So I have a few plants of a 3-way Se Asian hybrid made with 70’s genetics. A couple of the plants are growing normally, but there are 3 of them with a strange deficiency. I don’t know if they have a virus or if they are just extremely inbred and have low vigor and nutrient issues now.
Here’s a picture. Every single fan leaf had this same look. Most were removed. Leaves are hanging down a bit like magnesium deficiency( that slight clawing), but they have had plenty of it, and all of my plants are in the same exact mix with nothing else having an issue.
The plants were just Moved from one gallon into two gallon containers about two weeks ago and I have noticed no change, with the exception being the uppermost leaves beginning to pray.
Any help will be appreciated.
The deficiency started at the bottom and moved up, With each leaf getting the same edges, And lower leaves gradually getting worse. So it’s definitely a mobile nutrient missing if it is indeed a nutrient issue.
@Redrum92 Rain water with 15 drops of cal mag per gallon at least half the waterings. There should be plenty of calcium and magnesium in the mix. There’s both pelletized and powdered dolomite lime, bone meal…
Potassium for me, now if they are highly inbred i’m unable to say if these blue hues in both pics are usual or not. But for sure it’s not anthocyanins concentrations ^^
HOT!!! The soil is getting hot and overwatered, don’t add cal mag to their water, extra nutes will only make it worse. If you’re a gardener by nature, Slide the smallest one out of the pot and check the roots, some kind of bacteria is growing there. The pots need to be shaded, black pots absorb more heat because of the color, the way I handle this is by digging a hole and putting 2/3’s of the pot in the ground.
When it’s really hot more water is used by the plant to try and stay cool, the leaves burn up around the edges as the leaf gets overworked and starts to fail.
Moving the pots to some shade so they get less full sun for a week will also work.
Water by weight, pick the pot up if it’s light water it, if it’s heavy don’t water. Use the pots that are growing well to weigh for proper watering.
You’re a good grower so I’m sure you’ll work it out. Have a great weekend.
The blue green pheno is the happy one. Bigger plants,keeping pace with other Sativas. No deficiencies, no issues. That light colored growth happened almost overnight and had hardly seen the sun yet. It’s the pole phenos having issues. Same age and only 8-12 inches. @George maybe. I remember those Jamaican plants that wouldn’t take off until they were in garden soil in the ground. @Heliosphear thanks. The plants have been indoors for the most part, packed in close with other plants or at least with others shade. Root system is small and undersized, but no overwatering, no hot pots. That’s what I thought it was a month and a half ago, and I let the soil thoroughly dry between waterings to make sure that’s not what it was. . Temperatures have been 50’s-70 for the most part with just a couple 80ﾟ days in there but the plants behave like this no matter where they are and regardless of temperatures. Indoors I sometimes got warmer, but never too hot for an equatorial. I transplanted from 1 gallon into 2 and used soil that can’t be too hot. The plants were born on february eighteenth, so almost 4 months old now
On reflection I think that soil is too strong or dense for them. They need garden soil. Going through this process with everyone has had me go through the process in my own head. It has to be that the soil is to dense/ hot for a tired old 70’s ibl. Could be potassium related. I’m gonna dump the plants out of the pot and put them outside in the ground. See what happens.
I mixed my own soil a few months ago and mixed it too hot. Most of the strains I’m growing in it are doing well, but there are a couple that are struggling. It’s my understanding that landraces generally need much less in the nutes department.
I’m pretty clueless but am just throwing this out there.
I think that’s the right chess move. On asians i’m experienced with dalat only, which learned me to dig really deep for transplanting within two seasons (one meter instead the half) . These things are freaking oil well.
Try and get a close up of some of the damaged leaves upstate. Also were the light is realy bright look from the bottom of the leaves and compare them to the healthy leaves. You should be able to kind of almost see the light through the leaves if its bright enough. Compared to your healthy leaves wich should look consitent and even all over and through the leaf, with the bad ones see if you can spot any small tiny dark patches, little lines or dots. Let us know how you get on. Another thing when you water look closely at the soil surface and see if you spot any tiny little almost see through worms. They are some times only about a ml long and very thin. They burrow into the roots and make them grow all stubby and steal nutrients from the plant. So check all these issues.
That’s the real headscratcher. All I grow are landraces. I have a dozen different types enjoying the same soil, including sisters. Yet, it must be the case.
I remember those days where my back would allow for digging a 3 foot deep hole. I envy you😁. Now the plants get a foot at most. Deep taproot on Dalat, eh? @3bombedmice first off, thankyou for your service. I wish I could have recognized you for it last Memorial Day weekend. Good call to see what soil they like back home. I’ll see if I can find anything out about that Red clay. @NIGHTMARE thanks. I’ll get photos today. Could be some soil nematodes or something, but it would be strange if they only bothered that phenotype. My soil has gotten denser this year, so I don’t have to water twice a day in the heat. I’m using less perlite, more soil. Could it be too dense for an old ibl? Ever see anything like this? Sure seems like a deficiency of some sort, but @George is right…it looks like pictures I’ve seen showing damage from too much worm pee tea, so maybe too much food.
Yeah the first year i was lured and i dug a common hole filled with seedlings soil and drain layer. A “carrot”, not so large. I was more used to deal with south west africaan.
Then I got a “meh” yield. I checked at the harvest and this thing create a multiple strong and thick pivot roots (half dozen) in pyramidal network, then fill it with secondaries in a second time mostly in the upper height when limited. They don’t colonize much the surrounding soil like SWAF.
The next year, i’ve made a longer carrot without any sand or stones at the bottom and i got something massive with the typical double-flo effect. At the end I was barely able to remove the plant to check the roots. And this with a shitty summer and start of autumn, oceanic style, in bonus.
