There will be some seeds.
Ahh thats intresting to know, i didnt know that. Thankyou
@GreenleafNutrients my friends. I love my MegaCrop. I’m old and very high most of the time. Will I still be able to get the “old school” 1 part? With balls and all?
THX!
However, I do like the less nitrogen option as I am currently cutting MegaCrop in half during flower.
Yes, we are keeping our 1 part as our main product!
The 2 part is more specialized for injector and customized growers.
Just started using the new 2-part MC in one of my DWC tote’s, so far so good. Not much in the way of sediment but does need some thorough mixing. Site calc seems to work perfectly and I like being able to vary the nitrogen content as needed. Prefer this over the V2 I still have that’s for sure…
Would the 2-part be applicable to soil at all or just hydro? Should I stick with the 1 part for soil or?
Genius Thai harvested @63 days. MegaCrop version 1 which I supplement with Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) in veg and first two weeks of flower.
@GreenleafNutrients - I grow in an indoor raised bed. In the past, I had been re-ammending the soil using a Super Soil-like recipe. The last couple of years I’ve been experimenting with re-ammending using a pelletized dry organic nutrient and then supplementing for the missing stuff like potassium silicate. I’ve been hunting for a more complete dry nutrient so that I don’t need to supplement as much. Can I add Greenleaf directly to my soil between crops? The website only mentions mixing with water. If so, at what rate per gallon of soil?
yes you can do this. We do not have specific instructions about it really, a lot of factors to considered.
Thank you for the reply. Can you please go into some of those factors? I would be amending used soil and have a home NPK soil test kit.
I would think that a readily soluble fertilizer like MC would be a bad idea as a soil amendment. The amendments that are normally used in the way that @BCC describes are semi-soluable, slow release formulas.
Something readily soluble will dissolve into a high concentration as soon as water is added to the soil. So over the first few waterings, concentrations would be ridiculously high and then they would quickly dissipate to near nothing after subsequent waterings.
Perhaps I am wrong, and this isn’t the case specifically with MC - but I am using it now and I can say that it dissolves almost instantly when I mix up my 3 gallon batches of it.
I would recommend traditional amendments such as blood & bone meal, earthworm castings, compost, etc.
If you want to use MC in soil, go for it - but mix it with water and feed that way.
After two weeks that was a pretty lame answer from gln
@cogitech hit the nail on the head : )
Gln deffinately gets more out of this relationship than us ogers seem to lol
: )
Thanks @cogitech. I had not really considered that. I’m currently using pelletized dry organic nutrients and had assumed this would work similarly. I now realize that is not the case. Thank you.
(I used to mix/re-amend my own soil, like Super Soil, but I switched to an indoor 4x2 bed (I call it low-till) and mixing in the amendments is hard on my back. Before, I would keep old soil in a large bin and it was easier to deal with, but I like the results from the bed.)
Greenleaf, I use the one part and I am in very hot and dry weather, so I have to water twice a day most of the summer. Should I split the recommended amount into two, or should I provide a consistent solution on my feeding days? I’m watching the cannabis, tomato and chiles for burn and everything looks good so far just feeding at one watering of the two.
Consistent feedings for sure!
Just did my nighttime watering with consistent amount of MC, thanks dude.
No problem, if you see burning just try a lower consistent dose. Hope it works well for ya
For a slow release nitrogen, you need a urea/coated type, which is not suitable for hydroponics. Even then, commercial farmers will do multiple doses through the season. So, there is really no way to get around this and still get optimum results.
Just use consistent solution, and monitor the plant. If you are noticing overdosing because the plant is using a large amount of the water to stay cool, then you can adjust the nutrient dosage to account for it.
GLN what do you advise about rust mites and do I think epsom lowers ph?
PM
3 week flower, 4g mc, 1.5g mpk, 0.5g epsom, RO water, nissorun + polysect + cypper kill 500ec for russet mits
Or i need ph up i im used air bubler stone
I must used super croping
You may want to check out sierranaturalscience.com for some of their ORGANIC/NATURAL products for that problem. I’m NON-affiliated, but DO use their products, a good value. Best of luck, keep at it. Be well/safe.