Glad at least one of OgKush stayed strong. Get that girl pregnant!!!
Your buds are a little airy on the previous photos, you might need to increase your light output, if that's an option; it wasn't for me for a few years, so it's really a critique, not a criticism!
If it helps, I've attached the STS recipe I use below, I've tried a few recipes over the years and this is the one that always worked.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form. Mix all solutions in as dark an area as you can while still being able to see what you're doing.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .8 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water (1g/L
Part B: 3.16 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water (5g/L)
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be wrapped in foil and refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. Distilled water must be used or most of the chemicals will precipitate out of solution in less than a day.
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway.
I have discovered that using a stronger concentration of STS does not make a plant more likely to produce pollen. It just burns/stresses the plant.
To produce a plant that is fully loaded with pollen sacks, but no flowers, start spraying right as you flip the plant to 12/12 light. Spray every 3 days for 14 days, then spray again after waiting 14 days and then wait another 14 days to spray one last time.
This application rate counters the ethylene production during it's build up in early flowering and then provides maintenance applications to maintain the blocking of ethylene build up.
For producing just a branch or a small section of a plant with pollen sacks, reduced the number of applications during the first 14 days to once a week, and use newspaper or cardboard to block over spray from hitting unintended areas of the plant.
My conclusion is that STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for a maximum of 3 weeks; at that point the plant's natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms doesn't always finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second or third spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen.
Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my application it takes around 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
One trick used by many seed producers is to move pollenated female plants back into an 18/6 light cycle where the seeds will continue to mature to completion, but the plant will halt it's slow natural death cycle.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on the plant for it to stay healthy.