Thanks for sharing that. I’ll likely use some links.
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You’re welcome! I wish I had your land to do some of the things they describe, you would probably like their beekeeping research column:
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Fantastic! This is a bookmark for sure 
How are the beans doing today?
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Some excellent reading, thanks for sharing.
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I do my best!
Thanks Paps, I hope something in there makes this season OD go better or easier for ya!
Funny you should ask:
Nothing new up but everyone looking good, gonna transplant some tomorrow and split up the work.
10/10 Copa testers Carbon Killerz x Durb/Lamb
3/3 Congoz V
1/3 Koffee x Deadlights
3/3 African Queen
1/3 AfroBub
2/3 Bangi Haze x Black Triangle Remix
0/3 Bodega Bubblegum x Nigerian Sunshine
6/8 Cherry Destroyer
Everyone got watered twice now with some E-Z Root and a little kelp and fulvic
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Admin reveal:
I’m a New York cat but different (bad slash funny shaped feet) so I only wear those German Timberlands:
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Beware, seems the phone ain’t smart enough to cover you in the glass reflection in the 1st pictures.
Nice big beard! 
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Very good point! I didn’t notice that, thanks for the sharp eyes. I am not going to worry because that’s low enough resolution I’m ok with it, I’m in a legal state and not very concerned.
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Stardawg x JTR at bedtime after a final defoliation going into her last week or so, she’s got calyxes on some of her leaves!
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Hmm, $30 DIY moisture sensor with Wi-Fi…
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I run nine in 4x4. In three gallons.
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No new sprouts to report this morning- everyone alive is still alive and everyone in the ground is still down there. Taking the crumbs off the holes and looking inside, seems like there’s one or two just taking their time but growing and then the rest not doing much, just that thing where instead of a root they get sort of little white rooty bloops aroind the seam but never get out, I might crack those later today before they rot and die.
Flipping the next round today if it kills me, got some done last night but a ton of pruning defoliation and repotting to do today along with giving the tent a bleach wipe down and the plants a pyrethrin spray before the flip.
@dinopartychucks Hashtastrophe are the two biggest girls in the tent by far, absolutely hulking Amazons he’s breeding:
Been moving tents and lights and recabling everything outward from my power and timer station where my 20A mains AC circuit comes in through my Kill-A-Watt, getting it all up on the rafters so I can have back all the cup hooks I’ve been using for that so far and have the correct length cables in place to make it neater. I like to use a piece of beeswax or a tin of clear jacket wax or shoe dubbin to hold my fasteners, my machinist grandfather taught me this one. Keeps the sharp tips safetied until you need one, and puts a little lubricant on the tip to separate the wood fibers more smoothly, it’s also a great thread locker for wood screws or nails. Support your local beekeepers! I get these bars for $3/ea at the farmers market from an apiary, they’re the exact same molds as they used to have a box of next to the register at the hardware store growing up. Or hit up @beebud to trade for some or get his website to purchase, I have some chunks of wax and propolis from him to try a DIY leather conditioner with soon, when I have all the ingredients together. I still need a bottle of mink oil and I have to go gather pine pitch blobs to melt down into it. Those four things are basically what most traditional boot grease is made from besides tallow or lard, which I don’t use along with petroleum products. Animal fats besides mink or weird stuff like cow/horse shin bone fats (what we call Neatsfoot oil) aren’t great because they stiffen at low temps and also decompose and get stinky. I like to stick to the basics and keep it good and food grade since I condition with my bare hands most of the time.
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Very interesting
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If anyone needs supplies I like to order my perlite from here ,it ships free and they do discounts on two bags or more. Also a great spot for pots, anything else for indoor or outdoor growing at normal not weed prices:
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@JustANobody @Weednerd.Anthony I had to pull up the email reciept for my last order because I was remembering how silly it felt when it showed up and I was like “what the eff I spent a bill and they delivered all this to me?”
About to set up that Megaphoton for the first time but it looked pretty good upon opening it up, definitely okay for the price 
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I love that band, haha. Sorry carry on
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@breadwinner That’s going to be my Moody Blues glitch project name
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lol I was thinking about all the different leather conditioners I’ve used over the years, I generally stick with “dubbin” which is the British term for uncolored wax/oil treatments, and they’re made with some really gnarly things:
“It consists primarily of various waxes and oils. Commercial dubbin contains petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin wax, neatsfoot oil, and naphtha (C10-12 alkane/cycloalkane),.[2] More traditional dubbin can be made with beeswax; fish oil; and lard.[3]”
I use a lot of leather bicycle saddles, and the biggest brand, Brooks England, are supposed to get treated with their Proofide Wax, which I’ve never used past the first tin I bought. It works great but the main ingredients are tallow and fish oil and boy does it smell in hot weather! It’s also grossly overpriced, the bike tax is just like the green tax for growers. Instead I use Montana Pitch-Blend or Cobbler’s Choice products now, which smell nice and woodsy, my partner is partial to Huberd’s for the smoky apple-y smell.
