The reviews on the Dr earth flower girl that I’m waiting on all say it drops your soil ph significantly. So if hi ph is my issue maybe that will help. Been to lazy to check ph regularly. I may get a soil probe to make it easier.
1 Like
I just use ph test strips I’ve got a blue lab combo but seldom use it . As long as your close the soil will adjust .
You can mix up a slurry with your soil and test strip it also .
1 Like
Thank you. I’ll watch the ph closer. That was my 1st instinct but I read that organics ph themselves.
1 Like
Showing more pics of your entire setup would help us help you too.
If you have space in the pots then you can install a compost tower as well, and keep filling it up with a wide diversity of kitchenscraps. 
Companion crops are also great to help buffering the water.
3 Likes
Starting to think they may just need amending. As big as they are
1 Like
Could very well be correct I use salts and 700 ppm 6 ft plants do fine .
1 Like
Hah, they need more soil volume if you don’t wanna use salts, no wonder it’s showing deficiencies.
Next time flip to flower when the plant is almost the same height as the pot.
I’d give them bigger shoes if you wanna stay organic and put a piece of tube/pipe in the bigger pot for amending with a wide variety of kitchenscraps and put a sock over the top to prevent flies.
When you have a cultivar that is known to stretch a rediculous amount you can start them under 12/12 lights too.
1 Like
These are actually autos. Just crazy stretchy ones
They self flipped at like 10 inches and still will finish just shy of 4 ft.
Wow, hahaha!
I just noticed, it’s only the top leaves, the bottom leaves are all fine, so it’s probably not root limitation, I think it’s your lights. Dim them or raise them perhaps.
I don’t like to see them praying like that…
Mine have only looked like that when my light was on 100% and too close.
1 Like
Yea probably heat stress but maybe not from my light. They go outside during the day and it’s been in the 90s. or maybe it is from the light spider farmer sf 4000 qb lite. As high as I can put it with the way they stretched and still get some light to the lowers.
Do you have any idea when they typically finish? How much time they got left?
Pack said 65-70 days which would leave about 4 weeks give or take. Look like they’ll go longer to me tho.
Then you know you can top them heavily next time.
As for now… perhaps some super cropping you can try on a side branch and check the reaction.
If recovery is fast then you can flop over the main one perhaps.
Lolol this was my fist autos. Also first soil run also first organic also first outdoor at least semi outdoor. I make my photoperiod plants do exactly what I want with heavy handed training. I don’t have the stones to bend these autos over or top like I always do. Will probably try topping next time specially I’d I use these seeds again
Hahaha, yeah, it’s quite something… what a way to start with auto’s, these are quite exceptional!
I’ve topped a handful different auto’s, in organics you can top them maximum once if they’re indica dominant, yield is gonna be roughly the same but you’ll have smaller colas which is a benefit in high humidity. Some get stunted when you top.
But with this cultivar you got there you can obviously go nuts. 
1 Like
I thought about super cropping the other day and gave em a bend to see but they are super woody. I think that ship has sailed. Next time they get topped at the 4 node or bent. I don’t love 1 main cola
1 Like
I’m just gonna point to the unmentioned elephant in the room, regardless if it has any relation to your current issue, not because I judge anyone for it, but because I’ve myself had to learn this the hard way.
Switching a plant between in- and outdoor is asking for issues.
Indoor, the goal is to create an environment free of pests, because the indoor environment creates the perfect environment for these pests, and thus they will thrive and population blooms will follow in quick succession.
Outdoor, the goal is to create a balanced environment where, if pests are ubiquitous in presence, predators are usually also present to some extent and will provide some counterbalance, and we work towards having this healthy balance by providing attractive plants for the beneficials, and by adding beneficials themselves, among other things.
IF you are living in the US, currently there are a shitload more people growing outdoors then where I live, and honestly even where I live moving plants from out- to indoor is a budding disaster waiting to happen. The more plants that cater to cannabis pests (so cannabis and hemp plants) in a given region, the more you will see insects that are more than happy with your outdoor plants as a host.
Bring them in, and you get not just the insect you brought in, but the mites they may have brought in, and then they start an all-you-can-eat hot tub beach party right in your indoor grow room.
Here’s a really interesting picture of a whitefly carrying broad mites along, just for a visual proof of how these awful types of critters work:
(for size reference, broad mites, just like hemp russet mites, are nearly invisible with the naked eye)
I hope your room is still clean and you manage to keep it that way, regardless what you do with this information. Best of luck!
About the issues at hand.
You are using a SIP. That means salts can not flush out. Your symptoms don’t necessarily need to be a salt problem, but it can be.
The advice I read here to give it a proper flooding with the right nutrient strength and lots of run-off is the best I have seen yet. I don’t think it’s a pH issue. I do think heat will be part of the equation here so moving your lamps up or dimming them a bit if they have a dimmer function will probably help your plants as well.
What it looks like to me is you have a combination of a starting salt buildup and heat.
Excerpts from The Cannabis Encyclopedia (Jorge Cervantes):
…in excess of 50ppm, sodium is toxic and induces deficiencies of other nutrients, primarily potassium, calcium, and magnesium… …Very low levels of sodium appear to promote higher yields in cannabis.
…Sodium excess causes potassium deficiency, which in turn causes internal temperature of foliage to climb and protein cells to burn or degrade. Evaporation is normally highest on leaf edges, wich burn.
…Using too much baking soda as a fungicide can also create an excess.
And on Potassium deficiency itself (same book):
…Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature of foliage to climb; beyond 104°F(40°C), it causes protein in cells to burn and degrade. To cool down, leaves evaporate moisture. Evaporation is normally highest on leaf edges, and that’s where the burning takes place. Up to 70 percent of a plant’s energy is “burned” to keep cool.
Potassium in excess also moves to these far areas, pores at the ends of the veins, and accumulates, causing this burn that is often confused with general salt burn but is not. The chlorosis must be seen first and a dulling in the cuticle layer of the leaf, all on older leaves.
6 Likes
I think so. I see you have room in the pots for more dirt. I would dump the plant out and put fresh dirt under it. That will buy you a little time. I do it all the time and the plants don’t skip a beat. Chicken manure pellets begin to work in just three waterings. Nice mix of all the main elements, + calcium in high %, and it will begin to burn out around thirty days after it starts to work. Perfect for an auto. I highly recommend you pick some up. Put a few tablespoons mixed in with your fresh dirt if you dump the plants out, and a few more tablespoons scratched Into the soil surface. ( The rate is one tablespoon per gallon of soil)Regular dry food will take too long to work. It’s great stuff, but needs to " cook" before becoming available. Bat guano will also work, but I never saw one with decent K numbers. Like others, I see potassium and calcium issues, but very minor issues if that’s the plant in question in the home depot bucket. I always had problems when I was growing in HD buckets. I don’t know why. Right around the same age the same thing would happen. I switched to fabric and have had much better luck. It’s also a good idea to use an old towel or shirt as not only “mulch”, but also to shade the pot. Cut a slit to the halfway point in the towel or shirt and put it around both sides of the stem, covering your soil, and draped over the sides to cover the bucket. It will keep the sun from cooking your exterior roots, which is where most of your roots are in a bucket. That plastic gets hot.
Good luck, whatever you do.
2 Likes