They’re looking a little hungry today, but I’m not the best judge of a seedling. I’m messing with my new camera trying to get a camera with a DSLR setting or at least a white balance 
. Otherwise I’ll be using my broken phone for pics still.
On that note new phone pics come once I can get it properly setup with camera settings.
The 1st girl to show will be put into the 3 gallon pot…the boys will have to be killed or if you want to seed a girl (or her clones) put them somewhere else to veg longer
Yes and no…bigger pot to start so the roots were able to expand faster so its 1 node ahead of the others making it appear its doing better though the 1st finger leaves are starting to yellow looking for more nutrients. Whereas the ones with restricted roots from the get go will catch up faster having nutrients they can now use more efficiently with a more dense root system
A bit though its more that they are settling in expanding their roots into the new soil…this is the deviation from the plan that I was talking about last week 
We now know their threshold in the 1" pot is 3 days in your environment making today watering day for them as they adjust to the new pots…6Tb plain water around the edge giving 1/2Tb at a time so the soil absorbs the water instead of running right out.
The plan for the rest of the week is:
Thursday: Grow #2: 1/2tsp per 2cup…6Tb each
Friday: transition foliar: 1/2 tsp per 2c
Saturday: Light flip
Sunday: 6Tb plain water each
I missed the opportunity to check on mine this morning as I stayed up too late and got waaaay too inebriated celebrating my older sons 18th birthday last night so i’ll have to wait until later on tonight
Always the best celebration on the 18th. On mine I had my only ever taste of real wagyu steak. Not sure the grade, but I know it was so marbled it was more fat than meat. I crave the day I getting anything close to A5 grade wagyu again. I doubt mine was, but I know it was more marbled than any steak I’ve seen outside of A5 grade.
As for the plan I’ll get the water ready for them. It’s early enough to get warm water next door
Mmmmmm yum! Unfortunately, my boys don’t like steak so instead we had burritos and pizza with root beer floats and German chocolate cake while we played spoons and headbandz with an occasional smoke break 
Managed to finish with 2 minutes to spare to take a picture of them once I cleared the tent. Half a tablespoon at a time going around in a circle 12 times per pot. No runnoff, but I was not perfect with the 7.39mL scoop.
Forgot about daylight savings so its a bit later than I thought it would be…
Lucky 7’s…thirsty though tomorrow is feeding day so went ahead and fed them Grow #1 (1/2 tsp in 2c water)
Lucky Charms…20 min after feeding
Their sex isn’t definitive as of yet though should show any day now as the new growth is working on maturing. I also went ahead and watered the clover as its been about a week
Slow and steady 
Yeah. Yesterday morning without thinking and forgetting about it until too late I had switched the timer to stay at 7pm-1am my time and then realized my mistake
The plants don’t care about daylight savings time.
They got an extra hour yesterday. Still on 18/6 though. I made sure after lights off that I had it from 6am-12 on the timer now 
They look happy and don’t seem to want for anything more. The control I probably should have fed, but I gave them plain water again for now. I meant yesterday obviously. I’m not going to water so soon after
No they don’t…I don’t change my timers unless there is a heat issue (on during day) or in the flower cycle though I try to shoot for the times I am mostly free to tend to them…an hour +/- only messes with my mind
That’s great! They should be n their way to start to grow again with lots of “foot” room to gain a node every 3-4 days now
So far so good 
Go ahead and remove the shriveled up leaves on the runt…the yellow leaves on the other 2 are almost ready to be taken as well though I’d leave them on for a few more days as they are giving nutrients the roots haven’t found yet
Will do!
Soon it’ll be time for them to shine
So last night while I was looking for sex, I decided to go ahead and top (from 6 to 3 nodes), lst then stick them back under 18hrs light before they get serious about flowering…
This will allow all remaining 6 nodes to grow out instead of having a single top and can reduce it down to 4 nodes if I have to for clones. The tops were prepped for cloning and will continue under 12/12 for sexing and hopefully rooting…
Now they will be stalled for ~4-5 days as they repair the damage, rearrange nutrient uptake, show sex and start growing again…add in another 6 days for each of the nodes to become cola’s and gain a couple nodes soooo in ~2 wks i’ll transplant the known girls into the 3 gallon pot to resume flowering.
