Doing the root pruning thing again, this time with MicroKote

Oh yeah for sure:

"Cannabis Challenges
Paclobutrazol (aka PBZ or Paclo), which has no permitted food use and a detection threshold of 0.01 ppm, is regularly detected in cannabis samples. Its use is only allowed on ornamental crops. Paclo is a plant growth regulator (PGR) that inhibits gibberellin plant growth hormone biosynthesis, thereby reducing internode growth to give stouter stems, and increasing root growth.

In cannabis, Paclo is added to a variety of nutrient products (e.g., PhosphoLoad, Gravity, Bushmaster, Flower Dragon, etc.) and is used by indoor sinsemilla growers to produce short and highly branched, dark green plants with extensive root systems and rock-hard buds."

Bushmaster is the one I’ve come across most commonly in grow shops.


I was pretty sure a bunch of these are banned in certain states :thinking:
Can’t even order the stuff anymore…

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Well, either my 24g/L solution is too weak, or it takes more than 24hr to work, or cannabis roots look at cu ii oxide and laugh, or the left over waterproof outdoor sealant i used is too bonding…

MicroKote is like glue. Once it sets, it’s there to stay. Roots grow into the paint and terminate.

My garden is really growing out of control now. All cultural factors have come together and they’re loving it. It’s about time to go 12/12.


Call up MicroKote and tell them Uncle Ben sent you. $19.50 is worth it. 8 oz. goes a LONG way.

That guy owes me a case after all the publicity/sales I got him many years ago after doing my Grifflin’s Spin-Out drill. Was un-aware of it too until we talked. He developed the original Spin-out, so he says.

If it’s already root bound you’re a bit late to the party.


Nice thanks! So it stops new tips only? I can always root prune area or add more cuO. Im stubborn

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Root tips which induces profuse root branching.


When the root tips are terminated it induces a big flush of roots about 4" behind that point to create a fibrous root system. Think of the affect as topping but below ground.


Thought you’d be interested, if unsurprised, to see this post:


Thanks. I conversed with Chimera back in the day both privately and on OG. Wonder what happened with the old boy.

As an aside, I planted 2 Maui Wowie about a month after the others and it’s quickly overtaking them in stature, size. Why? Because it got upcanned after being in the 20 oz. Styro-Cups only a little while. I will hit the one in the back center with paclo today, a 4 ppm solution.

Canna Garden 2022-23

Nov. 12, 2022 – Sowed 2 Sensi Hindu Kush, 2 Cannacopia Lapiz Mtn. indica, 3 Tom Hill’s (Freak) Deep Chunk and 3 1990 Master Kush X Afghaan 90

Nov. 15 – All three 1990 MK X Afgh. 90 up.

Nov19 – 1 Deep Chunk is up. Growing: 1 Sensi Hindu Kush, 3 1990 Master Kush X Afghaan 90, 1 Lapiz Mtn. indica, 1 Deep Chunk indica. Seedlings are in a (mostly) cold greenhouse. Given full sun via the wall vent, but mostly cloudy weather daily. Lots of cold nights. Deep Chunk is a runt.

Dec. 7 – Now under 50% KS5000 light which is hung 22” above tops. Also growing are 2 BHN 589 tomato. Going to a 18/6 for the first time today. Applied 1 heaping tsp. MycoApply® Soluble MAXX microfine powder in a gallon of rainwater.

Dec. 10 – Topped up cups with a sandy soil mix that had blood and bone meal. Deep Chunk is stunted. Light is 50%, 18/6. Sowed 2 Nirvana Maui Wowie in separate cups and chile petine seeds in a cup.

Dec. 14Maui Wowi are up.

All plants are beautiful except for the 3 Master Kush 1990 X Afghaan 90 cross. Those 3 plants looked stunted with a few twisted leaves…just not robust. I’m thinking they don’t like my fertilizers.


First seeds I ordered were delivered by a fellow in Sweden via a VCR tape cartridge. Straight from Sensi. I grew some in Dec. 1997


not sure why my posts were linked to this thread?
cool thread though


@SHSC-1 Sorry I was just linking yours because of how you were saying that back in the days of BC Skunks, everyone was using Peters ag fertilizers and they worked just fine, since Ben is of the same generation and a big proponent of them I thought he’d be interested to see that comment on how once you get basic nutrition and environment right it’s all about the genetics. Actually, I imagine you and Ben probably have a lot to talk about as peers from that era.


well that makes sense hehehe
yup, when i was first learning under my mentor and for the years that followed up to me switching to GH flora and the lucas method (modified), it was peters 20 20 20 veg and 2 weeks into flower and then peters 10-52-10 for flower. There was another granulated product that was added in flower but I’m not sure where we got it from as it was always in a big ziploc. Looking back I am guessing it was mg/ca and K. Back then I was just a garden apprentice and just worked off the feed charts I was given. It wasn;t until later and when I was on my own that I started to do my own learning and getting deeper into nutrition.

as per root pruning. One of the growers I know …20 years ago now,. He grew a constant flow system in long 12" diameter tubes with cutouts for large net pots. I am not sure exacly when in his cycle he performed his root pruning but he would lift his pots and prune his roots right back as part of his method. He was growing double dutch and I do have to say, his finished rooms and cured flower always impressed me.


4 males. All plants are a DARK green. Have not fed since upcanning on Dec. 25. Watering with rainwater. Funny, the Afghaan 90 X Master Kush 1990 all turned out male, just LOADED with balls. They were all treated with paclo.

Nutrition: Osmocote Indoor-Outdoor Plus, 5-6 month, 15-9-12 plus blood and bone meal, alfalfa meal “slop”.

This Deep Chunk, which was a runt for weeks, turned out male. Gorgeous plant with thick stems, very short internodes, skunky.


Never have I had such a struggle sexing a garden. Out of 8, still have 3 that are ???. 11 days 12/12. I normally do a 20/4 veg. Did a 18/6 this time. Hmmmmm…

Maui Wowie, unsexed.

Sensi Kush indica, unsexed.


The X’s on the pots didn’t work regarding root pruning. Will paint the entire surface from now on.


Ace Seeds, couple of freebies. Mandala Seeds, Ace Seed landrace hybrids received - wow!

PSA, don’t miss out on this bargain! I order BM7 soil, vermiculite, heavy items. BM mixes are very high quality, cheap (as opposed to cannabis crap and BS like FoxFarms). This is what the quality commercial ops buy by the pallent. Also got a 50# of Osmocote. $200 shipping fee waived. Get ya a big bag of vermiculite, BM7, Osmocote Indoor-Outdoor Plus and you’re all set to grow cannabis, veggies, potted or in ground baby trees…anything.

Wow, price drop to $19!



Time for some schooling. Wrote this ditty many years ago, posted it on the old OG and other forums.

The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering (edited)

A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of food blends high in P (and K). The plant will take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.

You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5 1 1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is “how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?”

Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop and iron chlorosis. It’s an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P, or low N foods.

I rotate fertilizer blends as the plant requires them, not because it is “the thing to do.” For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you’re getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need.

There are many foods I stock in my toolbox. Dyna-Gro is another excellent brand.

Stay away from cannabis specific foods. They market unsuspecting newbies who don’t yet have a handle on plant nutrition and soil chemistry.

Uncle Ben

Must read: Bloom Booster - Fertilizer Nonsense #5 - Garden Myths