Greenleaf Nutrients MEGA CROP Q&A/Support/Pictures/Feedback/Anything thread

Cheers for the half answer

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Yeppers!

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Possibly Calcium nitrate but the Calcium nitrate I have is not as hygroscopic as say calcium chrloride which sucks up moisture really fast.

'I keep the MC 1 part in its own bag and then in a rubber maid tote and no issues. I break it down into smaller bags for customers. Only time it would clump up is if I left the bag open. Best bet is to put it into a ziplock and get all the air out.

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Thatā€™s what I have been doing and the stuff in the bag is fine so far. Sure pumps out a cloud of dust each time I open it tho. :slight_smile:

:peace:

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Yah I wear a mask then breaking it down or just be really easy and slowly squeeze the air out.

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I have been using v1 from a couple 22lb bags I got a few years ago. I finally ran out and ordered a bag of v3 (I had a choice for v2 or v3 from a Canadian seller). I was shocked that the stuff looks and smells different, at least so far from the small bit I just mixed up. Smells more like when I fertilize the lawn.

my V1 was very brown and smelled like a shrimp orgy which I got used to and didnā€™t smell it so much (different story for the wifey!). This V3 is all white powder with black specs. What was the brown stuff and why is it gone? I know it smelled but it sorta gave it that ā€œits workingā€ feel (LOL).

I am having issues with this powder stuff dissolving. The v1 dissolved with a minute of mixing and then I would pour it through a rosin bag to filter it as it seems there was some quality issues with sediment and pieces of dried woody stuff. I had to bump the PPM with the new stuff and so I took some water from the RDWC (with about 600ppm of MC v1) and after mixing it for about 5 minutes there were still white specs and black flakes. When I touched or squish them against the pitcher then seem to dissolve. I poured the solution through the 90 micron bag and gave it a squish to get rid of the undissolved bits.

I am hoping that it may have been the water with nutrients or what am I doing wrong with v3? Need warmer water? or is it precipitating due to the way I did it with 600PPM of 1 L water and 23g of MC?

Edit: Phone grammer :slight_smile:

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Hello @kingtitan420, and welcome to overgrow.com!

So I canā€™t comment on the differences in formulas from V1 to V2 or V3, but Iā€™m guessing part of the reason for the change from V1, a formula that you describe as smelling like a shrimp orgy, is as much or more about costs than results. If it actually included a shrimp based compound, thatā€™s gotta be a lot more expensive and difficult to stockpile in massive quantities than what they are using now - which is pure chemicals.

The extra bonus for Greenleaf using only chemicals now is that they can claim itā€™s ā€œveganā€. Which is funny if you think about it - ā€œveganā€? Like, ok - no animals or animal products are used, but they use the ā€œveganā€ term like itā€™s comparable to or a step beyond ā€œorganicā€.

As for mixing it up, Iā€™m currently testing their 2 part formula, which probably mixes similarly to your single part V3. Iā€™ve seen others comment on the poor dissolving issues and have seen it myself, especially when I add the Sweet Candy. So what I and others have done is to use warm water.

My personal solution to resolving the dissolving issue is to use about 3 quarts of warm water to mix my Part A, Part B and Sweet Candy, then mix that solution in the remaining volume of water that Iā€™m using for my plants. I actually have a heated magnetic stirrer, so I use the largest stir bar I have in a bowl of warm water, add my ingredients one at a time, and let it mix slowly for a while before dumping that mixture into the larger volume of water. Zero issues with sediment or dissolving.

Edit: I see you edited your post to include the warm water suggestion before I completed my post. So, yeah - try that.

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Thanks for the Reply @Purple-N-Hairy. Yeah I must have been editing while you were replying! Was waiting for the post to be approved so I could edit it lol.

I will try the warm water on the next bump in a couple days. In about a week iā€™ll be doing a 50 gallon water change to my RDWC at 4 week flower and I will post if I see any differences in this stuff vs the V1 when its running 90% MC v3.

I found the v1 had too much Nitrogen and with my hydro setup I clone then veg 2 or 3 days max after the first roots then its 12/12.

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If you use tap water, 50 gallons of warm water is probably not an issue. But if it is, just start with a 5 gallon bucket of water, then take a few quarts out and heat it up enough that when added back to the bucket, the water is warm. Do your mixing in that bucket until everything is dissolved, then add it to your larger reservoir.

Let us know how it worked out. Good luck!

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Is everything okay, why are the upper leaves curling, and does she have eggs in her?



