I’ll get rundown tonight of survivors, lost all Mexican Haze, every other strains doing well, time for a solo cut for a few weeks veg.
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That’s really what saved me with those Kashmir’s. The mites obviously weren’t fans of them, I think probably because of the pine related terpenes. My only non-Kashmir plant in the room wasn’t even mottled anymore–there was barely any chlorophyll left, while all the Kashmir’s were untouched. The mites went, I think, weeks before they touched the first Kashmir, and weeks before they touched the second. We’ve really made a mistake breeding all the hardiness out of cannabis as we grow it in pristine, spotless indoor grow rooms. Hopefully now that it’s on the full path toward legalization, we’ll start seeing more breeding geared toward outdoor growing.
One thing I’ve been curious about for you outdoor growers, are deer an issue for you? I’ve heard they eat cannabis. I’ve always had deer fences for when I gardened (non cannabis) outdoors, but they just persistently and systematically decimate plants little by little. Rabbits are my most hated things on earth.
Have you thought about introducing predatory mites? It’d be cool to have a reproducing population of them living in your room.
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I’ll start with your predatory Mite idea. It’s a great idea, as were the ladybugs you used. I’ll have to look into that.
As far as deer and rabbits go, I had rabbits eat a good portion of the lower stalk away on some plants years ago and they tipped over. That was the only time.
Early in the season, blood meal and bone meal are added to the holes about a month before planting. Usually the dirt will get pawed at by raccoons, coyotes, or bears. When the little ones go into the soil 30 days later, it doesn’t smell anymore and the animals are satisfied that there is nothing buried. I always make it a point to pee around the area to mark my territory. If I feel like animals can be a problem, I’ll take a small piece of a sponge and soak it in coyote urine, put it in a ziplock bag, and hold the ziplock bag open with a stick. This allows the scent to escape and protects it from rain. That’s all I have ever done and I’ve never had an issue with deer. The coyote urine needs to be topped up every now and again, and will protect your plants from anything that coyotes eat. You can purchase this wonderful smelling urine at an archery or hunting shop. Fox urine would be equally effective for the smaller animals, but I don’t know about the big ones . I’ve never used a fence.
Used kitty litter is an excellent deer deterrent. They don’t distinguish a difference between a house cat and a mountain lion in smell. A hunter told me of a game trail that disappeared onto his neighbor’s property, and the neighbor wouldn’t allow him to hunt. He poured used cat litter in the deer trail on the edge of his property, and the deer permanently moved their Trail 50 ft. Allowing him to set up a stand on the trail.
I have had plants stepped on when they are young, and although it didn’t kill them, it pushed them down into the dirt and they wouldn’t have liked it if I hadn’t gone back and fixed it. A copper collar placed around the base of your seedling seems to prevent all animals from stepping near your seedlings. Coyotes will not dig at it, probably fearful of it being some sort of trap.
The Kashmir are so covered in those little fuzzy hairs, mites probably had a tough time moving around on the plants. Probably like a maze to the little bastards. @Shiv9545 says Indian Farmers tell him that plants with these hairy qualities are naturally more pest resistant.
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Upstate,
Yes. lactobacilli will help to eliminate mites. In my experience, I have seen it work on established colonies. 70% of my grows are outdoor guerrilla scenarios. Lacto is one of those things that use with one specific purpose and begin to find other useful applications for it. I can only speak for myself. My climate is hot, humid and rainy in the summer.
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I have a similar climate, sort of. Hot is 80, but its humid and rainy. I made some Lab, but never did add more molasses. Can it be revived? It would be much easier on the plants than Neem oil.
Do you think using this boosts the health of the plant to where it can defend itself, or does the LAB smell or taste badly to a mite? Kill them?
So many uses for this wonderful concoction! Neat info. Thanks.
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What happened? Something killed the plants?
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If the lactobacilli has been alive more than 30 days WITHOUT any molasses or sugar, they will die. You will have to start over. I live in a subtropical climate. Southeast U.S. 32 degrees latitude. I’ve grown equatorial sativas Vietnam Black Thai, Malawi and Punto Rojo and they like the lactobacilli. What I have noticed with lacto foliar spray, is increased vigor. The beneficial bacterial creates a visible/invisible turf war.
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Okay. Thanks for the tip. I’ll have to make a new batch then. I’m very interested in Korean natural farming, it just seems like quite the learning curve, and I’m already good at the way I grow. Baby steps , but I’ll get there.
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Just the Mexican Haze from Ace I believe, here are the fast starters coming out of a few weeks in K-cups. I’m going to stager them for any pollen chucking.
2 - Zach’s are by far must vigorous
1 - Columbian Gold keeping pace
1 - Michoacán right behind
1 - Last Kona Gold bringing up the rear.
Have at least a pair of all but the Kona Gold.
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F’ing brilliant with the k cups. I’ve thought about using those, but you done did it!
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I have lots of sativa’s but no room to grow any of them.
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I like to get three nodes tight in th K cups, pot up to a Solo then top from 6th node down to 4 clone the top and top again every third node if I want to grow SOG. Or just FIM it for a bush
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As ‘dynamic’ as all that looks and seems, I need to grow outdoors. Indoor grows are just not quite as spiritually fulfilling as working in the actual ground? What’s the furthest from the equator that pure sativas can be grown in the United States, if one were interested in moving?
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You’ve got the right mind set, that’s half the journey. The more clear your awareness becomes, of the plants world and it’s needs - the better your ganja becomes. Rock on, my man.
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I was told by an old grower I could finish mexican sativa’s in oklahoma
Certainly texas, hawaii, florida and Louisiana would be far enough south once could grow some pure sativa’s. I am going to try light deprivation in our greenhouse for long term sativa’s.
Of course the laws in southern states are problematic. Oklahoma is the most “liberal,” in that regard.
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Good question. I suppose it depends on which sativa. Morrocan can flower correctly anywhere in the lower 48. Maybe Alaska too. It would complete the flowering cycle, but is the sun strong enough…
The cutoff for flowering many sativas( not equatorials) correctly seems to be 43 degrees latitude going by what Ace seeds often lists. Even some equatorials can finish here correctly. Kerala has that reputation. Not sure why. Perhaps the altitude of its home make a difference.
I’ve seen Manipuri “finish” naturally in Seattle. Buds were a little thin, but not too bad. So, if you have a frost free fall, you can get them to keep going til they naturally finish. Just wont be the best representation of the genetics.
Where there is a will, there is a way. Attitude over latitude( i like that), at least in some cases.
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Recommend SNS 209 (SierraNaturalScience.com), natural, essential oil derivate, might help your mite situation. SS/BW…mister 
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If you ask old Stoners if the Thaiseeds grown in the States turned out good, you get the Anwser: “principially NO”.
The lowered Sunitnensity alone wont let them express as nice.
Shure you can grow them in California or above , shure they will form out buds, but will never be the same as grown in more accurate Climate. Just giving further what i heard, i wished it was different…
I think towntripper is quiet right telling oklahoma , florida is roundabout like ok…
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Thanks misterbee. I’ll check that out.
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