Yeah September looks doable so only issue is cold restrictions and available DLI.
50 8.7
Big chunks lost further North you go
My area is like this
For Redding Ca
Probably sorry you responded but that’s how I roll 
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No, that’s an important point you are making there.
Sunlight hours vary from a minimum at the equator (+/- 6.5min) to months of darkness or daylight at the poles.
I’ve had 3+ months of 24Hr. daylight… it’s weird… 
Cheers
G
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That’s why there isn’t much incentive to grow something late/long flowering you can’t harvest before the end of September at 50°. As I said my location might be a little better than your DLI chart suggests, we have more hours of sunlight than most at 50° North (dry, less cloud cover etc.).
There is a lot of weed grown traditionally with short growing seasons and (some of) the weed I’ve grown over the years got me a good effect. If you look at what is commercially grown in CA most of it is probably short flowering, high thc and high yielding which in it self does not make it good weed. As a outdoor home grower in CA you have more options of course than at 50°.
Not at all sorry, when I compare your Indoor DLI-chart with what I have naturally at my Location my DLI is not that far off from what the chart says if you don’t use CO2 supplementation.
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The stuff from N. California triangle area do very well here just need to select for or grow the types I like.
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Can you grow Autos in this conditions?
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Probably…
veg should be fine but flower is where you will see differences. I’d imagine the yields will be somewhat lower. That’s not to say you wouldn’t get some acclimatization in a few generations.
OR
Alaska was well noted back in the 70’s for growing huge veggies in the 24Hr light.
So you might get larger plants going into the flower stage and therefore larger yields.
That would be an interesting experiment…
Cheers
G
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Is cannabis a C3 and it doesn’t matter? I mean doesn’t need dark phase.
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Still have to define dark in some subarctic areas
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So what I think my current grow is teaching me is that there is a correlation between day length at the onset of flower vs how much flower stretch you get.
I flowered rooted clones indoors and had short internodel spacing and uniform stretch to bud production at 12 hours of light.
The same plant outdoors started to flower the beginning of august. Since then has stretched 1/3 its size with minimal flower maturation. About the same seen indoors at 1.5- 2 weeks.
10 weeks indoors at 12-12 but it looks like it will take 12-14 weeks outdoors
One can argue it’s solely the lack of proper growing conditions (rainy/cloudy days) that makes the difference. I use some supplemental lighting so personally think there is a correlation…
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Forget subartic - try Suburbs
everyone of my neighbors has flood lights my plants are never in full dark.
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Well if I cross say a 16 week Thai with an 8 week DC what do you think the average flowering time might be? Would something that flowers and finishes at 8 weeks at 47 degrees North finish faster than the same plant say at 34 N? What would cause this difference? Will the morphology of the plant change due to the changes in DLI and the rate the day lengths change from day to day.
There is a lot of question in there and it sems hard to answer, a plant might finish quicker at a higher latitude for various reasons.
I would say the morphology of a plant can change because of location. Even the altitude on the same latitude will change a plant. If we are talking f1-f2 hybrids and not a single cut from a plant then there is going to be huge variation based off of what the humans select.
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Yes I looked at your extra light issue from urban jungle and it has an effect. I have these 8 week types that will flower where I am at any time of the yr down here once they reach maturity and need to have extra light put on them to keep them from flowering. I had to get an additional 100w led to add more energy to bring the shaded portion of the plants from flowering.
The 8 week DC and 16 week Thai cross ended up finishing just a little under 12 weeks but could have taken it longer maybe. The smoke was nice but the lighter high and loose buds were the result. I found the other hybrid type I crossed with the Thai was a little larger but the effect or potency was lacking what the DC x Thai had.
It’s not a recessive trait it is codominant witnessed by the spread in the F1. Have at it but the fact remains that rudaralis is inferior hemp weed and you are just throwing hay on the pile of hay you hope to retrieve a needle from. And no, you won’t be able to keep a clone of either an elite grower or breeder. It is just a big fat wheel spin as far as I can tell.
