I dont know man, what info has been provided seems like a deficiency of some sort. Yeah, thats rudely vague and especially unhelpful, I know. The problem online, as it has been for near 25 years, is too many cooks comments on your kitchen, lol. In the end only you can decipher your issue yourself, learn from mistakes and adjust your grow parameters accordingly.
If I were standing in your room, I’d offer better guidance.
I know, we just provide info and it’s up to you to chose the one you think may help. Deficiency may also come by a nutrient lockout, an excess of one nutrients may block others, those burnt tips and borders, not to say those fried leaves point me to that direction …
Now is it too hot from too many microbials or they are just actively processing too many nutrients? Next time I think I’m going to water the soil and let it cook for 3 weeks or so before putting the plants into my raised beds. Also thinking I should use starter soil for this size pot instead of a live soil.
The only time i used prefertlized soil I fried my plants (by just adding more nutes 
), that’s why I know how they look like. I never run organic since because you never know what’s in soil and it’s not easy to correct-amend any excess or deficiency.
You could do a slurry test and check the ppm’s, perhaps only to discard my theory. I ended by flushing my plants so they lost all their nutrients and found out it’s a waste to buy enriched soil. I know adding only water must be a luxury but my knowledge is far enough to perform that without ruining my plants … 
I dont grow in soil for this reason.
Too many variables.
When I did grow in soil I had issues until I started adding in O2 into my water.
Grab an air pump and saturate that water in O2 before you water.
It fixed my drooping/dowing plants
hahah I feel you. I have not added any nutes yet just the soil on its own plus microbials. The science says its possible so I’m going to keep trying until I figure it out. I have seen it done hahaha. I’ve also made my own soil before where I was able to fully control the variables, just takes up so much room to do it. . . .
It looks like the plants are root bound and need a larger pot. When plants outgrow the container they’re in its cause a lot of pH/lockout issues because the roots are all trying to change the ph to get a specific nutrient, but the proximity of other roots trying to do the same thing but for a different nutrient is causing lockout.
We can argue all day till the cows come home. Get us that floor temp pronto
Not true that you don’t use cal/mag in organic growing. Many nutrients can take months even years to break down into useable form for plants. I did organic cal/mag drenches for 2 straight years before my soil had enough in useable form for my plants on it’s own. Whether or not hot soil is a problem, you don’t have to sacrifice a cannabis grow and have shit bud in the meantime. Also, if it is too hot the immediate problem is a cal/mag deficiency which can be fixed.
The soil temp is 68F still have not been able to figure out a way to measure the floor temp haha
@George this is why I get yearly soil tests. So I know exactly what is in my soil.
You ever seen build a soil 10x10 youtube series? He puts young plants into his super soil and gives them every myco/whathaveyou under the sun right off the bat. It’s gotta be either watering or ph issue, or just nutes are depleted but probably one of the first two.
What is bush doctor? Regular old Epsom salts cost like a dollar. All this fancy crap they sell at ridiculous prices nowadays cracks me up. I’ve even seen bags of epsoms with a fancy bag that says for plants at a 10 time mark up. Same stuff, different packaging at rip off prices. lol
Exactly, my beds are amended yearly and I’ve never had to wait to plant or sacrifice a grow to “hot” soil. To clarify when I hear the term too hot it usually means high nitrogen. I see no clawing on your plants.
I use all foxfarm nutes trio bembe and cal mag for the reason they are all Ph’d at 6.5 feed twice a week keeps my soil at 6.5 easy peasy
He’s using water only style soil, Stonington’s. So far everyone I’ve seen use it has had problems. Maybe it’s not the be all end all for cannabis growing. Don’t know. At this point, I’m truly curious what is gonna work at this stage of the game. lol
Pot bound. Especially if you’re still vegging. They need bigger pots.
TBH I greatly dislike build a soil as company but will maybe watch the video out of curiosity lol. I never had issues with plants going into my live soil in outdoor raised beds. They were happy as could be once they got transferred from pots. I think I’m overwatering the pots. Raised beds are much more forgiving.
Interesting, how many people have you heard having problems with it? I was going to use Bio 365 or Kis, ended up getting the Stonington blend for free. Might run some other beds with different soil. I’ve made subcools mix and my own version of it before too and never ran into any issues outdoors.
I’m still trying to find my bearings in soil but from what I see it looks like the plants are rootbound as well as overwatered. I skimmed through the comments and that seems to be the general consensus. I would back off the watering and also have you tried filling one of those same containers with dry soil vs wet. The weight will definitely help you with judging whether or not you need water. I had to back off the other day myself! 
Also why are you PHing your water? I’ve read quite a bit about organics and most of what I see says that the soil will basically buffer to a proper PH. I have yet to PH my water. Hope you get it all sorted!