I have no issue getting rid of pm. It grows into the plants tissue and cells but is not truly systemic or at least it has not been scientifically proven to be. It’s a hotly debated topic but I have plants that had it and we’re treated and it has never shown back up. Air flow, a complete sterilization of the area , I recommend a product called sns 209 along with repeat spraying.
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I’ve done sulphur burns with success in veg also use it to help clean between grows 6 hr burn if I’d had issues . Savers soap in early flower no sulphur, baking soda and water with aloe Vera near end of flower if needed.
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Do you want to eliminate powdery mildew? Not dick around discouraging it, keeping in check, etc?
Eagle 20.
Don’t mess around with hippie remedies, use what the professionals use.
A $40 bottle is basically a lifetime supply.
2.5ml/gallon.
Kills PM dead. Adjust airflow, defoliate to allow more airflow going forward.
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What many people also do not understand about powdery mildew is that it is basically plant AIDS. If you have powdery mildew, it is IN THE PLANT. Discouraging it’s flare ups is one thing, but once infected, the plant will continue to always have powdery mildew. Some are more resistant than others, some will carry it and be asymptomatic, but will spread it to other plants. The spores are in the air, if you run conditions favorable to powdery mildew, you’ll get powdery mildew, and once you have it, you have it until you literally eliminate it entirely from the plant. The only way to do that is with antifungal chemicals. The hyphae extend into the plant tissue.
High surface pH and low humidity discourage it, but will not stop it. Sulfur will discourage it, but will not stop it. Almost every big legal warehouse grow has PM because they aren’t allowed to use antifungal pesticides for medical/recreational bud. I’d rather smoke trace amounts of myclobutanil than mold spores.
I’m not saying Eagle 20 is awesome, it’s not totally innocuous, don’t get it on your skin and don’t spray it right before harvest and you’ll be fine.
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Rosemaric acid is systemic and organic, combined with other organic sprays pm can be succeafully wiped out, knock it down quick take clones from tissue that was never affected and at least 6inches from infection site. I promise I have rid plants of it and you can to it might be easier to get new moms but if there irreplaceable genetics I’d put in the work to save her
Sns 209 is a great brand of organic systemic plant love. Here is a link to there site
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://sierranaturalscience.com/natural-pesticides/sns-209/&ved=2ahUKEwjI6cad1cHnAhWXop4KHXHiCogQFjAAegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw2QHozxwnV6SfgFbU5wPjGW
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90 days before harvest to be safe (in my experience)
e20 gets a bad rap, maybe rightly so if its used improperly. but i have seen flower that was treated with e20 early in veg (90+ days prior to harvest, 1 ml/gal or less) come back with clean lab results
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Asymptomatic tissue is still infected. If you have to try to take cuts far away from infection sites, the problem isn’t eradicated.
Eagle 20 eradicates powdery mildew. Within 48 hours. It’s nuts how fast it works.
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I had problems with PM too and recently I listened to the PotCast with mr. Bob Hemphill and he swears by potassium silicate.
I bought it recently and so far so good, so I would recommend that. I tried h2o2, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), potassium bicarbonate, neem oil, and besides potassium bicarbonate (which can be harsh on the plants) I found that others don’t really work that well in the long run.
Sulphur is the one thing I didn’t try yet and I would think very effective against fungi/pests.
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Eagle 20 works but isent something I would ever use, I get rid of it just fine with my current methods without cloning, was just offering some advice for those who might be having a harder time with it. Been alot of issues in California with rooms testing hot for eagle 20 and it’s not worth the risk to me but to each there own everybodies situation is different. I have health issues already so things like eagle 20 and avid scare the crap out of me.
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PM is not Systemic, it’s a fungal infection and can deffently be cured.
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Do you have any data saying PM is in the plant? I posted some articles that say otherwise.
Eagle 20 huh? That’s ornamental use only, systemic, etc. I think you need to inform people about the toxicity of the products you’re recommending.
And they should scare the crap out of you. Peoples’ willingness to spray their ‘medicine’ with ‘poison’ just baffles me. There are plenty of other options out there.
More reasons why you should never, ever spray Eagle 20 on your plants!
https://cleanlight.nl/why-you-should-never-ever-spray-myclobutanil-on-cannabis-plants/
Myclobutanil is an effective component in some pesticide sprays. That is, it kills fungi such as powderymildew and budrot. You find Myclobutanil in sprays such as “ Eagle 20 EW “. This fungicide belongs to the family of triazoles.
Some countries are contemplating a complete ban on Myclobutanil, because of concerns in the medical profession with regards to triazole resistant Aspergillus. Even so, Eagle 20 EW and similar products are applied frequently in conventional agriculture such as the farming of grapes.
