I really need to get some in-depth pics of it it has tight node spacing off of every branch every inch is another branch it’s growing dense for not being dense it that makes sense like a torn bush I just wish I had a outdoor climate to run it would be a monster
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Great, I love seeing pics of this crazy plant!
I’m not a fan of 11/13 by any means.
I like spending time with my plants, letting them know how much I appreciate them but 11/13 doesn’t give me a lot of time for that.
But I DO like the result.
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Sometimes you can go in and trim all of that wild shit out, and open the node spacing, and they will straighten up and grow better. They’re all different beasts, though.
I would try and trim the wild stuff out and see and then take clones in flower to get a handle on it. Thanks for the info, everybody.
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Spaceman,
what did your final plant look like, was there slight frost, medium frost, heavy frost. I have no frost on the plant at this time, 7 weeks complete. just curious?
regards,
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They were light to medium frost.
Clear as water.
Definitely at least 3 weeks away.
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The wild ones definitely have more vigor than the standard version. Clones are rooted so rootstocks have been under 12/12 for a couple days now. I’ll throw some pics up in a couple weeks.
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Just reread your post, apologize for the incomplete answer.
Based on my experience last year w/outdoor, I’d say at 7 weeks means you are at or slightly over halfway there.
She is rounding out at 13-14 weeks outdoor.
Since TJ is such a vigorous grower, 11/13 lighting or even less won’t affect yield that much.
I read somewhere that some folks growing these tropical sativas use 9/15 for flower.
I have not tried that yet and next year am planning a light proof enclosure for outdoor grows.
So can anyone explain how in the hell these plants flower in their native habitat?
I thought that the closer you are to the equator, the less variance in daylight length there was?
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Yeah. Right on the equator the day length only varies by like 8 minutes from the longest to shortest day of the year. Haven’t gone as far as 15 of darkness each day, but 13-14 has never given me blatantly negative results.
I think how it works is:
The plants know how long the night length is, and uses up its energy stores in that amount of time each day.
And; a plant that isn’t receiving enough light will stretch from extra gibberellic acid production, but if the light is intense enough they’ll stay nice and short.
So; by cutting the daylight hours we’re limiting the amount of energy the plant has available for growth, while keeping the light intensity high enough that they don’t stretch to infinity.
Plants on the equator just go on forever. Lol
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So what your saying is that the plant responds to the intensity of the equatorial Sun during the day and not from length of exposure?
That is something I haven’t considered before.
The first time I went to the subtropics convinced me the Sun around these parts is squat.
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alright, I’m growing indoors in a 12/12 environment. I let it Veg from seed until I thought it was ready it move into the 12/12 room. That is how I like to do it, I do not move by date, I go by visually inspecting size and look of plant. How much longer would you guess I might still have to go from this point now? I was planning on a 9 or 10 week flower at the most, is that wrong?
Also, I have been flushing for the past three (3) days with plain water. I am going to cut back on the bloom mixture a little to see if that helps with the leaf curling, hopefully?
Regards,
mike28086
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Here is how I have done it in the past.(notes check)
Veg until the plants reach 2/3rd’s of the max headroom based on the highest point the lights can go,
11/13 from there on expecting/hoping for bud stretch to fill in the remainder.
I originally grew my TJ F1’s 12/12 from seed.
That might be the other way tropical’s flower, 12/12 is all they know.
Don’t know why it took me this long to remember to check my notes.
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how many weeks were they in the 12/12 may I ask, did you note?
regards,
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Oddly enough I never tracked those dates, I have to dig out my pics and check the dates on those for an idea.
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I’m not sure. Let me try again. Forgive me if I ramble a lil bit.
So we’ll call the wild plant, baseline growth.
If we make an identical environment indoors we’d get a plant too big to manage. But every change to the environment changes hormone production, giving us different phenotypes from the same cut.
If we decrease the light intensity too much, it’ll kick in a shade avoidance response in the form of gibberellic acid. It’s the same hormone that tells a seed to wake up and burn it’s starches. It tells the plants they’re not getting enough light, and to burn their stored sugars to fuel upward growth. Outdoors that doesn’t come into play unless you get a large number of overcast days or a lot of shade.
We could pinch the main top, to cut off most of the auxin production and let cytokinins take over as the main driving hormone. Cytokinins is what makes the plants bush out when we top em, and is why coconut water and sprouted seed teas increase secondary growth. They increase cytokinins levels above auxin.
There’s also chemical pinchers. I want to say brassinosteroids but I’d have to look it up. Theoretically, if you spray it on a pure sativa before flower starts it’ll dissipate to undetectable levels by harvest time, but I’m not sure if that’s true or not. They’re also sold as bud hardeners, but they’re explicitly labeled as “not to be used on plants intended for consumption.”
So in the wild the plants get crazy light intensity so they don’t need to stretch unless they’re shaded, but they don’t have any height or time restrictions. If we want to limit their height we need to limit their energy, but if we do that by decreasing the intensity we get giberellic acid and stretchy ass plants.
So. By keeping light intensity as high as possible we keep gibberellic acid production to a minimum while shortening the day length to keep actual growth to a minimum as well.
If that makes any sense at all. Lmfao.
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What you said makes sense for veg but I don’t see how that triggers flowering.
If you’ve ever grown breadseed poppies the reverse is true, high intensity, long daylength triggers the flowering mechanism.
It usually peaks at the summer solstice, right about now.
Turkish Red with Wild Lettuce
As I said above growing in a 12/12 state from seed, the plant must respond to it’s internal clock and there must be some hormonal trigger that occurs along the way.
I just know that flipping this plant from veg to 12/12 doesn’t make it flower reliably and you practically have no chance to finish outdoors at my latitude.
Good news!
I found some old pics that reminded me I planted the parent seed of this grow March 28th 2014 under 12/12. A day before the New Moon.
It took about 7 to 10 days to sprout and 6 weeks to flower enough for pollination and about 40 - 50 days after pollination before seed set. Momma never grew over 2 ft.
I dried and harvested seed on 8/18/2014.
If there is any correlation between seed set times and those for optimum bud harvest then TJ would be ready from seed sprout in 12 - 14 weeks in a 12/12 grow environment.
It’s been a while since I’ve run a grow 12/12 from seed, I’ll have to revisit this next TJ grow.
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o.k., but that was for seed harvesting, I’ve never harvested seeds. Does that not take a longer period of grow time than for just trying to produce quality buds? I am trying to determine if these plants for normal production in a 12/12 environment (typing that word always gets my fingers twisted for some reason) would take 9 - 12 weeks for charting purposes. I like to plan things out a ways… thanks again for all the information,
regards.
There’s a worthy question to ask this board!
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would you like the honor?
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Already done. Looky here.
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Oooooooh. Yeah that’s just controlled by sexual maturity. As soon as they are old enough they’ll start flowering, but only because they’re already under 12/12.
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