Burnt the hell out of her from what I see, overload on n and lockout, what the hell did u do to her?
I’m not sure was going fine got same as all other plants and they are fine.
It’s def something in the root zone, how big is the plant and how many gallon? Maybe root bound?
5-5.5’ and 5 gal pot. Was in a 1 gal until 7 weeks ago or so
Geez that’s a big plant for 5 gallon, I’d give it 10 minimum. I see it’s in a plastic pot, can u take a look at the roots?
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Once the lights come on tonight.lol
It’s a Swaziland gold x Acapulco gold so sativa size.
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Ah that answered it. Sativa’s are extremely light feeders bud, almost next to nothing. I still think she got n overload
TIPS FOR GROWING SUPER SATIVAS
• Sativa-dominant strains tend to tolerate warmer temperatures and higher humidity levels versus indica strains during budding.
• Sativas like LOTS of light intensity. The more you give, the better they respond, so long as temperatures don’t exceed 85 degrees and humidity is maintained at 55-65 percent RH.
• Even though they grow like crazy, sativas typically respond better to light-fertilizer levels and less-frequent feedings.
• To prevent an overfed root zone, flush with half-strength Flawless Finish every fourth watering.
• Sativas tend to do most of their essential oil production at ripening.
• To help bring your strains to maturity quicker, try shortening the day lengths to eight hours ON during the final weeks before harvest is anticipated.
• Sativa strains are often unstable, extremely sensitive to environmental factors, and especially reactive to problems with nutrients, water quality, and root zone pH.
• Under stress, they tend to develop hermaphroditic (male-female) flowers, or their floral development is otherwise mutated or delayed.
• Many growers believe Sativa-dominant marijuana isn’t able to handle heavy feeding, but this isn’t totally accurate.
• It’s more accurate to say it doesn’t like inferior feeding with fertilizers that contain harsh compounds and weak pH buffers, such as General Hydroponics, Botanicare, Emerald Harvest, Scotts Miracle-Gro, etc.
• Use highly-bioactive, cannabis-specific beneficial microbial treatments such as Voodoo Juice, Tarantula, and Piranha, along with an enzymatic root zone cleanser and catalyst such as SensiZym.
• Feed Microbial Munch to your beneficial microbials to help them thrive.
• If you see 1/16th of an inch or less leaf tip burn from nutrients overfeeding, that’s acceptable.
• More than that isn’t, and you’d want to back off your nutrients PPM until the tip burn is reduced.
• Use less nitrogen than with other types of cannabis.This is tough because grow phase hydroponics base nutrients are nitrogen-heavy. My solution?
• Feed a bloom phase hydroponics base nutrients product instead of grow phase base nutrients every second or third feeding during grow.
• During early bloom phase, use Bud Ignitor—a supplement that creates more and earlier budding sites.
• Add a carbohydrate feed such as Bud Candy during bloom phase.
• Don’t forget to structurally support your plants. Supporting your Sativa cannabis plants by tying them from above is better than staking or netting.
• Do a minor trim of needless large leaves (especially at bottom of plant) and sucker branches midway through bloom phase to assist light penetration.
Be patient with Sativa.
Sativa-dominant strains that are 70% or more Sativa genetics have bloom phases that last nine weeks minimum, and most of the time we’re talking much longer, such as 9-14 weeks.
Let your cannabis plants mature to their full potential.
Only harvest when 10-20% of their resin glands are starting to fall apart.
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I didn’t a yucca extract pH water flush should break out some salts and nutes hopefully lol humidity has been low
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Please see post i am replying to for previous info.
Fat bastard lower branches that are not getting much light are showing some rough signs
Maybe this is a sign of the deficiency that is causing the yellowing of the entire plant?
! …………msg deleted….
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I would use some cal mag ph water and some salt nutes. Im sure more people with more knowledge on sick plants could chime in. But if your just going to try and defeat some deficiencies then hit them with some nutes and cal mag. Couldn’t hurt. They aren’t terrible off it would seem. They look a little hungry. Try mega crop. @GreenleafNutrients
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What’s ur feeding plan, they look hungry short on iron for nice green and lush and rust spots from missing calcium, if organic then throwing a pinch of blood meal and oyster shell in ur next feeding should get em back to rocking an rolling, likely some n from a bat guano would be good too
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I have my last feedings a few posts up bro. I do have oyster shell. Should i copy the tea i posted above and add oyster shell?
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Usually it’s best for veg but it’s def craving it so I would add some in.
