Greenleaf Nutrients MEGA CROP Q&A/Support/Pictures/Feedback/Anything thread

For sure. It’s just mean to be “simple” and cost effective, with readily available nutrients. It’s also meant to be good from veg through flower, and it’s somewhat close to that “mel frank” ratio. Maxibloom, Micro+Bloom, or Floranova Bloom one part at a certain g or ml/Gal gives the same elemental profile.

These plants in question just finished the last of FNB and were good on that.
Regardless, the resulting ppm seems to be good for both flower and veg. I duno, I think it’s a proven effective ‘formula’. And @SeymourGreen just went back to it…

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At whatever I feed them and typically about 7g a gal…


… I think I do alright… it isn’t about how many things are in it and in what concentration, it’s about knowing what the plants can handle and everything I have in flower starts at 6.5g and gets increased or decreased as the plant shows differing signs of excess or deficiency, not relying on some number chart and keeping your pH in check are the first steps to breaking away from those ridiculous 12billion part, 98% colored water, liquid nutes…

Edit: been using megacrop since I started and it does the trick for me just fine… simple and easy one part

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Cool.

-How many g/Gal of megacrop are you feeding in veg?
-Tap water or RO, and what’s the starting e.c./ppm?
-What does your 6g/Gal solution end up at e.c. or ppm wise, and pH wise?

We’re not coming from a 12billion part bottle nute series. Not in flower. Not ‘relying’ on numbers/charts but definitely trying to learn and understand what’s actually going on using every tool available.

Thanks.

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plants look great! :clap: :clap:

edit: They seem to possibly be able to use a little higher dosage.

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Oh for sure… With these two I was using original formula megacrop (hording fool) and I could always feed alot higher with it, usually up to 9 or 10g and the plants just ate it up

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Would you be able to answer the few questions I posted a couple posts up please? Thanks.
(Btw, if that’s 10g/Gal, then MC might be half(!) as cost efficient as one might have originally thought if they thought they’d be feeding at 4-5g/Gal. Don’t forget that.)

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Yea… that was the V1, could feed really high but that’s before I found out about ppm and pH and all that…

Using tap, mines pretty high about 250… Typically will feed in the 1350 range as that’s with the tap the actual feed ppm is about 1100…

My pH is high from the tap and megacrop lowers it Abit (if I was in soil it would be perfect) but for coco I need to buffer it down a little lower with some pH down… I try to start the feed at as close to 6 as I can .

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OUTSTANDING!!! plus 20 friggn more…

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As for cost efficiency part of the post, a 500g bag typically lasts me and 4 plants in 2gal containers about 2.5 runs before I have to order again

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Remember, you can use coupon code MEGACROP for 6% discount and also create/sign in to your account for 5% extra rewards points currently (11% total discount for cost conscious people).

Also, if you post on Instagram, we can give you some discounts as well for tagging us with your MegaCrop grows.

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I do not understand your NPK ratios…??? Site says designed for weed…???

I also use 1 part nutes, but not at your ratios…can you explain them to me??? Like: WHY so much N in the ratio, from my eye…WAY too much N for flower.

I see the plants here grown with it…and seems most people like it.

I recently changed my veg to 2/1/1 and saw great results, but the change in flower to 1/2/2 REALLY made a huge difference. About out of my nutes, need some, but just not gonna feed YOUR ratio’s in flower to my plants. Thought I would ask you to explain your numbers…NOT trying to be an ass, WANT to understand WHY you ratio them the way YOU DO???
Thanks man!!!

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Lol, what?

Ah, that puts more perspective on it. Thank you for the info. And I assume that’s the 500 scale.
I was seeing some things that could indicate the limit of N was reached, so I couldn’t increase MC for fear of burn (which now it’s showing, guess I was right).

It’s cost effective, regardless.
I’m just saying if something is advertised (or one figures usage themselves) as having an application rate of 10mL/Gal, and you actually have to use 20mL/Gal, whatever ‘math’ you’d done on cost to run it is now doubled. For example.

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I think a better way to use it, instead of the contradictory grams into gals would be to make a 1000ml concentrated solution and try to figure the amounts to add to hit the ppm were you want it…

Dry mixing into a single gallon is sometimes hit and miss, especially at the bottom of the feed bag

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What are you using, nutrient wise? I’m just curious, and how ya went (from something else) to 2/1/1, and switch to 1/2/2 for flower. You’re talking about the NPK label percentages or … what? Could you post the elemental values of what you’re feeding or something too?

Just interested in what you’re running.

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I am talking about the NPK RATIOS on the fed.

Take one of MC’s nutes at NPK’s 20/20/20…that is a 1/1/1 RATIO…the ratios’ of the percentage of N, P and K in the mix.

A fed with 10/2/15 would be a 5/1/8 RATIO…just divide the smallest number into the others for the ratio.

The fed I USE TO USE had a ratio too high in N…weak stems, too much GREEN, too much leaf/bud ratio.

