Ok this is just how I do my cloning other methods products and equipment are available.
Equipment;
Timer
T5, flourescent, LED light.
Propogator.
Rockwool cubes 1.5" for personal use and 1/2" for comercial use 
1/2" are cheaper.
Conex rooting gel
A small screwdriver ( I use the one for calibrting the ph pens, like a jewelers screw driver, a match stick will work also)
Scalpels
Scissors
Glass of water (from mix/solution for soaking cubes)
Small plastic cup (clear measuring caps/lids from calibration fluid bottles I use)
Clean sterile chopping board
Plastic rubish bags (for the rubbish)
Donor plant (mother plant)
1 spray / misting bottle
Tape measure
1 week before cloning the mother plant, I start to have her well fed and sprayed with nitrozyme on an evening just before lights off, to ensure plenty of fresh new growth tips.
24 - 36 hours before taking clones;
I make a solotion 10 litre solution / nutrient mix in a 15 litre bucket with the following using tap water to start, EC approx 0.2 - 0.4 EC and a ph of approx 7.2ph
Formulex 3ml/l (growth technology)
Nitrozyme 5ml/litre (growth technology)
Canazyme 2.5ml/l (Canna)
Root stimulator 1ml/l (B’cuzz)
To acheive an EC readin of 0.8EC - 1.0EC depending on the starting point ec of the tap water.
I want to have approx 0.6 -0.8 of food in the nutrient solution mix. So the formulex is the variable in this mix if I need to higher the EC level, all the others stay at the same ratios.
I then use PH correction fluid to adjust the ph to 5.5ph - 5.8ph
Then I add the cubes usually a tray of 77 x 1.5 inch rockwool cubes. I have 2 brands available Grodan and Cuteiline.
I leave them to soak for 24 - 36 hours, on return the ph has risen to 5.8 - 6.0 and temp is at 18c
Now I have all my clean and sterile propogators lined up with lights to go over them. I take the base of the propogators and put in the black plastic trays the cubes came in, these act as their stand or pot. I place the cubes into their wholes after giving a slight squezze or shake to get rid of the excess solution, theyare still wet but closer to moist than wet and not dry. The excess is collected in a waste bucket not back into the same mix and cube bucket.
Once all the cubes are placed, i do mine like a checkers board unless tight for space then next to each other. If only cloning a few get a propogator suited to your requirements, to big not enough humidity, too small over crowded and too high humdity leading to molds and uneven success of clones. Now I take my screwd driver and measure against the cube height about 2/3 of the way down, I dont want the clone sticking out of the bottom of the cube, but not all the cubes holes are even so I make them even using the screw driver, 2/3rds of the cube height from top to bottom. If its too baggy i make a new hole with the screwdriver. I want the clone spiked correctly and gently, not sittin gloose inthe hole but spiked into the last 1/3 of solid un skewered rockwool. The smaller 1/2 inch cubes are thinner but taller and more forgiving in this respect i find.
Now I have all my cubes ready, pre spiked skewerd holes and soaked at the required EC 0.8 - 1.0 and PH 5.8-6.0
I have a bottle of nitrozyme mixed in a spray mister with 5 ml/l to tap water at 18c
Scalpel, choping board, scissors, tape measure pulled out or ruler at 15cm so I can make all clones at 10-12cm tall to suit my propogator, when the clone is in the cube approx 8-10cm will be above and 2 cm in the cube spiked.
Glass of the mix the cubes were soaked in, if taking multiple clones at time.
I now cut the branch I want to tkae the clone from bearing in mind what im leaving behind for new growth, it either goes straight to the chopping board or if doing multiples into a glass while taking others, then to the chopping board.
I place it against my measure to see where im going to cut as I have cut more stem than I need by several centimeters, then carefully strip away the preflowers and any lower branches / internodes. I only keep the top 2-3 set of leaves / internodes trimming the rest below off using the scalpel or scissors. I try to make the point of selecting where i will cut with the scalpel to include a trimmed internode that will be going into the rockwool, this acts like a barb on a fishing hook, and also gives a larger area for the rooting hormone as well as naturally containg more hormones for rooting in that area of the stem. Its not always possible but I try to get that if possible.
