WHAB’s 1924 Brick Schoolhouse RDWC

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Hey there @LilJonB …good morning!,

What is this “finish” you speak of?!?!

I just brought my new Ebb & Flow project back to the 1924 Schoolhouse…

I plugged it in when I got back about a 1/2 hour ago. IF it passes this test, I’m going to start immediately converting it to a Reservoir Chiller.

I’ve never done it. I remember there were DIY how to’s sometime back but I can’t really find much on it, at least I can’t find anything using “DIY Water Cooler Chiller” search terms.

After that, get me a Dry Erase board so I can keep better track of what needs to be done!

My car needs some attention, brakes and oil system (low oil pressure indicated, really just an O-ring on the oil pick-up tube in the oil pan). I really need cabinets and drawers in the “Kitchen” here. I’d like to move both sinks, the bathroom sink and the “Kitchen” sink. I have to Winter-Proof the Water Softener system better.

After that, maybe I get around to writing my novel!

I insist you make it a great day, @LilJonB !

Back to Work!

.
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Test results look good! :tup:

The DIY Water Cooler, Reservoir Chiller begins!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

The DIY Water Cooler, Reservoir Chiller has me a little stumped.

Not sure how I can get that chill chamber into the Reservoir without bending those coolant tubes. I can’t just flip the whole thing over and dumped the chill chamber into the res

Once I find a way to remove it from the frame it will have to be supported by something, I don’t know what yet.

And, there doesn’t seem to be a way of removing those spigots. There most assuredly is, it’s just that I don’t see it!

I have the front panel completely loose but can’t remove it because the spigots go through it. I’m thinking about sawzalling it. Once I do that there is no turning back or back up a couple of steps.

Gonna just look at it for a bit and see what formulates in this Thought Process Machine of mine!

Any tips, pointing to instructions or opinions are welcomed!

,
WHAB

[LilJonB]

Awesome project! Just run the water from your reservoir to the cooler. Then from the cooler into the reservoir. How? I’m not sure. Lol.

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Hi @LilJonB

I thought of that, and that may be a route I take … but, that would require a pump in the Res, something I have purposely avoided. That would also require incorporating that tubing that the spigots are attached to. I don’t see how they come apart.

One good aspect of that plan is I wouldn’t have to bend the refrigerant tubing which is what I will have to do to submerse that chill chamber into the Res.

@LilJonB

I’m not sure

That makes two of us!

Thanks for contributing to the discussion, friend!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

My thinking is leaning more and more to pumping it in to the chill chamber.

I’m not sure how to best accomplish that modification.

I’m wondering if I can take the spigots off and pump the nutrient in one side and have it come out the other? They are both dispenser valves. I’m not sure if that idea will work on not.

I am going to try to think of a way to test that theory. I hope it will be that easy!

IF I have to pump nutrient in to where the water bottle just empties into the chill chamber then that gets chilled I think my pumps will pump too much nutrients too quickly in to the open chamber and overfill it, I think!

,
WHAB

[Oldjoints]

Dopest's "Cooler" DIY Chiller

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Thank you, brother!

That was very helpful!

Exactly what I had in mind originally.

Something is amiss with the “remove this thingamajiggy” instruction showing a plant in a rock!

And, the most crucial aspect I need help with if I go that route is not addressed, never mind instructed.

How did they bend those small refrigerant lines without kinking them?

I’m going through the 11 pages to see if someone, anyone discusses this crucial work.

I do thank you ever so much for the link, my friend!

,
WHAB

[ReikoX]

I bet a brake line bender would work a treat…

Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 25440 Tube Bender Pliers, Brake Line Bender, For 1/4" to...

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

I remembered that any water/liquid system can be checked/tested with air. I came up with a way to test it with air.

Forcing compressed air through the dispenser valve on the left (the room temperature side, not chilled) goes straight in to the chill chamber through the round hole in the plastic assembly in the middle of the chamber.

Forcing compressed air through the dispenser valve on the right (the cold side) doesn’t go in to the chamber. I’m not sure where that side goes.

IF I just take that chill chamber, flip it upside to get the refrigerant lines in to the reservoir, as some in that thread @Oldjoints linked to, 'm not sure how that would get the nutrient solution cold and out to the buckets!

It is the closet I’ve see to a DIY tutorial (Thanks, @Oldjoints!) but theirs are not really setup.

Dang! Where the heck is that cold side going. I may have to make a lid of some sort to force compressed air in to the chamber and see where it comes out. That ‘may’ work!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Hello @ReikoX ! Good to see you!

Thanks for chipping in!

That would work IF I had tubing in hand and worked it. Once I cut this chill chamber loose from the frame I’d have to hold the chill chamber as I formed the refrigerant lines.

It’s going to bend lines by its weight alone, IF I don’t take hold of it.

Maybe IF I eat more GMO foods I could grow 2 extra hands?!?! That would be ‘handy’ (pun intended)!

As a aircraft systems mechanic of many years to include hydraulic systems, I have a lot of experience bending lines…just not in a water cooler!

I do appreciate the assist, friend. I will keep it in mind as we reach a solution! Thank You!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Kids! Don’t throw anything away, ever! You never know when you’ll need it!

