Basewars. A baseball game of robots killing each other with laser swords and machine guns to steal a base. Dont make em like that anymore.
Right now I got some BOG Sour Blutooth F2s and some huckleberry and east coast sour soda crosses left for free seeds with Overgrow15 code.
How does that work? Pricing?
Oh sweet! Is that all stuff you’ve made? The grinders are epic! But there’s so much cool stuff!
Some I made, most I had made. Lots of stuff I WANT to make but havnt had the time. Something about trying to do too many businesses at once and time being a finite thing or something. Got a thread in sponsored section on some of the stuff for more details. Have some nice glass by Empire Glassworks out of California too. Five Bar Pipes & Sundry official thread FiveBarPipes.com
The giant 95mm/4" grinders are a game changer. Been meaning to add designs to the smaller plain wood and metal ones with my laser but that time thing keeps gettin in the way. And the kids are whining about wanting attention or something. Bleh.
Depends on what you want to do.A recap of an old console keeping everything stock with a recap of the power supply i charge around 225$.If its a whole shebang with swapping out the powersupply and putting in a pico board power supply a Gdemu retro fitting a Noctua fan and a custom shell and a recapping of a controller and a new shell for the controller and a board recap usually runs around 550$ to 650$ depending on style and how hard to get the shell is.The set up i posted was around 600$.A giy out of Sydney makes my shells and the shell alone runs about 150 shipping included.I also swap out a capacitor for a resetable ceramic one on in the controller dock so you can hotswap controllers and not pop the cap
Wow! I used to do Xbox 360’s and we didn’t get near that much. I used to reflow, customize, repair, jtag, rgh, etc etc.
That’s cool to see people are still doing that stuff.
Yeah, bout right. The set up I showed I think I got up for $500 on ebay. Has about half the mods that can be done to it. The parts going into em aint cheap.
Its all about pricing and the availability of the parts.A citrus pi board a real one is hard to find and the guy only makes small batches they get real expensive so i try to use other gdemus that are a little less pricey that aren’t completely garbage
That’s really cool, definitely wasn’t a knock on the price, most people don’t have the skill or knowledge to do that stuff, was just surprised.
Its the parts they trippled since the pandemic and ive had to scour ebay everyday for donor parts they are hit or miss and sell out quickly
The saturn cases Ive used are like 110 each. One reason Im trying to refurb/retrobrite oem ones as well for cheaper, nice looking options for people.
That makes sense. I used to buy the jtag and rgh boards direct from the factory and in large numbers. Sold them on ebay and used them for my own work.
Its all good ones people see what goes into it they understand.I gift an sd card with the unit that has every dreamcast game in it so they get that too
Someone told me that retrobright stuff is a concentrated form of what they use in a salon to bleach hair is that true?
Have you tried taking a torch to the case to restore the color?
Its hydrogen peroxide in whatever form. Some use a bleaching hair cream. I just use liquid 12%. It binds with the bromine that causes the yellowing. Need heat and/or uv as catalyst. Extra grow tents work a treat. Used a seedling mat for a bit but didnt get as warm as I would like. Use a resin curing mat now that gets much warmer.
If its hot and sunny where you are at you can just set it outside in the sun with h2o2 in some form on it. No fancy set up needed. For using the cream people wrap in saran wrap to keep it from drying out.
That’s really cool.
So… can you share what product and how you do to remove the yellow on plastics? I have a set old 2.1 speakers that are quite yellow I was prepared to paint them black to avoid sanding or polishing, and your way preserve the original ink from labels and logos. Very nice.
I do like retro stuff as well I started with a 300+ games crappy console, had a Mega Drive 2 and now I own a PSclassic with retroarch and autobleem and most of retro games in a pen.
It’s actually called retrobrite h2o2 I actually buy it to use for my h2o2 as it’s a high concentration and relatively cheap! @TastyCrop
I just use 12% h2o2. Bout $20 a gallon in bulk, bout $25 if bought one at a time. No idea how it compares to the purpose made stuff.
This is last stuff I ordered. 4 pack is under $80 from the right seller.
For liquid you want to submerge to reach all areas so the two ways are bags, ziploc or vacuum seal, or clear plastic containers. As shown I use UV light (one pictured is 60w) leds, which are currently ineffienclty installed, and the heating pad for underneath.
I havnt used cream or gel sprays but you always want to apply evenly to keep from getting streaks. Liquid is more idiot proof in that respect, and I’m an idiot.
Remember, it is a bleach but we arent trying to bleach so the quicker you can get the reaction to happen to remove the bromine with more uv and more heat (to a limit, abs can get too hot) the more youre getting yellow out and less youre bleaching. At least thats my mindset. But it can take a few hours to a few days depending on EXACT method used. You can check as you go along to get the result you want with least exposure to the chemical. With my set up its about 3-4 hours for severe yellowing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09J956XVP/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And dont be a me. Use gloves.