This does change my timeline a bit:
10-14 days seedling
7 days early veg
7-10 days light flip to force sex
10-12 days extra veg for new tops instead of stretch
2-4 days settle in 3gallon pot
10-14 days stretch…take clones if need to
10-14 days bud set
35-42 days fattening and ripening
Harvest: The week of May 26th instead of the 12th
If I didn’t need clones for seeding then I would have waited for the girls to be confirmed then lst through the stretch to let the bottom nodes catch up…either way works though cutting into them does add a bit more time while they adjust. I bring this up as you mentioned you would like to try cloning …if you wanted to try it this round, i’ll need to adjust your timeline adding 2 wks from the get go making it more fluid than my Lucky’s or did you want to wait and try it next round?
I’d like to try this round of course. I might need the extra time anyways as you’ll see in my journal entry in a few.
Ok i’ll adjust your timeline then adding 2wks so don’t flip the light on Saturday
Whelp, its been 5 days since the up pot so they just started to grow again and should pick up speed now adding a new node every 3-4 days…they are also looking thirsty which makes sense as tomorrow will be 3 days since watering though i’d like you to push them til Thursday… we will see how they look tomorrow and go from there
Okay. Thursday it is. Let’s see how they handle it. I was busy, so I can’t show pictures, but Zelda and Tulip perked up nicely after I watered them. I watered with warm 86-93f water. I sprayed the surface first and the soil took the water much better. I checked the soil temperature and it was 65f at the bottom and 80f at the top of the soil. Seems Zelda likes her soil warm.
I checked up after a Half-hour and they looked much better than my pics in the update earlier.
No plant likes that hot of water - are you trying to kill them? I am sorry for sounding harsh though ~65-70F is where roots like to sit at and uptake water which is why many will wait 12-24 hrs for their water to get to room temp…close to 80f and your boiling the roots let alone, 90f
That’s the temp I worked up to, but after I water with it the soil only goes up to 80f tops. It’s been really cold and the soil was getting colder by the day. I’ve watered them with hotter than that and they perked up nearly immediately after. I can’t explain why, but they like it for some reason. I know the soil likes to take a lot more warm water instead of cold.
When u use water that’s 75-80 it just sits on top forever and leaks out the sides after going through. Through the grow my water has been varying degrees and room temperature is not a good one for my soil. It dries out within the day after and if the plant was thirsty it gets worse after as it didn’t get to drink. I’ve been watering with 80+ water since. Tulip is just not caring too much about what I do honestly. She grows all the same I’d the water is ice cold or hot.
Maybe you can help me understand why my plants don’t get stressed out from warm water though. The soil keeps the water for Longer too if I use warn water. I’ve just been using trial and error and I landed at 90f water range. It goes in that temp, but the soil never goes above 80f. I can’t explain it at all.
It’s just Zelda that hot BTW. Her soil must be hot or something IDK
Short answer:
The hot water is limiting the uptake of water, nutrients and oxygen so it stays wet longer and cools faster slowing down the plants processes.
Since you believe your soil is drying out too fast, cover the top of the pots with cardboard or straw so your not losing as much water to evaporation
Long answer:
Cold water shocks them so they cannot transport the water through their systems making it so they can’t drink to transpire until the water warms up. The only way to remove the excess water in a cold soil is through evaporation…Cold water can also make beneficial microorganisms go dormant so is generally a no-no.
Hot water limits the uptake of oxygen and evaporates faster from the soil so the plant is unable to create hydrogen bonds to transport water, oxygen and nutrients through the xylem and out the stomata’s so they dehydrate unable to retain moisture. Hot water can also kill beneficial microorganisms and damage shallow root systems though it can also kill the bad guys too like mealy bugs, aphids, thrips etc.
**fun fact, if you need ice cubes in a hurry use hot water as it cools faster in a phenomenon called The Mpemba Effect: the overall mass decreases as some of the water evaporates as it cools
Room temperature water IS THE BEST because the root zone does not go through constantly fluctuating temperatures and allows the plant to transpire correctly. Lets take a look at the process…
Water gets added to the soil-> water mixes with nutrients in the soil micro organsisms have broken down → the oxygen in the water and drying soil makes a bond with the nutrients (opposites attract forming a hydrogen bond through cohesion) → the roots uptake the bonded nutrients into the xylem through adhesion-> the xylem acts as a straw sucking the water up through the plant → guard cells surrounding every stoma in the leaves takes in water and potassium ions so they expand to start photosynthesis → swollen guard cells opens the stoma → water evaporates through the stoma cooling the canopy while carbon dioxide enters in → once the plant senses the dark cycle the guard cells release the water so the stoma closes allowing the plant to rest…or reduces photosynthesis if lights on and underwatered causing leaf wilt or if overwatered leading to leaf ballooning.
