Got a copy of your water analysis? I’ll have a go at it if you do. I used mostly rainwater for the C99 grow, no calcium except from an occasional well watering which contains high TDS of Mg and Ca bicarbonate salts.
Praying mantis enjoying his C99 perch.
Hard to find up to date data, and hardness isn’t included in my annual reports, but about 20-22 grains per gallon, or about 350-380 ppm depending on time of year. pH is well over 8 out of the tap.
Big issues with precipitate and iron staining. I am always fighting mineral crust in my toilet. My shower is only clean for a matter of days after an acid treatment lol. My water buckets are literally lined with a brown limestone crust.
It can be worked around no problem, but you can’t use nutrients designed for soft/RO water either. Even most “hardwater” formulas like GH Flora and one part nutrients like veg/bloom have tons of calcium still. Veg Bloom Hardwater/Tap is 7% Ca for example.
That’s tough. There are in line iron filters you can install, you probably know that. They may work on an ion exchange drill, don’t know. Only other solution is a whole house R/O system, but they too have their issues.
Some of the vendors have tech help for work arounds. I know Peters does.
I have a large rain water collection system at my greenhouse and an ass kicking all in one pump from Italy, Leader brand. Love it!
Hate to give away my age, but I’ve been using Dyna-Gro foods for 40 years.
Folks are resistant to change, especially when “everyone does it”, but there is no need to change into different NPK values depending on the life cycle of the plant, that is pure marketing stuff. For example, Foliage Pro, my fave, will produce as much yield as when switching to the “Bloom” foods. In fact, the problem with many gardens is late stage leaf drop induced in part by high P or K foods.
This is switch-a-roo stuff is a racket, designed to sell more product. Here’s one of the ditties I posted at OG 20 years ago.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 5-35-20, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is “how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?”
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It’s an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not marketing specific “bloom” foods.
I rotate fert blends as the plant requires them, not because it is “the thing to do.” For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you’re getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter’s Pro Blossom Booster is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack’s Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
Uncle Ben
Can you expound a little more on this? Thinking more of veg and into stretch, though. In one of your posts above, you mentioned that you wouldn’t rely on Maxibloom as a 1 part to carry you through a grow. My guess is you’re speaking more to the veg and stretch periods as Maxi is roughly 1-3-3, similar to Pro Blossom Booster you referenced. My thought is you’re saying the N, and possibly micros, are insufficient until you hit bloom. I use Maxibloom in flower, and have assumed this myself which is why I haven’t tried to ride it through the entire life cycle of the plant. I have to acknowledge the KISS method some use with it as a 1 part, however. What are your thoughts?
For an easy off the shelf solution I like Dyna Gro. Outdoor plants like it too but I use cheaper dry salts for those. MKP and KNO3 and urea based 29-0-0 lawn fertilizer does the trick for all the outside non-cannabis plants in soil. Tomatoes go crazy for MKP.
I use the Grow 7-9-5 pretty much exclusively from seedling to harvest now, and it’s only 2% Ca.
With the Potassium nitrate it ends up around 9-9-11…fairly balanced ratios, almost all nitrate N.
A big issue with the 2 part dry formulas is it’s hard to get enough N without adding more Ca. Someone should make a super hard water hydro nutrient…I’d buy it.
I have used 24-8-16 for a full grow cycle. It was fine.
I still like fancy nutes for my indoor but had no issues.
It was gasp miracle grow.
For the past two years I’ve been sharing my plants and seeds with a friend of mine. He’s around 70 years old and had no knowledge of sensimilla growing. I hooked him up with a 2x2x4 tent, a 100 watt led light, a ph tester, soil, and 3 bottles of fox farm liquid nutes, autofem seeds and intructions on how to use it all.
As soon as we got him set up I realized this dude won’t be taking any advice on how to do this.
he started with a regimen of some miracle grow that worked on his flowers and nonstop tapwater and managed to grow some plants- but not well. He then realized on his own he was overwatering (something I had been telling him) and to my suprise that did it. We still have some adventures with his grows but the mans grown some pot he’s been really proud of in that time using MG plus whatever else he throws in.
To put a disney spin on this I’ve learned more from him than he has from me, but only because he won’t listen.
I’m saying that N is just as important as K until harvest. Don’t know how to say this in a nice way, but most if not all growers, especially newbies, have fallen into the phony “cannabis specific” nutrient trap. I’ve been preaching this position for 25 years on a dozen or so forums. Still believe it, cause it’s true.
Don’t over think this. Give our flowering foliar plant a balanced food from start to finish and don’t forget, it’s leaves that drive production, not marketing hype.
Won’t argue against any of that. Was more curious your reasoning for this statement.
Not looking to argue against this notion either. More just want to know your opinion about the NPK of Maxibloom and why it rubs you wrongly as a 1 part fert. Trying to pick your brain here boss as you’ve been at this longer than myself.
N is too low. Cannabis is a foliar plant so it needs plenty of N that supports max chlorophyll development.
Years ago I grew TFD’s O. Haze outdoors in pots. They got a slow release 19-4-9.
If you’re satisfied with Maxibloom then don’t switch.
I have been under the impression that NPK ratios should be:
312 for veg
132 for bloom
Most cannabis specific nutes are along those lines, but its all the micro nutes that vary or are missing from some brands.
Deficiency charts showing leaf problems all link macro and micro for a healthy feeding schedule as they work together.
Maxibloom has no micros package either. All of the foods I use do. 16 essential elements, no reason to chingaling folks. That’s what cannabis vendors do.
Again, you’ve been programmed to over think this for one thing only - sales.
Many of it’s elements aren’t in the analysis, but are in the ingredients. Ammonium molybdate, Zinc sulfate, Potassium borate, Manganese sulfate, Copper sulfate. Fertilizer labelling laws are weird.
Only thing it’s missing is chlorine and sodium, but most water has enough of both, and sodium exists as impurities in the other minerals.
Dyna-gro is the way. Here is the breakdown of their 3 main parts. I too am a Fol-pro all the way grower too.
and Maxibloom
-GH
P.S.
@OldUncleBen @vernal @GramTorino @anon20530495
Here is an excellent resource to check analysis of almost any product. I do not recommend opening this on mobile.
http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/hitlist.lasso
You’re right. That’s so weird not to post a guaranteed analysis. Most folks don’t care, I do, checking out the ingredients carefully before I buy. MaxiBloom™ Product Label – General Hydroponics
Make sure your products contain boron, albeit in very small amounts. It’s a very important micro required to support the reproductive cycle. It’s toxic to plant health if over applied. I need to play with some Solubor next time.
I hit all my tropical trees and vineyard with Solubor about a month before they start blooming. Have not run a control group but it seems to work fine.
