I could be wrong here…
But, I would try and get cedar chips if you can. A lot of unfriendly pests dislike the pungent aroma of cedar and will be detirred. 
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I’ve come to see that rocks are life. Lift up a rock and there’s a lot going on underneath, and they also trap water and moisture, as you say… Rocks rock!
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Oh heck ya I love these old landrace strains, totally tagging along for this!
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I don’t know how often to fertilize with that particular style of growing… If you give me some details I’ll be taking notes
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https://www.youtube.com/live/UqvtiJ6DKPo?feature=share
I think I’ll just drop this right here maybe some body might want to check it out , like a earth box , you know how the roots grow to and out the surface of the soil ? Because of that top cover , the mulch layer does same thing in turn more biological activity and the plot thickens 
https://www.youtube.com/live/UqvtiJ6DKPo?feature=share
PS anyways the Links work and here’s what they are… PSS I thought first link was broke because it didn’t load right
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Try chopped leaves as mulch. I use a mulching mower with a bag to catch the leaves. I collect them in the fall and dump out each bagful into a pile to sit awhile and to be used now
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Right, well see Dr white has proved and actually seen plants “feed on” biology, ok so long story short this is how plants grow out of cracks in rock no dirt, like out of a cliff side or a concrete parking lot, they plant sucks up like a straw bacteria use a super oxides and strips off part of the cell wall doesn’t kill it but sends them back out the root hairs outside the root to rebuild it’s cell wall only to go back it the root tip to repeat process , so biology is fertilizer and as long as they are active and the environment it consistent moisture and the soil has plenty of organic matter the microbes will mine what the plant needs but I give additional available nutrients when the plant goes through it’s transitions veg, in-between, flower and finish PS if the plant shows signs of needing it unless I’m just trying to push it but keep in mind that if I/you over do it that’s what brings in the pests like aphids ect is a overabundance of available nutrients/npk compost is ready available but it still needs to be “mined” sorta 
well a better word/s would be it’s in balance, over abundance= out of balance
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@upstate the jadam liquid fertilizer - JLF is available nutrients, compost tea is also available nutrients so is compost but I use compost as a slow release PS and they are both in balance that’s why there really isn’t a "too much " as long as it’s made with flowering plants it should never cause issue but like if you made a JLF with only grass clippings over time it might cause an abundance of available N and invite aphids to use up the excess but I don’t know that for sure
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I’m with ya BRUH ! I also grow organically, and try to stay on the property for resources. Question…why did you decide to cross Oax/Pes ? Thanks PEACE
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@CHUBBY44 you would have to ask @upstate it’s his creation but if I had to guess it’s for work and meditation hold on let me see if I can find that write up he had made… Oh ok here it is
PS @Upstate what kind of leaf shape did the mystery sativa have? Just to see if I can find some:)
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I feed them yesterday, a 50/50 JLF it’s a 3 part JLF , it’s 1part cannabis , 1 part milk thistle, and 1 part cabbage the cabbage jlf not only has npk but it also grows the microb that breaks down/ reduces iron PS @Upstate are they a lighter green or are they needing something?
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Son of a bitch. I purchased local compost. Hay, bark and manure mix… I’ve never seen anybody spraying anything locally. Just in the main valley, where the corn is sprayed. I hope it’s OK. Planned on using it this year for the garden. Thanks for the info I’ll have to look into it.
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Gotta picture? Mystery sativa had normal green leaves. Neither dark, nor light. Lawn green, I’d say.
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You can test it on tomatoes or anything besides corn or grass I hope that helps PS your compost
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There’s also aminopyralids. It’s a broad leaf weed killer used around wheat and corn crops that passes through animals completely. Plus, it can be found in organic compost and soil mixes. Since it’s used against broad leaf plants, straw or hay can still have residues on it that can transfer into the garden.
In the more vegetable garden aimed forums, it happens every year that Bonnie or other plant suppliers send out tons of plants that have aminopyralids in the soil. It seems like Bonnie up-plants tomato starts right before they ship out. Unfortunately, whatever they up-plant into sometimes contains aminopyralids. The thing is, the herbicide takes 3-4 weeks to get into the plant and start causing issues. People will buy seemingly healthy plant starts and 3-4 weeks after they’ve planted it, top growth grows stupid strange. My in-laws had a tomato plant do it a year or two ago. They just kept it and it eventually kind of grew through it. I’m unsure how I feel about consuming a plant that was infected with it, although they’ve tested it and it’s not dangerous for animals (100% of the weight makes it through us).
For what it’s worth, the best practice when you get a load of compost is throw some soil and compost into a cup and grow peas. Peas are the best indicators for poor soil health. Grow it out for a month or so and keep an eye on growth.
If you DO find a batch that shows aminopyralid damage, you can simply either spread it in your grass or keep it around in a compost pile for a year or two. Soil microbes should break the herbicide down within a year and make it safe to grow in. I’d definitely run another pea in a cup test first.
I’ve been lucky to find municipal compost that is OMRI listed. So far, I’ve had no issues with it but it always makes me nervous. I’ve just slowly kept improving my own composting system to try and keep up with my own demands. I have a 1600 square foot garden so there’s a lot to keep up with.
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I’m feeling lucky to be living in a poor, rural area.
Local hay/dairy farmers can’t afford to spray anything but manure on their fields and they only use local Dolomite lime as fertilizer. Most Hay is cut from private property, wherein basically, homeowners get to have their fields cut for free and the farmer gets hay for free( fuel/ time and effort). Not many farmers can afford to hang on to their own land these days.
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That’s rough. A bale around here is 3-5 bucks. I know a lot of people who will grow hay and someone will pay them to come take it. I’m in a rural area but not the poorest in the state.
I’ve got Appalachia 30 minutes east though. They consistently win the poor rural ticket.
The OMRI listed compost I get for my veggie garden is made from the finest racin’ horse poop in the area. You know, the horses that live in a more expensive house than I do. A lot of the horse farms around here have their own plot for growing certain feed. Those are the big billion dollar farms though. I’ve been in a bathroom that had over a million dollars worth of mosaic tile in it. Floor to ceiling. Fucking insane.
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Watched this a few days back
Can’t remember where I found link so forgive me if it’s on this forum but yes-Got to be very careful of what one uses around garden.
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Just stumbled in, anxious to follow along with you!
That creek access is bangin!!
Good vibes 
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