Made by Growell and for sale almost everywhere. Has anyone tried it? esp the coco. Getting hard to find Canna coco A/B now.
Cheers A
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Never used, perhaps it would be interesting for you to try pH PerfectĀ® Coco Base Nutrients, forgetting about the pH is something unpayable, I use Advanced Nutrients pH perfect in DWC and soil: only use my pH measurer when I flush, quite a relief ā¦ 
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@Albannach I see soooo many UK growers on IG using it. Iām stateside but I am curious myself. Package is a bit gimmicky but people seem to like it.
@George Iāve seen you post about pH perfect a few times. Can you really forgo any pH adjustment? Like, you can feed at 7.5 (which is what my water looks like after nutes added) and not add pH down? No difference vs. regular pH adjusted feed? Iām wary of AN due to price and overall gimmicky-ness, but I love simplicity above all else and will pay for it.
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Cursory look at the Shogun line, it reminds me a lot of House and Garden line. It may very well be a clone of the line, but Euro fertilizer labeling isnāt the same here so I canāt compare as easily.
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@vernal thanks dude, Iāve had a hunt online but didnāt come across much except the usual sales hype. @George I tried that stuff a couple of years back but the plants got all kinds of deficiency issues and i had to switch back to canna. Before i chucked it i poured some into a bowl and found loads of crystals in the bottom of the bottles.
Had this issue before with US manufactured nutrients, maybe stored too long by the time we buy them. I once bought a bottle of oldtimer organic that was like 1/3 thick clay topped up with muddy water 
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Yeap, I must admit I did, it even if I am not paid for 
. I started with GH nutrients, but LabRat gave me the advice to change to AN pH perfect.
Firstly I was confused because the pH was dropping up and down 
and still using pH down and baking soda to fix it.
Finally Colanoscopy told me to throw my pH pen away and explained me how it works: it has a component that chelates all the nutrients and make them available to the plant. So it doesnāt matter what pH you have, no nutrient will be blocked. I know it is not easy to trust that and really never measure your water again, but it really works.
I found that the best way to thank that good advice I received was to spread it and convince people that things can be much more simple, never had any more pH related problems again ā¦ 
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No I get that, it has a range of the more finicky elements chelated, Iām asking functionally what is the pH you feed at. For example, you add pH perfect nutrient at the correct amount, what is the pH of your solution?
Wish it had worked for me but i wasnāt keen on a second try. Most nutrients are chelated and if your water is around 7 you might never need to adjust it. My water is usually around 8.4 - 8.6ā¦ Iāve found it pays to drop it into range 
Maybe we should follow this good advice:
lol youād need a mortar and pestle to grind those crystals up when they get big. Shaking bottles is obviously good practice when starting out with known good nutrients but if they are already knackered it achieves nothing at all. Once the elements bond together forget it.
My tap water once sitting 24 hour for the chlorine to evaporate has a pH of 7.4, I just add the Grow, Micro & Bloom and thatās all. I NEVER check the pH, only when flushing with straight tap water.
The feeding chart speaks about 4ml/liter, but I give them less and complete the feeding alternating Pro Silicate, CalMag Pro, Growth Max and now in flower Dragon Force. Never had any deficiency since, they are happy and I am happy ā¦ 
I might give it another go sometime if i can get some thatās not already forming crystals. I do think my tap water is a bit too alkaline though. Yours at 7.4 should drop almost into range just by adding the nutrients
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But you could test the pH of the feed water? If so, what is it? 7.4 is a good starting point, thatās my pH after I add nutrients, Iād be hesitant to use a full pH point+ higher than 5.9-6.3 like I prefer.
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I have received my second batch, checked inside the bottles with a lantern and it was liquid like a baby pee, no crystals. Maybe yours was too much time stored or your water āheavyā.
That was my mistake, testing it. This fertilizer doesnāt change your pH at all, it just ādecomposeā all the nutrients and make them available to the plant. Just a question of faith, if a newbie like me has left all nutrients problems behind it means it really works ā¦
So you add your nutrient to pH 7.4 water and then after you add it, the pH remains 7.4?
@George Check out what it says about advanced ph perfect - 10 Best Hydrophonic Nutrients For Marijuana (2019)
Next time I will measure it and be able to answer you. As I said before, I never check it ā¦
My concern about the Shogun nutes would be the organic components. Im never ever using any nute that has anything organically sourced again. Pure minerals from now on.
Organics and hydro just dont play well together in my experience.
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Thanks for the warning, I now just look to my plants instead of my pH measurer, if something works thereās no need to change it.
Hope you will find the one that gives you better results, just wanted to give you an advice based on my experience with this product ā¦
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Where are you guys getting the info that you dont have to measure PH with AN nutes, or that the nutes work fine at any PH no matter how hi or low?
Thats not at all what AN says:
"pH Perfect . ā¦ When you use any Advanced Nutrientās base nutrient, the pH Perfect Ā® Technology inside automatically stabilizes and locks in your pH within the optimal range (called the āsweet spotā) of pH 5.5ā6.3 ā and keeps it there for one week. No more pens. No more meters."
Note the ākeeps it there for one weekā. The part about no more pens is ONLY for that one week.
In my experience, AN nutes do NOT hold the PH for even close to one week, so I dont see how you can say to throw away your pens.
Well, you can throw away the cheep pens, but if you have a decent meter, better keep it 
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