That light is definitely too close IMO. Minimum 24 inches away at this stage, even if it’s set low. These aren’t like CFLs where you can put them right on top of the plants.
Soil looks pretty dense, anything in there for aeration?
Are there holes in the bottom of your cup? I prefer to have drainage in anything I plant in. @Pigeonman even invented the “speed cup”
I’m guessing what you’re seeing is either light stress and/or that the roots can’t move through the media.
Thanks for the reply , My holes for aeration are too small for sure , so that’s a potential problem.
I actually dont have holes on the bottom for drainage. I could add those maybe
The soil, I dont have any perlite unfortunately , its bag of organic soil I forget what kind though, it does seem a little dense , when its dry water will pool at the top for 10 seconds or so before it actually drains.
Good to know about the light, I’ll move that up to 24 inches when the next Light cycle arrives.
Cheers mate, I’m doing a grow without anyway to test for that, super low budget grow because I’m in between jobs right now with no savings, but anyway I have been using tap water and a little bit of bottled water.
I’ve fed no nutrients to the soil aside from whats already in the soil
You can use these pH test strips, they are cheap and good enough, if your pH is out of range your plant won’t process the nutes already in the soil, cotyledon is yellowing too son, plant is feeding from him, that’s why I suspect a pH issue …
Hey boss , upon further research of the strains I am growing I realized the Siberian Ruderalis was not a photoperiod and is actually auto. Since autos should be in their final pot I was already messing up by having her in a solo cup I suppose.
I transplanted, had a little issue with that as the bottom roots all the way at the bottom of the cup separated from the rest of the soil breaking some roots
If this where to be a PH issue how do I fix a PH issue? flushing??
although I suspect this is just a rough transplant