Pretty minimal and clean natural smell, yellows and darkens leather but not too bad especially the oil. I mix this oil with ISO and hot water in a spray bottle then shake it up to emulsify and you can spray it onto large garments or furniture, car seats, tack, etc. That’s how I condition roughout and nubuck leathers without smoothing them, you spray this on then work it through gently with a brass brush:
This place in CT is a great cobblers supply company I like a lot for things I don’t get direct from the manufacturer:
Best $4 you can spend on your nappy boots IMO
The most modern brand, everything is very unscented and they use USP or food-grade ingredients that are mostly colorless. The least impactful on leather finishes in my experience, other than the really expensive stuff like Saphir.
Real smelly like pine tar, darkens leather the most
“The exact ingredients are a trade secret and proprietary information of Huberd Shoe Grease Company LLC. We can say that both our Shoe Grease and Shoe Oil use beeswax and pine tar. And our Leather Dressing contains genuine neatsfoot oil.
Pine Tar has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties which help protect your leather. It has been used for centuries to treat and preserve wood, rope, and leather. It is also an old time treatment for skin issues as it is also anti-itch and anti-inflammatory. Some people can have a skin sensitivity to pine tar so test or use gloves if that’s the case for you.
We use 100% unfiltered, untreated beeswax containing propolis. It smells amazing and has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. It is also moisturizing and waterproof. Two more properties that are important for your leather gear.
Neatsfoot oil is used to soften leather that has become hard or brittle. If you over apply it, it can over-soften your leather. We blend it with a secret sauce of other oils and ingredients. Even so, you want to be careful to not overuse products containing neatsfoot oil.”
I haven’t used Obenauf’s myself yet, but it’s highly regarded by firefighters and loggers, my DIY dubbin is going to be something like a hybrid between MPB Leather Dressing and Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP:
If anyone ever has leather care questions hit me up here or in a DM, I keep meaning to start some new threads about DIY and restoration/repair/maintenance stuff I’m doing but haven’t gotten around to it. I was thinking of something along the lines of DW’s DIY Dungeon where people hit me with a problem and limited resources and then I try to DIY it for them, what do people think about that? Might be fun for everyone
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It’s funny to me all the parallels I find.
I use Obenauf for most of my leather with good results. Shoes, belts, boots, sheaths
The beeswax for nails and staples is a new concept for me but one I like, thanks for sharing!
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You’re welcome dude, lately I’ve also been using a tin of refinishing wax for canvas, since I picked up half a dozen cans on closeout a while ago. I have Martexin but they’re all pretty similar, each brand has a slightly different proprietary blend of waxes and oils and the Tex Wax is also good, or my friend uses Greenland Wax happily to wax his G-1000s for the winter then wash it out for the summer.
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Dyeing-Finishing-Co-Martexin/dp/B01AKS3XXW
There are lots of other good waxes out there for retreating or waxing fabrics and other stuff- Cobblers Choice makes one, Otter is probably the most ubiquitous, Filson Oil Finish, Barbour Thornproof, they’re all good just all a little different.
The basic DIY recipe for a bar of something basic like Greenland Wax is 20/80 paraffin/beeswax, but you can slide those ratios to about 50/50 depending on climate. Waxed garments are generally better for cooler climates but beeswax is more malleable and stiffens/cracks less at lower temps than paraffin, so someone at a high latitude might use a lot of beeswax. I’m at 43N so I would blend more paraffin probably 30/70 so that my garments were more useful in transitional weather. Too much beeswax and the fabric gets greasy and sticky at a warmer temp, too much paraffin and it’s uncomfortably stiff and loud, and the finish cracks off more when it’s cold. There are other waxes you can use, Martexin uses vegetable waxes in their blend, most likely carnauba or candelillia wax given how old their recipe is, but they might have switched to modern fully hydrogenated oil waxes, which are what a soy candle is. Carnauba and candelillia are naturally occurring waxes, extracted from the biomass of certain equatorial species of waxy-leafed plants. Carnauba comes from Brazil, candelillia from Northern Mexico and the desert Southwest/Texas.
If you melt the wax and add a solvent of some sort (traditionally turpentine or naptha, I use either low-odor or green no-odor mineral spirits which are the lowest odor type, that odor is benzene and toluene which are taken out as they keep refining it cleaner) or blend it with a drying oil (this is the Filson oil finish) like linseed or walnut then you’ve got a softer product that melts into fabric easier. Use the softer stuff to saturate newly waxed fabrics then freeze it and flex it a lot to knock off the extra, and then the harder bars are used for final surface treatment or restoration of existing waxed fabrics.
About mineral spirits and volatile hydrocarbons from the WoodNet.net forums:
Best way I’ve found to melt it in really well is to fold or roll the garment up into a turkey bag, seal it, and put it in the oven at a low temperature like 150F for an hour or two, maybe flip it around a few times.
Hope this helps somebody stay dry and looking sharp!
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