August
1x Home attempt of cross GG4xSkittlez with NL suffering ac wind damage, from 2 hours of artic wind straight at the plant and fungus gnats since its taking 10 days to drink. (In coco) NOW ENDED the coco plant due to the poor growth. My fault.
Cheap Amazon LED (Vander 1500w full spectrum with bloom booster switch)(200w actual)
DWC set up - single. non recirculating.
33 litre black bucket with net pot
Clay pebbles
8 litres per min air pump
10cm disc air stone.
Intense Nutrients Hydro Schedule.
Coco pot
5 litre pot before pulling out the tent (up to 50 litre pot if required)
Coco noir + perlite
Intense Nutrients Coco Schedule.
MORE PICTURES
Post 8 - Day 14 since potting. (20 days since planted )
Post 26 - Day 17
Air Temp (ac controlled)
Water Temp (ac blowing at bottom of bucket, plant protected from direct cold air from ac)
Today’s Readings (Sept 1st)
PH 6.02 (DWC)
1440 ppm (DWC)
PH (Coco) now killed.
Air temp 24.4c (day) - 22c at night
Water temp 69.6f
Thanks mate, i am very new to DWC so any pointers would be a help,
im a little stumped how i do a res change without damaging roots? Im guessing i just move some of the existing water and net pot into a different bucket, make a fresh res get it to temp and pop it back it up? I assume i cant just drain the bucket and make refill with water while its in the same bucket?
Also correct me if im wrong i read its better to stay towards 6.0-6.2 in veg and 5.8-6.0 in flower? I had unfixable low ph issues in soil so im sensitive to PH monitoring now, made a chart to track changes daily.
If staving a little higher is a conscious decision that is probably fine - I am not sure about switching between veg and flower in DWC.
I do know that you can’t leave your roots dry while changing the res. So either just prepare another bucket and switch the entire buckets out, or store them temporarily in some water while you work on your res.
Edit: I have some girls growing atm, yes. My first coco adventure! 2 from seed and 2 clones, another first for me. I grew autoflowers in DWC before this.
When I change mine I just mix up a fresh batch. Then I set the plant into a empty bucket and just let the roots hang. Then clean the res, refill, run hoses/stones and then just put the roots back in the water. Never had any issues doing it that way. I also always let mine drift from 5.7-6.0 but usually maintain around 5.8. I always allow drift tho unless it is crazy spikes then of course you gotta get that shit under control lol. Good luck
LOL - Same here. Won the fem Barney’s seeds from The Vault, grew only 1 outdoor last year, was amzing. I thought I still had an oz or so, went looking & couldn’t find it damn! no
So 3 in the ground this year, took cuttings of the decent 1 even thought I don’t have an indoor garden.
When I did my first DWC I had a bucket pre-mixed then swapped, the airstone was run through the lid so it all came out at the same time and went into the new bucket.
Product like this makes changing water reservoirs a cinch. There’s others, doesn’t need to be this exact one.
Watch for low pH in fresh hand watered coco. It tends to initially pull calcium out of the solution which tends to drop pH. Watch for high temperatures in DWC. Add some sort of sterilizing agent to the water, it’ll make your life easier. Bleach or hydrogen peroxide or both. Sterile reservoir solves many problems with active hydroponics.
Totally clueless about about DWC additives so thanks il certainly look into sterilising the water. Think i got a tool like that for my fish il just need to extend the hose
Kinda new to Coco too. (2nd grow). Started with soil before that but we never got along anymore.
I’m a bit PH obsessed at the mo so il be keeping a close eye on both.
All i know so far in regards to protecting my DWC is keep the water temp below 70f and block light from entering the bucket.
im open all ears… and eyes
Good way to be. 90% of people’s problems in hydro/soilless/coco are pH related. Don’t 100% go by your measurements, read the plants as well. Calibrate that meter frquently; digital ones are often off.
If it looks claw-leafed, light lime green, yellow at the new growth, it’s low pH.
Dark green foliage, brown holes in leaves, it’s high pH.
Switch to pH drops, slightly less accurate but never totally wrong, never need calibrated.
Alkaline water is less prone to pH swings. If you have soft water, use a product called limewater; your pH will hold steadier and be more resistant to change.
Right and not just manage but I feel drift is absolutely necessary to unlocking a plants true full potential. A lot of people dont understand that your plant releases chemicals to raise or lower ph as they are feeding. So if your plant is hungry for x nutrient it will release y chemical to cause a ph drift to z number in order to feed correctly. If someone is constantly dumping chemical in to stay right where they want their ph they could very well be working against their plant. That’s why I just let it do its own thing as long as the numbers aren’t rising out of control of course
damn! no 
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