That’s what I was thinking, that would be a three year supply for me.
And the hygrometers, quite the investment, liking it.
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I’m looking at the 600 rspec kit which at the moment is 15% off so I was unable to get an additional discount on top of that, which is understandable. You like yours Doug? They’re kinda pricey so I’m kinda on the fence but they sure do look like a great light
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The ‘rule of thumb’ with LEDs is 30 watts/sqr.foot. I built to that and I have not gotten higher that 2/3 full power (they fox-tailed consistently at 2/3). 
Penetration for LED is still not quite as good as HPS.
The LED bar configuration is better than the quantum boards - just because the LEDs are more spread out.
The spectrum of the white LED is pretty good, better than bulb & efficiencies are significantly better, thereby lowering operating costs.
They say the LEDs are good for 50,000 Hrs. That’s from the LED chip spec sheet, they count the hours until they hit 80% of output of new.
So look at the big picture… Upfront costs + operating costs over the usable lifespan of the light…
LEDs win. even at current costs and even comparing to double ended CMH.
Cheers
G
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Thanks. . Would that equal 50watts/ sq foot for hps?
You haven’t gone full throttle yet? Just 20 watts/ foot ?
Going from memory here, but I recall sativas like 50 or more watts /sq foot hps… LED lights seem nearly twice as efficient as hps, so would 30 watts led =60 watts Hps?
I’ll have to look that up…i don’t know the difference
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I would walk in that room and go DOINK!!
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It’s a fantastic light but definitely costly. If you can get past the price you won’t be disappointed by the performance.
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I’m currently running a spider-farmer se 3000 in my tent. I love it. Only regret is not getting the se 5000. What I have is enough, but if I was to upgrade spaces to a larger room, I’d need a bigger light. Although, it is perfect for my current tent… they are having black Friday sales on spider-farmer website btw. @Upstate … their se 7000 is around $750 right now.
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@Upstate hey brother just seeing this thread for the first time don’t let the wiring scare you off the LED lights are easy as could be to wire up the hardest part was figuring out how to gracefully screw the strips to the metal because my first try was to use double-sided heat tape and that did not work sufficiently so I ended up taping and screwing each strip to the metal with self-tapping screws. And I didn’t twist any wires together I used those wagos which is definitely a good investment. And my sativa’s love the LEDs. Plus there’s a ton of people willing and ready to answer any questions you may have and help along the way myself included. I see the time restraints may be an issue but seriously once everything was here and laid out it might have taken me two and a half hours to put it all together. And I’d stack it right alongside any of those $1,000 lights. I’m sure prices are going up just like everything else but I think I spent $420 bucks on everything, and it’s kind of cool to walk in my room and say I built that. I’m getting ready to build me another one. As always got any questions brother don’t hesitate to ask I had a whole lot of help figuring out what I needed so it’s time to return the favor
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Heck, I use Dollar Store led lights (14W, 100W equv), but power is relatively cheap here.
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1700e’s are only $1000 now
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@Gpaw makes a good point in that quantum boards are more prone to hot spots and cross lighting when mounted on the traditional single slab heatsink. I often wish I had a bit more height for my light to even out the spread, even in a 4x4. Might modify the hanging setup from wires to a rigid frame that would get me another 6" of height. You can see that HLG realized this and has shifted their pro line of Diablo lights to a more spaced out design that spreads coverage more evenly, seeing that made me realize that the superior layout would have been two boards on each of two triple (XL) heatsinks, hung spaced out a bit. For me, since I already have the 550, I’m planning on adding a few strings of the Buddies from LED Teknik/Grow Lights Australia on the walls of my tent just at or below canopy level. That will bring my light setup up to around 550 actual watts from 490 and should even out the UMOLs while adding some side lighting penetration.
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While I had good results with the qb style boards, the newer bar array style units give you much more uniform ppfd coverage. Much less of a drop off around the edges, not as big of an issue if your running them high in a room but if your in a tent, maximizing the ppfd levels along the edges can make a big difference.
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Damn I shoulda waited 6 months… na… lol
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That was selling point for me… the longer warranty on gavita pro 1700e… and the uniformity of ppfd coverage from center to outside walls are undefeated
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Osram/Sammy leds
IR, UV, and Green not just PAR (blue/red).
Warranty
Wattage
PAR specs at different heights and distance from middle.
Price
Features like brick/driver being wired off the actual light fixture, and a dimmer depending on your needs.
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I run a Spider Farmer SE7000 in my 5x5. Hasnt done me wrong yet. New version is 730 watts from the wall.
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Rapidly has their 600w led bar setup for 900 but running 40% off today.
5 year warranty, they are a good company. Just a FYI.
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These are the main part of what I use, 200w Lenofocus LF2000. I helped Lenofocus develop them and I’ve been thoroughly happy with them. Can do a 3x3 setup or the long 2x4 setup, the long way is how I run mine cause the PAR is almost even across the fixture that way, fits perfect in my veg tent too.
Size and wattage are subjective to your needs, you can cram all kinds of sizes and wattages into lots of spaces, LEDs aren’t a one size fits all so it takes a bit of research to find what’s best gonna suit your needs. I COULD run about 1400 watts of all the LEDs and cobs I have but my light bill would be higher than your 1000w hps at that point, the idea behind high efficiency LEDs is that you get the same amount of photons being put out by exponentially less power
Looks like a black Friday sale for US customers, pretty sure you can order on Amazon too.
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Maybe someone with more brain can help with a related perspective:
If you have the same specific LED lamps (Samsung), the same drivers (Meanwell), and often the same generic lamp pattern layout, and no real variation in reflector, and consistent quality of production – why is one brand of LED lights ‘better’ than any other? Once you remove the reflector design variation it seems not really different that which HID light is better than any other HID light if the other constants are the same you know?
Seems a collection of basic electrical issues rather than any sort of performance pattern. Why pay more money for the exact same components in another company’s brand?
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Cool factor. Warranties. Customer service. Reputation.
I actually believe the specs on my current light. Can’t say that for some others.
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