If u wanna go a lil simpler without so many issues and having to salt up ur soil so bad then may wanna consider these recipes. I’ve had no issues running it 
Plants turn out smooth and dank too! I know it’s a lot of amendments but brewing a good flower tea from these recipes would really get things rocking and rolling for the rest of ur flowering, then last month switch to the finishing
This is by far the most important time to bulk the plants up so they stack up fat, if they going through a hunger then it’s gonna slow that down and I’ve had plants starve themselves to a finished lifecycle being yellow not knowing any better or these recipes. Getting my hands on those have been a game changer with a lush garden but does take about 300 investment for everything on that list but will last several grows
I’ve been working with these recipes for years and now that I have a better understanding of organics and soil composition I can break down the benefit of each and every amendment in the recipes so if u have questions on certain ones then by all means fire away
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I tagged you where i wrote my run off ppms. Do you think i should hit them with a veg tea or just water this time around and then next few days when they dry out give them a veg tea?
I did throw a shot glass of 5-5-5 dr earth in a 4 gal tea as one of the ingredients. Was worried if i overdid the N with that lol i really got a lot to learn.
Ive been trying to follow the flower tea you posted i actually have it saved but i dont have most of the amendments needed 
You think switching back to organic bottles nutes would be a better idea to finish this run off at this point since i dont have the proper ingredients and i am feeding them a “half ass” tea.
Well hard for me to answer that one, I don’t mess with bottle nutes
What are u still missing off the flower tea list, that’s the one I’d be trying to feed
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Im missing majority of it.
I haze azomite, kelp meal, ewc, insect frass, and molasses. I think im going to switch back to bottle nutes and try and piece together the rest of the amendments.
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Alfalfa meal is cheap, I get the 50lb bags of cubes and throw em in the blender or if u got any rancher buddy’s just a hand full of hay and throw in the blender, gonna get growth hormones and nitrogen with that one
Insect frass is just for chiton to keep plants immunity up, no nutrition from that one
Azomite is trace minerals
Bee pollen is an extremely important one in my opinion it contains every vitamin, aminos, and proteins for a nice balanced diet!
The humes is to make peat based soil less hydrophobic so not super important on that one
Feather meal a blast of nitrogen
Bat guano is good microbes and a balanced npk providing mostly nitrogen
High p guano I substitute with bone meal, much cheaper and lasts a long time
For general fert I use Dr earth flower girl
That’s the main ones I’d hit on if u can, only missing a couple to few of em that are actually important
Fish meal I actually skipped out on this year without any issues just simply cuz I was having issues getting my hands on some that I just said fuck it
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Gotcha im going make up a shopping list for
Alfalfa meal (or hay substitute)
Bee pollen
Feather meal
Bat guano
Bone meal
Flower girl by dr earth.
In the mean time my plant ill switch back to bottles, so if im understanding correct my plant is showing signs of Nitrogen, calcium and iron deficiency?
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That’s my suspicions hoping someone else can chime in, with several in question id def check ur pH, try to aim for about 6.2 in the roots
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Hay is alfalfa haha just comes in many forms, u could literally go buy a bail and use it but it’s overkill for the amount u need, just go to a horse housing place and grab a hand full off the ground, more then enough for several teas, or get small handful of their composted poo, same benefits plus microbes and the horse chewed it up for ya
Bee pollen is gonna be best if u know any local bee keepers most will just give it to u or about 10 bucks a half lb which will last through 2 full grows, bat guano and bone meal come in a small bag at tractor supply for about about 10-15 each and will last a couple years. Feather meal id get on redbudsoilcompany.com and wouldn’t hurt to snag some fish meal if u got an extra 10 on that order
Flower girl I got the 12 lb bag on ace.com for a local pick up at my store 3 years ago for 25 bucks, still using it but almost out finally
Soluable kelp is 14 for a lb on red bud as well and worth throwing that in
Hopefully this points u in the direction of the cheapest sources! I’m all about efficient:)
The most expensive on the list is the fox farms big bloom, I buy it by the gallon for around 60 and gets me through 5 flower teas since I’m doing 25 gallon brews at the rate of 1oz per gallon
Next most expensive is the humes but when finances allow does help breaking down the soil when it’s got peat in it. The 3 ingredients I purchased in equal amounts on redbud to make my own is humic acid, yucca, and soluable kelp. Just buy a lb of each and throw it all together for a total of 3lbs for around 40, makes the teas absorb way better minimizes loss from splash back
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