The rate of plant growth and development is dependent upon plant transpiration, the temperature in the environment as well as, the plants root zone which needs to stay ~5-10f cooler than the canopy for efficient growth and canopy cooling capability.
The plants must strike a balance between conserving water and bringing in sufficient amounts of CO2 and oxygen through the soil therefore we must strike a balance of watering frequency/amount, adding nutrients at the right time, temp etc…it cannot do so if the environment is constantly changing whether it be in shock, cold/hot roots, too hot, over/under watered etc.
I would use a thinner mulch or even mulchy dirt if your not careful with cardboard you will get molds underneath it mulch will retain water,the top will look dry but a inch to half inch down will still be moist mulch also breaks down into more nutrients as it decomposes. @OniTenshu Check out my threads you will see what I mean I have two type I’ve been working with. Your dirt looks like it’s pretty compacted to when you have a lot of clay materials or really any dirt the clay and some others soon as you start watering them it can packs down and that’s what a lot of your absorption problem is it’s too compact for it to absorb down you’re probably using very mineral-rich dirt that’s compact it down so if you end up transplanting get something a little more Mulch and mix in with that type of dirt you have and it’ll make a great dirt for rooting. And love yalls thred pretty dang good @MomOnTheRun your like top chef up in this beast lol much love yall
It’s compact a little, but it yields to mild pressure. When it’s dry I mean it’s dry. Not any moisture left in the dirt. As far as microorganisms are concerned whatever is in my soil either left or dried out for the environment outside nearby most likely. I’ll have to make video next watering to show you all what I’ve been saying. I can also use my plant free ones that have been sitting out to show too. Only the ones with well established clover had no issues with topsoil. I only know there is a issue with the soil because of the clover in Zelda’s pot. I landed in this temperature range after water that’s cold to the touch won’t go in the soil. Like for a infant I test with the back of my wrist and a IR thermometer. By the time I’m halfway finished watering the water gets cold anyways.
When I say I have no real control over my environment I’m not kidding. No windows are open and there’s a breeze indoors. The heat is on 76f and it’s cold in here. Though it may be because my skin is nearly constantly 100f and no I’m not sick and this is normal. Because of my metabolism I just run slightly warmer.
Overall the lack of control over my environment frustrates me, but I’ve had to let it not bug me farther than that as since I have no control over it in the least getting anxious or stressed about it won’t help. It took way too much reasoning with myself to achieve this mentality.
I’d like it if my soil wasn’t so tough to manage, but it may be my environment as I used fox farm soil with happy frog and it dries out just like any other potting soil in my environment. If it’s not water retaining and too close to loam it just dries out to dust in the air. My first grow soil retained too much moisture, but it also was in plastic pots. The potting soil dries out too fast in fabric pots and stays just right in plastic pots.
It’s been on my mind for awhile, but would mixing in some garden soil or something help my soil? I won’t be able to do it until after harvest, but I know my soil is not right. It lost all it’s fluff, so maybe compost?
I’ll do my best to add pictures to show what I’m talking about to help show what I’ve been saying as I don’t know if I’ve been expressing just how troublesome the soil is. Unless I’m supposed to be watering with 1 tablespoon at a time even on a 7 gallon pot. That would be unreasonable
At that point I’d just get or make a dripper to water for me.
I’m just confused not arguing if it wasn’t clear. I’m just not sure why my soil won’t keep moisture for longer than a day on average before drying out in 3 days. After 4 days the plants droop and wilt. It seems as if they take a sip and there rest is lost to the air. I will say outside of the tent I don’t have any of these issues. I’m not going to say the tent isn’t tuned, but fuck it I am. I don’t have the tent dialed in right if that’s the case. If something is growing in the pot it won’t dry out like the soil in the tent. Is the negative pressure too strong? I don’t think a tent could act like a vacuum chamber, but that’s basically what it seems like is happening here.