ā°

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Actually the opposite, we increased the Calcium and Magnesium and P in the more updated formula, and also increased the seaweed kelp. The more updated Mega Crop is more concentrated and costs more in raw ingredient costs. Some of the ā€œbrown organic ingredientsā€ mentioned above were scaled back (it was never shrimp), since these ingredients made the pH more unpredictable and promoted too much biological growth that people complained about. Also it was very dusty and difficult on processing equipment.

Vegan is better than organic imo, since animal products and excrement accumulate toxins and heavy metals in the environment (due to being high on the food chain), so having a vegan fertilizer facilitates less toxins and pollutants.

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Please donā€™t follow this advice, this is bad advice. Just do the normal mixing into the final full water mixture, and slowly stir in/add the nutrients. If you noticed anything undissolved, wait 30minutes or 1h and it should be dissolved in. Some smaller bits of calcium may even take 24 hours to dissolve in fully, but you can just ignore these mostly.

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Itā€™s a phosphorous deficiency which imo is the biggest problem with mega crop. The issue for me has been that the K (potassium) is already quite high in MC, so when you add a PK booster you have to be careful not to overload it. As a result you end up with even more K and still not enough P. I tried to find a a P only supplement to correct this but couldnā€™t find anything suitable in Canada.

Iā€™ve been using mega crop for a couple years now and have concluded that itā€™s just not ideal for flowering, particularly late flowering. My plants ALWAYS finish with severe P deficiencies and I donā€™t think itā€™s possible to fix without making some crazy custom blend.

That said itā€™s a great nute for veg and early flower, pretty rock solid once you dial it in.

Also note Iā€™ve been using v2 this whole time, so the newer blends might be better in this regard.

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Well, if youā€™re not going to tell me why itā€™s ā€œbad adviceā€, youā€™re just being rude.

I think most of us would rather NOT wait up to an hour, then just ā€œignoreā€ the smaller bits of calcium that donā€™t dissolve after 24 damn hours. My method (using a magnetic stirrer, similar to what you see in the GIF) works perfectly to dissolve everything that I use (part A, Part B and Sweet Candy), and adding this completely mixed up solution to the larger volume of water. I can start my mixing process prior to my lights coming on and have everything mixed up and ready to feed the plants when theyā€™re ready to be fed, and Iā€™m ready to feed them. No waiting for anything to dissolveā€¦
GiftedUnlawfulLangur-size_restricted

So, please - tell me why itā€™s bad advice. I mean, considering Iā€™ve been doing it my way for the past month or so and have zero issues, Iā€™m truly interested to hear your explanation.

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Triple Super phosphate or rock phospahte?

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Too high n and little p in flower = leafy non dense buds

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I actually got some treble super phosphate and itā€™s not readily available to the plantā€¦it ended up causing more issues than it solved. I believe rock phosphate is similar. Theyā€™re more for adding to soil and breaking down over time as far as I can tell.

All the suitable ones I found also had some N which is already too high in MC for later flowering.

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Hmmm, I am about 60% finished with my 22lb bag of V1. This is making me think about switching when I run out. (maybe to Jacks)
Not that itā€™s relevant but my tomatoes this yr seem to be doing fine on Megacrop V1 and their PK booster (forget the name). Note: I always add Nectar of the Gods Herculean Harvest to everything that I grow. Cannabis plants love the stuff. (in soil)

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Anyone using MC with high PPM tap water? Iā€™m in SoCal and the tap water is 600-700 PPM easy. I have had good luck with low dose GH products in the past. Growing in fox farm soil. Now going to do autos so itā€™s not too long of a game. Hate to get an R/O system and put all of that waste water down the drain. Really intrigued by MegaCrop but curious how it might work with our tap water.

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My tap is between 400-450 with a couple ph between 7.1-7.3
Iā€™ve used the 1 part and now use the 2 part. With the 1 part I always added .5gr/gl Epsom salts but thatā€™s because my well water has a natural cal:mag ratio of 6:1 so I add the Epsom to get the mag levels closer to ideal ratio.
With the 2 part it all depends on how much of the ā€œBā€, calcium nitrate, Iā€™m adding. When Iā€™m a couple weeks into flower and can use almost none or late in flower when Iā€™m using none of the ā€œBā€ the. I also donā€™t need the Epsom cause the ā€œAā€ already has mag with no cal.

So basically Iā€™d check the water reports from your area and see what the cal:mag ratios of your water are. I only had issues when I first started with it that I thought was Potassium deficiency but it was just an imbalance of Cal/Mag causing a lockout. Once that was fixed it works great for me.

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