Looks like the top of the plant will be all bud. Interesting growth habit. So this plant is slower to flower than the others? Interesting it began flowering during your longest days…
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I made an edit in the post above, it was the pre flowers …
Yes, a little slower than the others, and with few leaves and extremely thin … I can’t focus the camera, I will try the next visit …
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I can’t wait to see them grow! They look not as leggy as expected for just being in a window that long. How many weeks do you think they’ll run?
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12 to 16 weeks. Just transplanted out of solo cups into 1/2 gallon. Ill let them get established and then start flowering. Ill get pictures soon.
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That picture you put up looks like the plants are Beyond pre flowering and into the early budding stage. Is it common for plants to flower in December and January down there? That would mean they would be flowering in June and July in the northern hemisphere, which is a very valuable trait for Northern Growers…
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I’ll post another photo of the entire plant,
Birth: 09/15/20
Planting: 10/04/20
Pre flowers: 11/20/20 to 12/15/20
Flowering: 12/15/20 to 01/04/21
The hybrids started before flowering, the sativas born in September, showed pre flowers in December.
Those born in October showed up in January.
I hope you understand
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I think I do understand. The plants are all heavy into flower now, or just some? I forgot these Paraguayan varieties( right?) You are growing have indica in them, and you have short days all year, and that would explain the early flowering. What latitude are you again? When are your daylight hours now? Sun up and sundown?
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That, I have Paraguayans and Brazilians …
All are hybridized, with some exceptions.
I realized this through Flowering, another fact was the presence of hemaphrodites, I think they are plants without hybridization, because this characteristic is removed in the selection.
This photo I posted, is from the Brazilian Northeast, looking at the plant now, it reminded me of the buds of Juazeiro-Ba (city of Bahia)
I do not plant pure indica, humility would not let it go very far, I am building my house and I will make a secret Greenhouse for this.
I’m at -26 ° latitude, with no frost and a lot of humidity, especially for sativas
The days are with 13:14:00
Rising sun at 5:50
Sunset: 07:05
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So I guess it’s a good way to weed out the Indica type plants to just see what takes forever to start to flower. …And you’re probably on to something with hermaphrodites. Certainly sounds like a landrace trait. How long do you think they have been hybridizing in Paraguay? I think you mentioned once that the weed when you were younger was much different and much more sativa.
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Those plants you say remind you of Bahia are very pretty. Lots of stretch to those, and they look very sativa…
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I believe that about 10 to 15 years ago, an exact date is difficult, but I read an article by a guy who went to the producing region in Paraguay, he comments that a farmer traveled to Holland and brought seeds. These seeds are sold in Paraguay more expensive, and producers are adopting practices to improve quality.
I can say that before this hybridization, mainly in the months of May, June and July, a sweeter, softer and more energetic herb appeared on the market.
After that, the so-called “clone” appeared, which I believe to be the first hybrids, the price doubled …
There are several producers in Paraguay, and the hybrid and traditional seeds are there, if legalizing Paraguay can launch several landraces …
Yes, take a look at Agroecological guerrilla, in search of the True Brazilian Sativa - #113 by Gugumelo
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Little update. 10/10 panama are up and growing, with one lagging behind.
Skinny leaves on some of them.
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Little Oaxacan update…
When I took the previous photo, I had just mulched several plants. I used the handiest mulch, which was in last season’s containers, the straw.
If we only share success, we can never learn, so As much as I hate to admit it, the straw had mite eegs in it from last season, and within a couple days, I saw stippling on some of the Oaxacan. This coincided with the Panama germination.
I now had sprouts that soon needed light, and spider mites in the new room. Rookie mistake. I sprayed with neem oil immediatey after I removed the mulch. I was truly shocked those mite eggs survived our winter, but duh! That’s what bugs do. Their eggs overwinter.
With neem it says spray, and then again in 7 days. Nope. I said, I’m getting rid of these little buggers and sprayed everyday for 3 days. I knew the plants wouldn’t like it, but going into a potential 1/2 year grow, I felt I had little choice. I waited a couple/few days, sprayed again. At day 9 or 10, sprayed again. I saw no movement since day 3, and no new stippling since day one. I just checked again and see no evidence on the new foliage of any might damage, nor are there any visible. The only visible effect is a lightening of some of the lower leaves on the poor little Oaxacans, (some of the single leaflets been removed) a result of the neem oil.
