Have a question that pops into your head but don’t think it deserves it’s own thread? Post it here.
To get this thing going:
I’m drying right now. I’m shooting for that 60/60 but the best I can do is 67/60.
Is there some sort of formula that you can use to predict readiness shorter or longer when you aren’t in the golden zone?
Thanks y’all and I look forward to reading all of your ‘not thread worthy’ questions here soon.
I wouldn’t sweat 67 Fahrenheit one bit.
That’s a great drying temp actually. My prediction is 10 days for perfect dry.
Excellent. What is the idea behind 60° ? Slow down the drying process even longer? Or does it have to do with THC degradation?
Volatile terpene loss is one of the biggest reasons for the cold it’s also to help slow down the release of moisture allowing time for the chlorophyll to off gas without getting trapped into the flower @Indicana_Jones
terpenes and secondary metabolites, THC can take higher temps (I believe). I havent been able to keep it lower than 70F cus i aint got no AC.
The first minutes of this video are interesting to understand different drying/curing approaches and the limited science behind it.
That’s awesome. The science behind it all is really interesting to me. Something I’m not clear about cuz it seems like they were doing a lot of hypothetical posturing, were they saying you need to do constant air exchanges during the dry? I thought that was only necessary at the beginning of cure.
I don’t exchange air while drying or curing.
During a photo to auto project, how do you determine which plants are flowering because they’re auto dominant, versus plants that start flowering because they’re root bound? I’ve had some photos do this, mostly just males, and it freaked me out because I thought the seeds were autos. Had no idea being root bound could trigger flowering to set in 
Edit: To further the question, if they’re flowering because they’re root bound, do they stall at some point, where a true auto will keep pushing into flower?
The conventional wisdom with autos is that you shouldn’t transplant. I’ve been known to break this rule.
Re: photo male rootbound. I find this unlikely. Males usually show first even in veg so that could be it. I sometimes keep photo plants in a 1L container for 6 weeks until they show with no issues.
Here’s another question for hydro growers.
Right now I’m running 3 gallon ebb n flow buckets. My baskets are like 10 inches across. Now that I’m cleaning these things out, this a bunch of bullshit and a lot of work.
If the 3 gallon buckets fills up with a giant plug of roots anyway, would it make a difference to get a much smaller basket lid. Like a 6in?
VS.
That’s a long time to hold your breath…
Smaller basket will likely just mean more of the roots in the bucket
And way less hydroton to clean at the end of the show. Right? Riiiiight?
I use a 6" basket on a 5gal bucket. Works well for me.
@MrWizard are you ebb n flow or RDWC?
I had some prematurely flower this year due to heat stress they did not reveg
I have transplanted over 50 autos successfully. Right at about 10-14 days from starter pots
RDWC
So let’s talk a little bit about plant spacing. I have an 18 site ebb n flow bucket system. I’m messing around with it in my space and the configuration is going to be a rectangle of 3 x 6.
Last run I smashed all 18 buckets into a 4x7 foot print. Luckily I only had 5 plants survive because they were cramped.
How much space do you leave between your buckets when you have to commit to spacing before you even pop your seeds?
