reduced the number of applications during the first 14 days to once a week, and use newspaper or cardboard to block over spray from hitting unintended areas of the plant.
My conclusion is that STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for a maximum of 3 weeks; at that point the plant’s natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms doesn’t always finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second or third spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen.
Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my application it takes around 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn’t finish before the seeds can fully mature.
One trick used by many seed producers is to move pollenated female plants back into an 18/6 light cycle where the seeds will continue to mature to completion, but the plant will halt it’s slow natural death cycle.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on the plant for it to stay healthy.
@Sebring, I think it may be sativa related. The last time I grew out sativa was Neville’s haze. The buds looked the same with them. However, it could be they require much more light than the indica type plants.
It is also very hot in there. Even though the Flowering room is in the basement, it hits 93° a couple of times a week since the weather heated up. I have six high velocity fans blowing hot air out the door. Until I can afford to get a new central air unit, it is difficult getting cool air back in the room.
I literally spent days on this. When looking up online how to mix I found 8 different recipes.
I made a spreadsheet to tell me how many grams per liter there were of each chemical in each recipe. These recipes all ended up with very different grams per liter of each. The only posted recipes I found that agreed with another posting, was a word for word re-post of one of the recipes already in my list.
I got tired of trying to make sense of it, so I went where they’d. I visited the chemical companies that showed up in my search. There was no disagreement between them. The hardest part here was having to look up terms and words that are part of the chemistry world.
It turns out the mix @ReikoX is using for STS is mathematically correct.
The formula you posted is the most commonly re-posted of all the STS recipes. But, that does NOT make it correct. It looks like the original poster decided to save money by skimping on the silver nitrate, but reducing just that and not the thiosulfate, leaves extra sodium thiosulfate molecules in the solution. I see this as bad. That chemical is used in developing photographs. It is used to absorb any excess silver in the developing solution to prevent the images getting too dark. Seems to me the STS molecules would look like free silver molecules to the sodium thiosulfate, thereby diluting the solution even more. For any form of that formula to be correct, It would needed to be amended more like this:
For true silver thiosulfate, you mix it at a 1:4 molarity. A mole represents the weight of the molecules in the solution. One mole, I believe, is the grams per liter. The following information calls this “Molar Mass”. It is the weight you use when reducing the solution by a percentage.
Name: Silver Nitrate
Formula: AgNO3
Molar Mass: 169.8731
Name: Sodium Thiosulfate (Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate)
Formula: Na2S2O3 (Na2S2O3.5H2O)
Molar Mass: 158.1077 (248.1841)
Name: Silver Thiosulfate
Formula: Ag2S2O3
Molar Mass: 327.8646
According to 3 the chemical company sites, the correct mixture for 1% silver thiosulfate solution would be:
1 part silver nitrate solution at 1.698731 grams per liter added to
4 parts sodium thiosulfate solution at 1.581077 grams per liter. (2.481841 per liter if using pentahydrate)
This, of course, gets diluted so we don’t kill our favorite green things. Common wisdom indicates using .1% solution
It doesn’t matter if you reduce the amount as long as both are reduced by the same amount same percentage
The difference between the anhydrous and pentahydrate sodium thiosulfate is pentahydrate has five H2O molecules bound with it to make it a crystal form. Once dissolved in water, the molar weight it the same as anhydrous since the water molecules strip away as soon as they hit the water.
There is one thing left out on all the STS mixing instructions from how the experts mix. They do all there mixing in a darkened cabinet because both solutions are reactive with light. Small wonder that STS is so sensitive to light, eh?
These application instructions, and others are where I learned the instructions that came with my purchased STS were very lacking.
I’m glad I did all the research. I actually understand the process now. I did re-spray my sweet tooth #4 fem. Having an adequate supply of STS to spray until runoff should get it right. I should have chosen just a branch to spray, but the plant was pretty small when I started. I’m sure the male buds that are on the plant now will eventually open but they are so deeply buried inside the female flowers that are continuing to grow that I might not see it, so I need the plant to make more.
@sebring how do you make female seeds ?
@Cobra50
I’m ashamed to say that I never bothered doing the chemistry on the formula just because it worked even doing the incorrect mix.
I’ve changed my weights to match your research, which I agree is correct. Glad you caught that when a bunch of us didn’t!
@schroomgod to make feminized seeds you need to trick a female plant into producing pollen. This is at it’s core what we’re doing with the STS solution. We’re blocking ethylene, which controls female sexual expression in cannabis, and in doing so the plant produces male sexual expression. Because the pollen from a female plant is XX, and not XY, it can only produce XX offspring. Therefore all seeds will be female.
If I want a lot of seeds I create 2 clones or gather 2 sister plants with traits I want. Then I spray one plant with STS as it enters sexual maturity, during 12/12 light cycle, and I shake the female with pollen over the other female with flowers.
If I only want a small number of seeds then I just hit a single branch with STS and let it pollinate the rest of the plant, because the rest of the plant that didn’t get the STS treatment will still produce enough ethylene to trigger flowering.
@Sebring, that’s completely normal, since it works, to assume it is correct.
Apparently the mixture isn’t terribly fussy. As long as it contains silver, it appears it will work. It’s just that when mixed to different numbers, it leaves the possibility that the too strong solution will partially nullify the weaker one. The instructions for application were well thought out and very helpful.
I moved number 84 to my new Male room two days ago. Last night I gave her a good soaking with the stuff after lights out. Today the pistils have shrunk (they did that the last time as well). I take that as a good sign. I think I’ll go just 4 days between applications this time instead if 5.
Cheers
I just visited Sensi Seeds site and looked at their Durban plant. I think it may be normal for the Durban buds to look airy. Here is the only shot they were using in all their Durban ads:
The reason I chose the Sensi Seeds image is that @Baudelaire had told me he started with their Durban. My buds always looked like that, as witnessed by this image of 75 on Flower day 28
From the looks of this pic, I’m guessing the Sensi Star pic was taken about the same age as this one of 75. You just can’t miss they’re related.
Here are 4 of the 5 other plants under the 750 HPS at the same time.
My bushy Durban had that damage so bad, I thought it may have been nutes. All 6 plants (at the time) had equal lamp space and were close in size. This one was the only one to burn like this, the other 5 very a healthy green. This is also why I was diagnosing as nutes. It made more sense to me that one (new) plant could be using its nutes differently than the others. After a while, I realized it was using is food supply the same as its taller sister. I moved the remote temp probe to the top of each plant one at a time and found the corner where the Durban bush was sitting was about 4° higher than the other 6 spots. I had to re-adjust my fans for more equal distribution.
That is why if it is a problem, I think it would be heat related more than light. But I think it may be more DNA related. What ever the reason, by this time next year, I expect to have a SolStrip ladder for the light. The ladder form would allow the lights to be spread out overhead instead of one super luminous HPS. That should address the possible light issue. The fact that the I measure the surface temps on my SolStrips for veg and nursery and all 4 corn lights I have, at 85° and the surface temp of my 750W HPS bulb is close to 300°, should resolve any heat issues.
I also am looking at starting my plants no taller than 12" because the bottom of a tall plant doesn’t present much yield. The 18-22" plants often end up 4’ tall. As always, growing is a work in progress. 
I have updates to post, but they’ll have to wait until later.
I think it was just that one photo that looked airy, and you’re right that the genetics are just for airy buds. You’re also right that excess heat can prevent the buds from stacking denser.
