for a second I thought you were saying you bought a Suzuki Samurai so you could race AMC Gremlins.
my immediate reaction was “this guy knows how to party”
for a second I thought you were saying you bought a Suzuki Samurai so you could race AMC Gremlins.
my immediate reaction was “this guy knows how to party”
I’m imagining a man, driven to the ends of the earth to race AMC Gremlins. That is a man I’d like to meet.
Ironically, I’d probably watch that over today’s Formula 1
cue “The Distance” by Cake
Nice to see thread is still going
Just got a 2009 RAV4 AWD V6
…waiting for amazon & tirerack, off to the suspension shakedown & diagnostic today.
Putting Hawk HPS brake pads on-- my favorite compound. Always pick my tires based on wet-traction performance first.
Swoop. Nice ride.
I’ve been eyeballing the Rav4s. The woman wants a CRV. Doh
My buddy had an early Rav4. Fun times in it.
A mehanic friend recommended them & I looked up the HP-- very good IMO 270(California, >314! JDM). It’ll be going to Hawaii & should be good except the fuel economy is low. Can tow up to 3500lb so if I need a trailer full of shit it could work.
I hit a wall guys, I wanted a large winch for the Samurai, but every aftermarket bumper size caps out at either a Warn M8000 or a Smittybuilt 9500. The Warn is 500 dollars more. I’m leaning toward the warm, because the M series is supposed to be higher quality, but the Smittybuilt has higher capacity. I’m not sure. What do y’all think?
Edit: Fabing my own bumper isn’t an option.
With running winches for many years I’ve used warn but not smitty built they all have weak points electric motor burning out or melted solenoids, stripped gears, broken drums . May I suggest running a heavier power and ground cables installing a power cut off switch and using winch rope instead of cable . Also a snatch block and nylon strap are handy to have .
Was in the towing business for 30 plus years and found all the weak points in electric , they do make a conversion to use hyd. Running off the power steering pump and a larger reservoir bit more involved and a bit pricey but a far better option . Your vehicle is quite light so unless you plan to tie yourself to a tree and yank out stuff twice the size you are then electric is a easier option.
Found this pair of 50s Jubilee horns in my garage. Hi/Lo Jub.
I refurbished them in the 90s. Lol
Waiting for a relay/harness and horn button to install them on the G.
Ok, here’s one…my buddy’s engine lights go on and it says PO410 when I hook up my Thingy-ma-jig scanner to it to read the numbers…anyone have any suggestions?
It’s been a while since I actually did this stuff, so verify with a repair manual or the dealer that it’s actually a 2ndary-air-inj code.
Doesn’t mean the part is broken…could be a leak, etc.
(electric air pump, usually plastic, pumps air into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter to raise the temperature at start-up)… sometimes you can hear them operate for a short period on start-up.
Have a competent mechanic look at it.
It’s an emissions control part, not a safety item, so it might not matter, depending on locale. In California it’s a capital-felony & they live-stream your execution by pillowfight.
He’s taken it to a couple mechanics and they both said its an emission thing. They don’t check emissions in they area he lives in…they also told him that can drive to Cali and back with no problems.
The only down-side to that strategy is that if & when something else goes wrong, that MIL or check engine light will still be the same. It should be an easy fix or workaround, IMO(like bypassing a leaky heater core), but guesstimating.
Why would I have someone competent look at it, when I can? Incompetence is cheaper!
Swapped a distributor in my wife’s 2001 frontier this weekend. It was easier than anticipated. She’s happy with how it runs, so that’s all that matters.
Remember bitterness of poor quality remains long after
The sweetness of the low price is forgotten.
I totally get that. I have a Chilton, and I’ve been working on my stuff for years. I’ve had many less issues than people who have taken their stuff to “competent” mechanics.
I also went oem on this replacement.
For all the Jeep Wrangler owners out there,
My word of advice, if its not leaking oil, it’s out of oil.
Haha, that reminds me, I need to change my oil pan gasket and rear main seal soon.
Arghhh.
I’m reminded…
My 95 G10 van.
Stop leak doing the trick for now.
Lol