Hadn’t thought of this before, could it be heat damage from my oil heater? I mean it doesn’t go above 82 in there but this looks weird. After I scope this 1 plant today for bugs I think I’ll cull it… it’s just not growing.
Before culling I would trim all those “ugly looking” leaves and see how she reacts in the new growth… 
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I’m with George on this one: Old growth that has had issues won’t get better, the old damaged growth can continue to degrade because of the issues it had earlier in the cycle. Let’s focus on getting the plant to thrive and dial it in so that the new growth looks as good as possible.
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My guess is probably not.
If I had to pinpoint just one thing it would be the low humidity.
Low humidity causes the plant to uptake more liquid than usual.
If that solution is not a weak solution this can cause the plant to take up too much ferts in the liquid.
This can cause the burning/discoloration of your leaves.
Unless you need the room, let her live and see if she recovers.
I am pretty sure there are no pest issues showing.
So you should be safe, but in the end if you want her gone, give her the ax. 
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Alright thanks Shaggy, I cranked the humidity up! It’s tough to keep it up, while exhausting outside but I guess $1.15 of distilled water a day is just the cost of happy plants 
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If you have a fan for circulation, you may be able to decrease the amount of time you vent outside.
So to be more clear here…
If you are not having issues with high humidity even at night.
You are sure plants will not burn from excessive heat coming from the light.
You are positive the plants are far enough from the light that cutting back on the ventilation will not cause them to burn.
You should in theory be able to cut back but not turn off your ventilation system.
Especially if you only have a few plants.
You can probably leave the vent off during lights on, but lights off in a tent means moisture, especially if there is a temp difference outside.
So an on and off-cycle throughout the night may be still needed.
You can monitor the humidity to get a better idea of what it is like in the tent at night.
Not totally sure and I don’t like to tell you to change more than one thing at a time, so do this at your own discretion or don’t, that is fine too…LOL
But probably the quick fix is to lower your nute strength when you are in a low-humidity environment.
I would probably do half strength for a week or 2 then bump things up slowly to 3/4 and if you need more then, go from there.
If you think you can wait a week or so before lowering the food you can then know if the higher humidity was effective.
If you change both at the same time you will really not know which one had the positive effect.
That is the reason making 1 change at a time is always best. 
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Is this going in a humidifier? If so, why not use tap instead and keep a dollar in your pocket?
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Hey, I use a sonic-cool mist humidifier & Everyone told me a white film would get all over my plants & electronics/light if I use tap water @anon20530495
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Would ro work ?
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Yes but I don’t yet have an RO system. Any other ideas of a cheaper/easier method to get water, or should I get a different humidifier?
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Over here aquarium shops sell ro
You just bring your own container and fill it up from pump in shop
Like 10-20 cents per litre
Personally I don’t chase rh
Mine is low in veg and start of flower till plant mass fills tent and it rises by itself ( 40 rh in my room befor plants grow more mass to raise in in mid flower kind of )
If the plant is growing in 50rh it will grow leafs to suit ( usually smaller than if rh was higher )
I find problems only occur if rh fluctuates all the time and plant has to constantly adjust with big swings up and down
Like when you let clones sit in propagator too long it grows leafs to suit the high rh , then you remove lid and drastically drop rh
Plant then has to ditch the end of leafs in order to control the amount of stomata to suit new conditions
Your spraying was maybe raising rh around plants and then rh was dropin soon after , causing stress , plants like stability
Low rh equals smaller leafs so less stomata to cope with higher easier transpiring
High rh equals bigger leafs so more stomata to cope with less more difficult transpiring
Damaged leafs equals rh up and down as plant is stressed trying to adjust all the time
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Run a dehumidifier. The water it collects is 0 ppm
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Gotcha! Not familiar with that style, but there could be merit there. Have you ever ran tap through it perhaps outside the tent as a test run?
I also think you’ll see improvement if you can keep the humidity up. This is a tough time of the year depending where you’re located. So damn dry!
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Ok got microscope, doesn’t look like Bugs or bug shells frankly
Another picture, are the little water droplet looking holes the “Stomatas” I’ve heard so much about? Neat
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Your leafs look clean , no eggs and no poo : )
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Nice shots! Which microscope did you end up purchasing?
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I got this one @herojuana.tom
Two things about it. (1) In order to use your phone/livestream the viewing screen for it, you have to install an App & connect to a WiFi Hotspot the microscope itself creates.
(2) You need to have very steady hands if you’re going to take pictures in your tent. Assuming it lasts awhile I suppose it’s worth the $35.
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Sweet! Thanks @Gonzo, it looks pretty good to me.
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Residue from a foliar spray?
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