Any thoughts on what it is?
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When your water PH is high, it could be just that causing lock outs. I would start as ReikoX said, by lowering the PH to 6, that way you know that the plant has access to what it needs, before you can determine if its short of anything in the soil.
What your attempting to do is like fixing a problem on a car, without checking to see if there is gas in the tank. Once you know there is gas in the tank, you can look at what else is stopping it from starting.
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Ok, well here’s a question. Since I’m doing a TLO grow. What is the best way of “Lowering” my ph without hurting my microbes? Like I have root farm pH up & down but apparently their not good to use on this type of if grow. So I’m not sure the best way to adjust it is.
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I use organic apple cider vinegar to PH down, you could use lemon juice, or normal vinegar. I use potassium silica to PH up, if I PH my water to far down.
Unless you have a PH meter you could go to far the other way, and lock out your nutrients again, and be in the same position you are in now. Until you know what your putting into the soil, you are just guessing. water will rise in PH as it sits in a bucket. My tap water in Nova Scotia is 7.4 out of the tap like yours, when I leave it to gas off the chlorine, it is around a PH of 8.
So putting water in your pot a PH of 6 allows it to rise up to 7 or above also with the help of lime and calcium in the soil . As it rises the plant can access the nutrients at the time it hits the right PH. If you go to low in your PH it will take a lot longer for it to rise up to the right level if it does at all. That will depend on how much Lime/calcium is in your soil to raise it up.
I hope that helps.
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As long as you are not dumping a bottle of it on your plant, the microbes will be fine.
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I do have a digital Ph meter
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OKAY that’s good, half way there with the right equipment. As soon as you can get the water down around a PH of 6, for a couple of waterings, you should get an idea of what is going on better.
They don’t look too bad, but something is out, with the yellowing starting around the leaf edges.
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Looking good, I am interested to see how they do when trained.
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I’ll make sure to let you know. She’s only been trained. Nothing else, I don’t like to loose the time. Lol
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Yeah that’s why I am watching yours 
I just got 3 autos above ground and another about 6 inches tall, that is burning up bad and I damaged some leaves on it moving it around 
I might just reverse it to a male with some STS and use it for pollen, make some more fem seeds. I don’t think it’s going to make much bud from it’s troubled start lol.
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I did a pretty decent defoliation on my Critical Mass auto-flower I’m NEW to raising these auto-flowers! So I’m not to sure how much stress they can handle. However I removed a good amount of leaves at about 6ish wks going into 7 and we’ll see what happens.
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Anything that stresses the plant will slow its growth down, removing leaves has a double impact, stress and less photosynthesis, making the plant even slower in its growth, which is not good for autos as the clock is ticking, that’s the theory, now we will see what happens in practice 
You dont know until you try.
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I’m quite used to photos… However, autos I’m popping my “cheery” with this journal journey Critical Mass auto-flower but either way… It’s done NOW! So I guess we’ll see🧐
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I guess with AutoPeriods they finish when they finish and that’s it eh? (Ya I’m Canadian) but as for the stress I can’t really keep her going that extra week or 2 right??? I’ll definitely be watching her though come that 9 wk mark. I’m at day 48 Now!!!
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You can keep them going like Photos, but once senescence starts, your time is limited to the point where its not economical to spend the time and power gaining a little extra size. The plant shouldn’t lose anything letting them go a bit longer its a good experiment to find out.
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That kinda what I’m thinking… (Experiment) with what I’m playing with ATM. I’m already 2 feet in! Might as well continue on!
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