Generally accepted RATIOS are: For Moms(slow, steady. “on hold”) 1/1/1…I use Grow Terra at 20/20/20 at 1 teaspoon per gallon(400-500 PPM)

For Veg we want High N to P and K…like 2/1/1…3/1/1…I use Texas Vegetable Fertilizer at 6/2.5/5…or 2.5/1/2…I use it BECAUSE it is 100 natural and has ALL the macro’s and trace elements included in it. 1 teaspoon per gallon is again about 500-600 ppm. I use it all veg, and 2.5 weeks into flower. Week 3 of flower I switch.

Flower we want LOWER N…higher P and K. DEBATE upon which should be higher, P or K…2 schools of thought on that. We want 1/2/2…or .5/2/2…or even 0/2/2…

I mix 2 feds to get MY RATIO…Grow Terra @ 20/20/20(1/1/1…perfect BASE to mix from) and Sea Grow @ 4/26/26(1/6/6)…mixed 50/50 it gives me 1/2/2 RATIO…1 tea per gallon is 550 PPM or so. Early flower is at 1 tea per…week 7 ramps to 1.5, week 8 and 9 at 2.0 then back down to 1 tea to finish.

When I changed to 1/2/2 for flower…immediately I got : LESS GREEN COLOR(was way too green) NO MORE floppy stems, or "red painted " leaf stems(NOT GOOD THING GENERALLY ) , NO MORE “leafy” Buds, 2 times the Bud density, maybe 3 times the “smell”. Pants now “fade” at flowers end instead of staying GLOWING GREEN from N in flower.

THESE ARE JUST …JMHO…but never going back to a N rich flower food again. Playing with ratios these last 2 runs…1/2/2 for early flower…then a shot of the 1/6/6 at week 5 or so, then back to 1/2/2. Last 2 weeks I go 0/1/2…

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Found at another site:

We designed the MEGA CROP NPK ratio directly around Cannabis/Hemp genetics, which is fairly similar to tomatoes (in fact we run Mega Crop on a hobby tomato farm locally with great results all the way through!).

If we made it into 2 formula, the veg formula would have slightly higher N, and the bloom would have slightly lower N. The different is pretty slight, so it functions very well as a 1 part for the whole lifecycle. Once we saw the difference was pretty similar, we just made a 1 part formula to make it “easier” for growers. To avoid Nitrogen toxicity, we are using high Nitrate nitrogen sources, so even in Flowering/Budding phase if you are a high dosage, it is more resistant to any Nitrogen toxicity. So this is another reason why it works very well as a true 1 part, you can bump up the dosage to boost PK and be more resistant to N toxicity issues.

See previous post, some growers will want a lower N in flower (higher PK), so the solution for this scenario is to just add in an extra PK booster. So, you would use 2 products, MC + PK booster, which is still only 2 products and far less than other companies laundry list feeding schedules.

So, a few different scenarios we considered, and in the future we might make some small changes.

  1. Make MEGA CROP a dedicated Veg formula, then add in extra PK boost for flower in a 2-part

  2. Make MC a hybrid veg/bloom formula as a universal 1 part, the one we chose.

  3. Make MC a dedicated Bloom formula, and have a separate N booster for Veg phase

We actually might consider switching over to option 3) in the future. Since bloom phase for most indoor growers is the longest phase and veg is short (which seems to be a large amount of our customer base #'s), it would be more appropriate to have the formula focus on Bloom. Also the N boost for veg phase could be done with a simple Cal/Mag boost, since people already use this very commonly anyways. However, we have a few large outdoor growers who do extended veg phase, and they usually make very large orders.

To add in some even more factors to consider, the nutrients needs of Cannabis/Hemp can vary pretty significantly even between different strains/cultivars and mediums/soil used!

We set Si at what we considered a safe/ideal level, if the consensus is that it is too low, we can boost it in the future very easily.

As far as the Magnesium, we had a few people say they have “Cal Mag issues” which could mean their dosage is wrong, or using strains / medium which is Magnesium demanding. We are looking to increase Magnesium level 25% in the future to cover all bases. Usually the “CalMag issue” is just a “Mag” issue so we agree it would be nice to have a bit more Magnesium (chelated) in the future.

Thanks for your feedback! It was very clearly stated.

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Mega Crop can be customized to meet other NPK ratios.

Adding in CalMag (13-0-0) will boost a lot of Nitrogen
Adding in Bud Explosion (0-26-37) will boost PK .

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I understand that, and HOW to figure or change ratios…WHAT i was wanting to know is WHY you ratio it the way you do IF it is geared for MJ???

Your thoughts on RATIOS is where I was going…2/1/3 for MJ flower??? THAT is what I wanted to know

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It would be more like 3/2/6 but it’s a fair point. I certainly expected a higher Phosphorus ratio. The results I’ve seen have been pretty dramatic though and there is the point that doesn’t matter how much nutrition if your roots can’t take it up and so the focus is on a healthy root system.

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I think it’s more because, short of a bit of excess N in flower, it is about the best straight through ratio they could’ve made… I’m ok if my leaves are a little darker in flower as long as I don’t need to add extra shit to my feed lol

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