WhenI actually cut the stem I cut at a 45 degree angle along the stem to increase surface area again, if there are any tatty bits from a bad cut or blunt blade I trim it at 45 degrees across from the other side so it then looks like an arrow or sharp pencil point. I trim the internode if left on too.
I will draw on some pics borrowed from other members here in this thread trying to explain exactly where I prefer to cut with the scalpel.
Once the excess is trimmed of and the clone is cut with the scalpel (this is done in seconds) I place the bottom 1 cm into the rooting gel, (clonex that is in a clear plastic cup). I give it about 30 seconds to a minute, as Im usually doing multiples so its like a conveyor belt
Then I take the clone and spike it. By this I mean place it into the rockwool cube, I want it to actually pierce into the base just of the cube, not sit loose in it. Once I have spiked it I press the rockwool into the hole around the clones stem to secure it tight using the point of my fiskers but kind of level with the cube side on. Tucking it in so to speak.
At this point I trim the ends of the fan leaves left on and any more excess I dont want on it leaving the top 2-3 sets of leaves / internodes. I cant stress enough this is somethig done in seconds not minutes, you don’t want the cut end of the clone in AIR or you get an air lock in the stem, some people hold them upside down toprevent this. If doing multiples the stem is sat in the nutrient mix to stop that. If storing them for later, they want to be cut much longer than needed bagged and put into a fridge at about 3 degrees.
Then I plac einto the propogator, spray with nitrozume mix inthe mister and place on a 24 hour light cycle for 24 hours only. Depending how fast you are at filling the propogator, creating humidity, having the right temps and Rh% the clones will bend over and wilt in the first 24 hours. I have all the vents closed and the temp at 21 c at this point RH in the 80-90 range, mist runnning down inside of the propogator etc
After 24 hours all the clones are stood up straight, I put the timer on 18/6. I wipe the lid of the propogator several times a day, and start opening the vents very slightly on the second day, and increase the vent opening each day.
I spray with nitrozyme each night before lights out, and start to see roots typically on day 5-7 depending on the strain.
If the cubes start to feel light on day 3 I use a fresh batch of the same solution they were soaked in (the cubes) dip and gently squeeze the excess to run off. Some may take longer than others to root and may require dipping 2 or 3 times.
Once rooted I transplant into plastic cups with soil in, I watet them in using the same solution, they then are damped off, slowly taken out of the propgator and high humidity, by lifting the lid up and propping up with wood to allow airflow through for a day. Then the lid comes off and they are plants themselves, new clones / rooted plants.
After I see roots coming throught the soil to the sides of the cups Its then time totransplant to their final pot for me other methods vary.
Then once spiked into cube, trim the fan leaves like this. Do this after spiking in the cube to prevent air gettting into the stem.
And hopefully you end up with a lovely clone that becomes a plant like these;
Once out of the propogator I like to have them at 25-27c and 50% humidity. This is acheived slowly throughthe damping off period as they acclimatise to coming out of the propogator from a lower temp and higher humifdity.
I have seen many growers fail at his point and there clones leaves curl up and they wither away because they have not been damped off or acclimatised. thi shappens mostly when taking from under flouros or leds to hps or mh lamps and the higher temp and low humidity just crucify a samll clone.
I hope this helps you @Kingtut and @Uncle_Al
Any questions just fire them away at me. This is just my method that I learned to do and have good sucess other methods are availabe.
Thank you to the other mebers who pics I have borrowed and drawn on 
Edit, when spiking the clone hold it firmly but not too tight as to crush the stem. When I say this if you ever press the main stem to slow down the main cola you know how hard you rpressingto damage the stem cell structure, you dont want to grip the clone that tight. It has to be firm bu tnot to crush the stem, this is where a lot of peole fail that I teach. I can show watch and monitor everything else what I cant show is how hard to grip only try and explain. Gentle but with enough force to grip it while pushing it just into the rockwool so its spiked. If you have to pull it out agin for nay reason immediately re dip in clonex before re spiking.