When Myclobutanil is applied to tobacco or to marijuana, very serious health problems do occur: Myclobutanil releases highly toxic gases if heated past its boiling point of 205°C (400°F) Butane lighters, such as those used to ignite marijuana for consumption, produce temperatures in excess of 450°C. These toxic gases include hydrogen chloride, hydrogen cyanide, and nitrogen oxide. This is why Eagle 20 EW is strictly forbidden by law on those crops in most countries.
Myclobutanil
Myclobutanil is an active ingredient in the Eagle 20 pesticide brand, which prevents brown patch and dollar spot in established turf, ornamental plants, and certain fruits. This fungicide is considered “slightly hazardous” by the World Health Organization, due to its potential for nervous system problems and toxic fumes.
Exposure to Myclobutanil can result in symptoms like allergic dermatitis, vomiting, itchiness, nausea, headache, skin rash, nosebleed, and eye irritation. A two-generation study on rats found that Myclobutanil decreased pup weight gain, and increased incidence of stillborn.
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Agreed. Can’t get this in canada, had to use an American friend, for Amazon to ship to him. an forward to me. Haven’t had to battle PM since. PM loves squash family plants outdoors up here, gonna use actinovate for all the gardens outdoors this year, works great indoors. Treat your soil mix at the same time you would add myco (transplant and initial mix cook).
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Be careful on actinovate use outdoors, I hear it kills honeybees. I’d only use it indoors personally
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Ive heard wettable sulfur works really good for PM.
Guru on DGC recommends it. Check it out…
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I’ve never tried this, but saw it when I was looking for DE…
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/safer-s-sulphur-dust-300-g-0591130p.html
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Yes, Eagle 20.
You’ll be fine. If you’ve ever eaten an apple, you’ve ingested far more pesticides than anything on my product.
Don’t get it on your skin and don’t drink it, like any pesticide.
No one has ever gotten sick from anything I’ve grown, and they never will.
In the real world, things are more complex than “medicine” and “poison”. A pesticide is just a tool like any other. Yes, there are other options, they just don’t work or discourage the mold rather than eliminating it. Sulfur burners work OK but make the weed taste like shit. Because of the sulfur vapor on the bud.
I actually grow weed. I am fairly certain no one at “merryjane.com” does. Looking at some of their articles “Stoned Sex: Who’s Up For a Psychedelic Threesome” makes me think they have no fucking clue what they are talking about.
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Wow lots of great info here, thanks everyone.
I’ve read about eagle 20 before, but can’t get it in Canada so I guess it’s moot for me regardless. A friend also mentioned something called Nova. It seems similar from the info on their site, but I can’t find anywhere to buy that either.
If I were to use a systemic like that I would probably kill everything except a couple mothers, hit them with the systemic then veg them out for weeks and take new clones to start over. I’m not sure if would ever use it without reading more first…
I’m seeing alot of commonalities between things that people say are effective. Rosemary oil, citrus oil, potassium silicate and a few others. I might just try to mix them all into a super PM killer and try that.
I’m really not sure at this point I’m really considering just killing everything. This old house/basement must be just ridden with the spores and I can’t foresee a way to get rid of them permanently. I was hoping somebody had a magic bullet, but sadly I don’t think it exists!
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I have a question.
Do the infected leaves have any spots on them, or no?
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MY reply is based upon my experience. I have read both ways.
I spent an entire YEAR trying to remove PM from ONE PLANT. Believe I went 19 cuts deep, treated 100’s of times, was able to prevent spreading to my other plants, but did not “cure” the plant of PM. Nothing I did cured the plant.
Yes, didnt see it for months at a time, but it always always came back .
I did not (would not) try Eagle 20, just against my grain. Now, I have a plant that has pm, it gets tossed ASAP
Just my opinion, we know how those go…lol
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In my indoor grows, I have always caught pm in the very early stages, and have successfully cured plants. This has only effected freshly cut or otherwise vulnerable clones, never a mature plant in veg or flower.
It usually starts as a tiny mark on the stem of the clone at the soil/waterline. the first line of defense is to throw out any effected plants that are not essential to your grow.
step one- dunk clone in 1/3 rubbing alcohol 2/3 water. someone on another forum taught me this trick. in the ornamental horticulture industry, this alcohol dunk is used on every fresh cutting to kill surface spores and pathogens.
step two- hydrogen peroxide dunk. 1/3 to 1/2 dilution with pure water.
step three- neem oil dunk. use warm water and dish soap to emulsify.
step four- dunk in fresh tap water with a cap-full of hydrogen peroxide.
The clones will look clean and healthy at this point.
step five- neem spray at the beginning of dark period every day for five days, then every other day for 7 more days.
Running an air filter ambient in the grow room at all times (not a charcoal or scent scrubber filter, but an actual hepa air filter for human use) will remove environmental spores from your grow space.
outdoors, on the other hand, I have had seasons where it is a constant battle to abate powdery mildew on large plants, but the mildew will always come back as soon as treatment is stopped.
I think environmental conditions play a huge role.
hydro/ synthetic nutrient grows are more susceptible, and less likely to recover than plants grown in organic soil.
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