Come on over, we can have it built and programmed in a weekend 
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Nice project!
I had an XJ, 18 year project that started by converting to 4wd. Had alot of fun with that Jeep…
Running a lightly modified ZJ these days, 94 Limited with 5.2L.
Maybe our paths will cross out there one day…
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Thanks bud! The tent looks pretty dope.
Turns out my buddy ordered the wrong size carrier and bearings for his differential. Now he’s going to buy another locker and 35 spline axels. On the bright side, we may get those middle frame stiffeners burned in this weekend.
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I’d love to see the wind-tunnel test 
Very cool
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I miss my 2000 Cherokee but I sure don’t miss the brakes.
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Helped by buddy finish setting up his 3rd member for his Ford 9". He started with a new nodular iron case and 4:56 gears from Strange. Then he had to upgrade to a Yukon Grizzly locker for the larger bearing size. This, of course, led to new 34 spline axels (on order). Finally he added a pinion guard, this piece would have saved his 3rd member had he had it previously.
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Should be about bullet proof now.
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Spent Saturday working on installing the mid frame stiffeners. First up was grinding off the undercoat and paint so the welds will stick. While I was grinding the passenger side, my buddy tacked up the driver side. Then he started tacking up the passenger while I ground the welds on the driver side. He managed to get the passenger side fully burned in and we stopped for the day. I still need to grind the passenger welds, and he needs to finish the driver. Then I can grind it down and paint.
A couple of days ago I was looking at the power locks. The driver front and rear both worked, but the passenger front and rear did not. So I ordered up some used actuators from e-bay. While my buddy was out getting lunch, I installed the new power locks. Now I can lock and unlock all of my doors from the front seat, the latch still didn’t work with it closed, but did with it open all the way. This is a common problem, I will have to patch the wires where they flex as they have worn out over the last 23 years. The driver door has a similar issue, I will likely repair at the same time.
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Thursday I decided to tackle the hatch wiring issues. So I removed the harness, patched in new wires, and put it all back together. That fixed my rear dome light, my third brake light, my license plate light, the rear lock, and the rear wiper motor! While I was at it I fixed the power lock wire on the drivers side, now I can lock all the doors when the door is open.
We all day Saturday working on the Jeep again. I got at it early and ground down the welds on the passenger side mid frame stiffeners. Then my buddy and I helped another friend change the bearings on his boat trailer. He gave us some tasty Sour Joker weed as payment, which motivated us to finish welding the driver’s side mid frame stiffeners. Finally I ground that side down and threw on some primer and undercoat.
Sunday, we actually got out and took the Jeeps on some “easy” trails. The night before I checked my oil and power steering fluids as they leak everywhere. What I didn’t check was my radiator reservoir. Turns out it was empty so I dumped a water bottle in it, when I pulled in my temp jumped from 220 to 260. We let it cool down while I aired down my tires. The fluid in my return was like mud, I will be needing to flush and clean my cooling system next. It overheated a couple more times on the trail, but we just pulled over for 15 minutes to let things cool down. Hood vents are in my near future too. I ended up getting stuck once, but it gave us an opportunity to test out my lockers. They still work and didn’t get ruined when I blew out my rear differential.
Next weekend I hope to replace my rear O2 sensor so I can get the thing registered, I only have until the end of the month. I will also attempt to flush the radiator, should be pretty straight forward. I still have several parts that need to get on sooner than later. I have a new steering pump and gear box, new front shocks and bar pin eliminators, an oil pan gasket and rear main seal, and finally the front frame stiffeners. After I get the radiator flushed and the O2 sensor done, we are going to park it and remove the front end to get that stuff taken care of.
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Don’t worry too much about the no coolant thing. I ran for many weeks if not a month or so without any or next to none . Didn’t notice till the engine started overheating one day . Turned out there was a recall for my year because of a rad manufacturing defect . I was sure I had ruined the engine but that was 110 000 km ago and no issues so far.
Good luck on getting the registration done man
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Oh yeah, I just pulled over and popped the hood for 15 minutes or so. Registration should be easy, no OBD-II codes and a gas cap test is all they test.
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water alone will run cooler than a 50/50 mix of glycol-based antifreeze, but it will corrode the inside faster AND it will freeze. freeze plugs are more expensive to deal with than coolant. 
and then there’s redline brand water-wetter. 
@ReikoX the whole region needs wetter water!
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Got the new gear box and power steering pump in last weekend. What an improvement that has made. The Jeep actually goes straight when I let go of the wheel now. When we were doing that, my buddy noticed my lower radiator hose was dry and cracking.
I ordered up a new set of silicone radiator and heater hoses (red). While I was at it I went ahead and replaced my thermostat and thermostat housing. While doing that my buddy noticed my motor mounts are shot. They just got added to the list.
I made up a quick summary of what I have already done or purchased for this projext.
LED dash lights and interior
stereo, speakers, and power locks
Seat covers, steering wheel cover, and floor mats
Header, exhaust, O2 sensors
Plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor
Silicone vacuum hoses
Battery, battery tray sensor
Fuel pump
Front brakes and rotors
Rear differential, wheel bearings, shocks, leaf springs, and bump stops
Mid and rear frame stiffeners
Front and rear drive shafts
Steering gear box, power steering pump, and lines
Silicone radiator hoses, thermostat, and thermostat housing
Next steps:
Transfer case linkage bushings
Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil filter adapter gaskets
Front shocks and frame stiffeners
Roll cage
Motor mounts
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Didn’t read the thread but I’m going to suggest to you like I do to everyone to ALH swap it and get rid of the molar engine. The Can-bus system can be piggy backed to run the Mototronic Ecu for the ALH. Codybuilt.com is a great resource.
Last ALH I built was bored and ported, compound turbo setup. Pulled 350hp/700 Tq. Sorry to jump in but got excited.
So many motor options in this vehicle. The I6 is a workhorse though. 277K miles and still running beautifully. When the motor goes, I was thinking about another I6, stroked.
The TDI is another option, I watched those Bleepin Jeep videos where the guy put one in his TJ.
A LS is also an option, I can get one super cheap at the JY and there are tons of after market parts. My buddy just put one in his TJ and it took him about a year to get it tuned and running well.
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That I6 is hard to beat, IMO. Simple design, tons of torque, and last forever. And there are a shit ton of them around!!
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Damn, what a view!!
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Nice build. Just picked up another rig to build for camping myself.
LS swap is the way to go. Everyone does it for a reason.
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That front bar/guard/whatevermagig is kinda, well, like walking around with a 'boner. 
I’m on Hawai’i Island & there’s a lot of 4x4 stuff & ridiculous M-F commuter wheels with low-profile tires on high-lift trucks. I get it, but… still looks funny the way lowriders with 13x6" spoke wheels do, IMO.
I’ll have to pay attention & make my RAV4 into a sleeper, get some wheels, cut off the fenders, etc. snorkel tube & armored window turrets, a monkey butler 
Yeah
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