Yeeeewwww that looks good! I’m not getting any waves on that level, but I have also been enjoying all this late season southern swell that’s been happening. We’ve gotten quite a few overhead days in the past two weeks from it, with offshore wind and still really warm water, it’s been wonderful!
I had hit a bit of a rut in my surfing last year, and needed to really get focused again to keep my progression going. First off, like we had chatted about, got my fitness up, and dropped a good 10lb’s. And secondly, I’ve made a board style switch. I’ve always ridden traditional thrusters, and had never really experimented with more alternative boards. I traded my Hypto Krypto for a 6’4 2+1 board about six months’ ago, and it’s been really refreshing. It’s about 40 liters. It’s the biggest board I’ve ever surfed, and my wave count has gone through the roof on this thing, and it’s still nimble enough to be able to do cutbacks on. It held up well this past week in solid six foot surf.
I’m glad to hear your living the dream down there with that warm water, tropical surf! Someday I’ll have to come visit your region, and get all the tips on how to score! Your photos always get me jealous!