Two verified males went to the composting area (outside garden), waiting on a couple to show still.
I’m super stoked that the two Chem dog are female still. I really like that strain.
Here in the next couple days we will do some experimental training to see what we like best for the tent. I’m looking at 10 days after this to flip, is what I believe I read. How many days do I need to wait from transplant?
If your gonna flip in 10 days i would up pot now.That way any stress from transplant and training is done before you flip…The are looking nice and healthy bro.Can never go wrong with chemdawg .Happy growing bro
I think they need to root their current pots a bit more before I up pot, or the root ball won’t hold the soil together. I may need to change plans a bit, and get a scrog net.
You will definitely need a scrog net or mass super cropping if your going to veg till the roots fill those pots then up pot again…I know there are growers who like to up pot various sizes to their final pot size.I have always liked to do one transplant from 16oz cups to final pot size and then not have to worry about it again.
Also, we are trying out 3 lst methods. We supercropped some, topped some, and fim’d some. We will figure out which method we like the best and run with it. How do you do this? Experiment!
Deficiencies happen for multiple reasons. Just because it is in the soil, doesn’t necessarily mean it is available. Can I ask what is in your soil mix? And what are your watering practices like? Do you think they have been on the dry side? Kinda looks like a soil pH imbalance, but again more info would help.
I use Clackamas coots mix basically. For micros, I’ve added azomite, basalt rock dust as well as oyster shell flour and gypsum, and like I’ve mentioned , it does have kelp meal. This is the second grow in this soil, and it showed no deficiencies the first time around. The plants the first time around were started late, so they stayed pretty small. I did ammend slightly, so that’s what makes me wonder if it’s too hot.
I let it get pretty dry before I water. I’ve been waiting until our moisture meter reads 10%. Last time it was 15% when I watered, due to time constraints. I’ve been top watering, and I experimented with bottom watering last time, on one plant. This was a couple days ago, and I’m showing 22% on the pot that was bottom watered, so that may be a bit deceiving since the majority of the moisture is lower in the pot than the meter.
When you say coot’s mix, what percentage of peat did you use? And how much oyster shell per cu ft? Are you using tap water? And if so, is your tap water basic (higher than 7 pH?). I ask because there is a possibility your soil pH is too high. I would also be careful about changing up watering practices. If you have been top watering for a while, then roots will develop where you water. If all of a sudden you start bottom watering, then the plant needs to send out new roots to where it can find water. All of this can cause micronutrients to be less available. Also, with a living soil, I would recommend to keep things a little more moist rather than a little too dry.
I need to run to work, but I have some info on watering practices. I’ll try and dig it up (pun intended lol) and I’ll post later.
I add a cup of each ammendment to 2 cu ft of mix. 1/3 of it is peat moss, 1/3 compost, 1/3 perlite, plus 6-8 cups of ewc and a couple cups of rabbit poo. I need to check on the water there I suppose. The water I used on the previous grow was between 7-8 ph per city test results.
I shouldn’t have to mess with the ph with this mix so I’ve read. This is one of the big reasons I went with this method, all the buffers in soil.
I only bottom watered the one plant, so that couldn’t be the cause. I may go to bottom watering eventually because of the benefits of that style.