I was able to fashion a pressure bulkhead out of a 5 gallon lid I routered out for the 2 gallon inner buckets!

Putting compressed air to it, it does in fact come out the Cold side of the cooler. I don’t see how, though.

I am thinking about removing the Styrofoam shell and see what is under it.

I just spent nearly the entire time between my last post and this one dealing with PC problems (hanging up), Phone APP to PC problems (hanging up) then “Restarting” that took FOREVER getting through it (hanging up!)!

Holy Schnikies!

From the start I tried to remove the spigots. I figured this plastic is very old and would be fragile, relatively. I didn’t want to force anything and break it.

I did put a bit of force on the spigots and it did reluctantly turn out (loosen).

I did decide to remove the Styrofoam. Once I tore off a chuck I noticed the Styrofoam was strapped in place. They’re clear strapping.

Once I got the Styrofoam away I could actually see what was going on!

Now we’re getting some where (I ‘think’ )!

The thermostat probe (I forgot what that thing is called! ) fell out.

I’m pretty sure I can place it somewhere in the system somehow - possibly silicone it to the copper coil.

Still have to figure out how the water - nutrient in this case - gets cooled. It looks like (without further investigation) that I can just drop that coil into the Reservoir now - I ‘think’

Also, still have to figure out a way to get that cooling coil in to the Res without kinking those refrigerant lines. It is getting ‘a little’ easier to understand, though (I ‘think’! )!

IF you take anything away from this, kids, it’s NEVER throw ANYTHING away!

Back to Work!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Things just got easier, @ReikoX !

I had to bust up the other half of the Styrofoam. I didn’t see another way around it.

This will make it much easier for one person to hold the coil and form the refrigerant lines!

I’m already wondering what I can do with this - stainless steel tank! You know I’m not just throwing it away!

Accepting submissions on ideas regarding the future of this stainless steel tank!

Now I have to cut the metal shelf the copper coil runs through without damaging the important parts!

Back to Work!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

This is the BEST cutoff disc (Carborundum colloquially) mandrel I have ever used, and I’ve used a bunch!

Solidly holds the disc and is perfectly balanced!

I found it AFTER I was done mangling this damn thing!

I first tried the Sawzall. I couldn’t get it to even start a cut and I was too concerned with inadvertently hit the refrigerant lines.

I then used a hacksaw. It worked until I throated it out. I tried a hacksaw blade in hand and I couldn’t get it to continue the cut.

I then used a drill bit to drill nearly connected holes that I could wobble through the thin walls I left behind - but that left a sort of saw tooth edge on it.

I then used a rotary file to knock those points off.

I then grabbed a pair of Vise Grips to bend the metal out of the way to make a clear path to dislodge the lines from their former home!

I went all Primitive Pete on this damned thing!

SUCCESS!

The Thermocouple (the word I couldn’t think of earlier! :crazy:) is still trapped in that structure. Not sure if I will ever be able to get it out.

I had to try!

Success!

Now I need to place it and put it to work!

Let’s see what the temperature drop is by the next feeding - it’s feeding right now. Next feeding is 2 hours from now.

Back to Work!

,
WHAB

[JoeCrowe]

Are you going to protect the copper coil from the acid environment of the nutrient solution?

[G-paS]

@WhiteHotAfterburner

I found it AFTER I was done mangling this damn thing!

Always the case!

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Hey @JoeCrowe

I had not considered that - yet

I saw something about putting something in a bag but I didn’t read it through. Is that what they were referring to?

I’d be keen to hear if you’ve pondered it and have a solution?

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Did not make the 10 O’clock feeding!

Missed it by that much, Chief!!!

My next consideration - before figuring out how to wrap the coil (if required) - how to get the coil in the Reservoir.

I could cut a slot in the 55 gallon barrel OR cut the hole in the top of the barrel larger than it already was. Probably would have been easier cutting a slot - but, the last price on a 55 gallon barrel was around $110usd.

How to put an approximate 8 inch copper coil in a 6 inch hole? Not easily!

I had to have a center to find a center…the center was MIA! I had to fill the hole to mark the hole. There is a scribe mark in the reflection.

I’d rather buy a lid - IF ever needed one! But, cutting a hole larger than the existing hole isn’t all that easy, especially one that is so close to that manufactured edge.

I was finishing it up with a rotary file but it’s not going as well as I thought it would. Going to try a barrel sander (not so named for sanding barrels! )

While I was standing over the Res I noticed it is pretty low, relatively…it looks to be down around 12 gallons. Them Girls Thirsty!

Going to need to mix a batch of nutes as soon as I get done with this!

By midnight for sure!

Back to Work!

Lots of the above before my day is done!

,
WHAB

[ReikoX]

Not only the damage to the copper, but it will be toxic to the plants too. The first post on that ICMag thread suggested that plastidip stuff.

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Okay. I found it.

Yes, I’ll have to do some sort of isolating to the coil.

I’m not too keen on the plasti-dip or spray on plastic. It would seem you’d be insulating the nutrient solution from the cold coil. Maybe not to a degree making it useless, I don’t know.

I will bag it, double bag it maybe and then possibly triple bag it - like my last girlfriend! J/K ladies, it’s a joke!

Back to Work!

,
WHAB