The Panama have been in a different building, and are fine and healthy. My plan is to remove the Oaxacan from the room for 24 hours and open the room to the cold with the lights and heat off. This will kill any creepy-crawlies left on the floor without me having to Clorox the room. I will spray the oaxacan plants one final time just to make sure nothing has hatched that is too small to be seen. Then I’m planning on putting the Panama in with The Oaxacan.
Anyway, I learned a lesson about mulch. Burn it after the season. Solarize your soil, or in my case, “cook it”
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Looks like a little bit of red color coming off the first plant. Sure looks like anthocyanin production but perhaps it’s something else, perhaps from the neem. Soil is plain old Black gold plus extra perlite. Transplant was Friday.
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I have an infested plant.
I noticed that the infestation is on a relatively weaker plant,
I am concerned that it will spread to others …
Outdoors does the mite spread quickly? Or can the environment balance its population?
I noticed that the infestation is on a relatively weaker plant,
As a prevention, I was spraying cow pee, I stopped at Floração.
I’m thinking about neutral soap, or wheat flour … What do you think?
I believe there must be resistant or even repellent varieties. Has anyone seen anything about this? A plant not attacked among others infested?
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The soap will help, but give this technique a shot. Dilute one teaspoon of milk in one gallon of water. Spray that on the plant twice per week. Meanwhile, make a batch of lactobacilli.
To make make lactobacilli, start by taking a tablespoon of rice and put it in a jar half full of water. Shake up the jar and strain out the rice water into a separate jar. Place the lid on the jar, but don’t seal it. Allow the lid to remain loose to allow air inside. Place the rice water jar under the sink in the back, in the dark. LEAVE IT THERE FOR 7 DAYS.
At the same you make the rice water, take a teaspoon of milk and put it in a jar of water half full. Place the milk water under the sink next to the rice water. Do not seal the lid. Let it remain loose to let air in, just like the rice water jar. LEAVE IT THERE FOR 7 DAYS.
After 7 days, pour the water from the rice and milk jars together in a new jar. Put it under the sink in the back. LEAVE IT THERE FOR 7 DAYS.
After the final 7 days, take 1 half cup and pour it into a gallon of water. SPRAY YOUR PLANTS with that every 3 days.
These milk/rice fermentations will create a BARRIER of healthy bacteria on the surface of the plant. Essentially, starting an invisible war that you will win with your healthy beneficial bacteria.
Put one teaspoon of molasses in the rice/milk mixture and put it in the refrigerator. The molasses feeds the bacteria colonies inside that jar and will keep them alive. Put a teaspoon of molasses in that jar once every month.
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Oh no!! That’s what burned me, too! Re-using old stuff. Whether it’s saving money or time, the temptation is always so real! I am never going to do it again. I developed a technique for mushrooms where I can sterilize soil/medium or mulch by putting it in a black trash bag in the sun and sealing it. I can’t say for certain it will get to sterilization temperatures (250f+ I think it might), but in Southern California, it at least get’s way beyond the 160 required to kill mite eggs. You can do massive batches of soil that way.
I’m so sorry you got mites. At least it’s early in the grow, so there’s less foliage and soil to treat and for them to hide in. I’m really glad they’re at bay for now, and will keep my fingers crossed they don’t come back!
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Yup. Stupid mistake…but it was only the straw that was reused… and the time it takes adults to lay eggs is 5-20 days. I think I caught them quick enough. I’ll be solarizing the soil before use.
Spidermites are not new to me, but I haven’t dealt with them much. Growing new varieties far from their home environment in small containers, I suppose I’ll have all the experience I could want at some point. I now realize how spoiled I had been growing my heirlooms, which spidermites avoid, outdoors at least. Leafhoppers, slugs/snails and recently hemp fleabeatles have been the enemy, and are easily defeated. I found this about the mites life cycle…
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LAB works for mites? Or you are talking molds?
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I had mite resistant plants that were in close quarters with mite infested plants last season. Like rubbing leaves close I mean. Must have had a smell or were healthier somehow…
The question is, do you want to find out if the others are resistant? The mites last season started on a weak plant, but then spread to healthy plants. Maybe 25-50% seemed resistant.
I never had them on plants in the ground though. The soil microbe/ fungus network seemingly increases the health of the plants.
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