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I would love to grow a 14 week Haze but unfortunately this is futile at 50° north. The most interesting path is probably find an early flowering plant and see if I can cross it to something with like a ten week flowering time…
I heard some breeder (I think from Atlasseed) talking about the ability of keeping (pure) Auto-clones in a Lab. At the moment it’s to expensive for commercial breeders to keep such an Auto-clone (but the possibility seems to exist). For now breeders are breeding Autos with seed lines but that might change in the future. Independent of the clone issue I would love to see what a 130-150 day auto started in early March can do at 50° latitude.
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FWIW Khalifa Beldia will flower when it’s mature, whatever that means exactly. You can expect around 5 weeks of veg, then around 5 weeks of stretch and then flower. This will work at your latitude. You will get huge ass trees if the pot is big enough. Beware that semi-autos (or at least this one) can be revegged, unlike ruderalis-based autoflowers. So you have to pay attention to light pollution. Don’t ask me how I know. 
Unless you are starting them indoors with artificial light, the only thing they will do is get lanky, fall over and die. The light is not right for seedlings in March at your latitude. Even if they survive, the important ~4 weeks of vegetative grow for a ruderalis autoflower are wasted under unfavourable conditions and the plants will not be happy.
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I was hoping for the opposite. My understanding (of semi-autos) was if they start flowering it’s go time. On the other hand the Beldia is supposed to be a sativa and as far as I know they are more sensitive to light (because changes of day length near the equator are much smaller than elsewhere).
That is true. I just checked my notes for this year, we had 0° nights around April Twenty. I had tried to put some plants (photos) outside in early/mid April and they freaked out and started flowering. Starting Autos inside mid April and putting them out mid May is probably a better choice.
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Cuttings of both Beldia plants reveged under 18/6. I have not tried with Sinai.
I started the Beldia end of March and put them out beginning of May I think. Worked fine but I closely watched the weather forecast for frost nights.
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I cut down my fastest one this morning. Had a few spots of bud rot like I was worried about. It got a little pm a week ago and instead of picking it out, I just cut that branch. So I got to test a unfished lower branch, and its still quite nice.
The first clones are alive and still struggling, but coming out of it. And I got roots on one of the newer cuts. Everything else I cut that day is rooted, but the further in flower the cut, the longer it takes to root. Anyway, she lives.
I think I will reverse her onto herself and a few of her sisters indoors this winter. I also want to graft a copy of the mom wedding crasher onto the fastest ones rootstock sense I know when they both finish, and see if flower is sped up outdoors next year. The plants all look and smell great. Enough that I wish I had kept the dad around to do a seed run, and see what he does to other crosses. I still have enough of these seeds for me to hunt later, but not for sharing. If she works as rootstock to speed up other things, that would also be a very cool thing.
I’ll get better pictures of the sisters at some point. I made these for personal use so was a lil sloppy on timing. I had an outdoor male last year when I made these indoors. I’m certain two of the 8 sisters are only half sisters and got pollen from outside. They are huge, smell more like the suspect, and are regular timed flowering. One of them also had extra spikes, and there was multileaf in the suspected dad. This spring I had a male indoors that was WAY slower/bigger than the rest and wasn’t used. The good news is, thats means the flowering time of these is more consistent than I thought. I’m curious to see how consistent the F2s timing will be.
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I finally read through this thread and gave it some thought so here goes. Most of our genetics have come from elicit growing and growing in the northern areas. Not much selection was based on outdoors so just flip 12/12 and go. A person growing an Afghani or Paki IBL would expect it to flower when it can take advantage of the growing season. If I have. DC flowering any time during the year at 34 degrees does that mean that it originally did this? Maybe selection for super finishing time was more important and that longer growing trait was selected against. I imagine that acclimation for more southern growing types makes sense so steering that direction might help and produce different results?
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