i will check yet i keep thinking not a single plant or seedling that was fed just water ever showed any unhealthy signs. but i will check. thank you.
I got a Bluelab I paid 75 for and it reads the same as the $10 Amazon one. Only thing is I canât change from ec to TDS with the cheap one
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If the water has a lot of minerals in it the problems arises when you add the nutes not knowing where you started from. If the ph is high or low to start it will still be fucked up when youâre done. You have to know what youâre starting with to have a good quality outcome. Check the ph of the water with nothing in it
does the ec also have a $10 ( or cheap) version then you can have one for each TDS and ec
I found thisâŚI will post then comprehendâŚHard water (high mineral content) is usually high in pH . Soft water (low mineral ) is usually low in pH . The mineral in hard water will act as a buffer which will reduce the amount of acid in the water . The resulting water will be more alkaline and higher in pH .
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Dunno didnât look for one lol I ended up with the Bluelab by mistake, guy at the hydro store thought it was a ph meter. I donât use it anymore because I know what my water is and what my nutes add. Thatâs the same every time. I did check every time I made nutes for a while but after 8 months of it staying the same I skip that now. Got to have a good ph meter if you can afford a good one get it and store it in storage solution so it will last
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Exactly to high ph will kill your plants too. Also feeding to much will cause salt build up in the soil
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and both is a 2 bullet death 
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Well the high ph could be helping because a salt build up usually causes low ph. Without knowing what youâre starting with diagnosing what happened is going to go as well as trying to piss up a rope lol
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I was ready to use my also amazon digital ph meter and read i need ionized water to calibrate so I have to get that now
Accurate nutrient measurement, as well as making sure your bottled nutes are agitated to ensure an even mix are crucial in my opinion. Recently back to growing, but had good results in Pro-Mix/perlite in 5 gal plastic buckets using full rate GH 2 part for two feedings then a flush to 30% runoff on the third. (Talking 17 years ago) was Definitely tried to let them get fairly dry in between. Seems to me it would be hard to overwater plants later in flower in 5 gal cloth containers as much as most consume at that stage. Thinking your input water is high ph. Watering my outdoor tomato crop last year had great early growth then went south fast (stunted growth, flowering stopped or slowed greatly, crispy leaf die off) When I phâd my city water it was >8, so my nutes, while plentiful in my amended soil, were locked out. Use that ph pen and make sure your ph is in correct range on your nutrient solution going in for sure!
As to your other question about hermied plants, almost all plants will throw male flowers when stressed enough (CS, STS) but you want to avoid plants that throw male flowers when stressed a little ( If you like your sinsemilla ). Also seeds created from such low stress male flowers may have similar qualities when grown out.
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You can use distilled with the packs of stuff they give to mix and calibrate or just get bottles of calibration solution and no need for anything else.
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growing great! then (stunted growth, flowering stopped or slowed greatly, crispy leaf die off) Yes that is what was. ⌠if they are not drinking it could present as over watering falselyâŚbucket stays heavier longer I think I gave too much⌠I do not know how ruff of a time was received by the plants by the now 4 possible variables? Off PH, over watered/over fert+no flushing, cold roots at night and left on display screen on at nightâŚ( someone call Plant aid.) I remedied as I noticed, floor, light but was off course as far as feeds ph already mentioned, oh yes, have it being ruff, thew journey, if it had been rough (debate-able,) were any one would have broke under the interrogation lol I would hope for a keeper trait-ed like the shorter vegged ones I particularly like as equally as I would resent something even just one tester to get by with some hermi pollen and seed my crop. I mean the ones to go were kinda stressed , I repeatedly topped them, bent it horizontal did that kushmans "Chiropractic⌠lol but they still dyed so ya so still never sure, I mean if i just grow out all the seeds try and keep the winners rid the losers and let them seed ( sound like phi phi movie like it was people lol) then I might have a stable reserve? Never mind me I am just buzzed rambling on but your message is good. sorry about your tomatoes that sucks , tomatoes and peppers is stage two of my gardening plans, slice it up with the eggs,lil salt yum, no going to the store nothing.
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Am I strange because I like litmus paper? After blowing through ph meter after meter over the last decade, buying a legit lab ph meter calibration kit, having from the cheapest meter on ebay, to 60 dollar meters, I find litmus the easiest, most consistent way to test. And its super cheap, I got 300 tests for like $3. I do still test my paper with my buffered PH chemicals, to make sure the color printed is an accurate representation. You dip a 4, 7 and 10 and then compare to the printed chart.
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Ive done it a few ways. I used to water until X% runoff but I donât do that anymore. 2L in a 3G pot is perfect.
If anything I use less fertilizer. I use less and less until I see the plants arenât liking it and then I bump it up and leave it there. Iâm in later flower and going 10ml per gallon which is about half of the manufacturers directions.
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That works if youâre nute solution is clear, mine however itâs always pink so it fucks with the colors
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Trust me Iâve used my share of general hydro nutes I can not stress enough flush lots . Half what they recommend is at most too much let alone what they say to use .
There micro stains roots to a brownish red ,Iâve had as high as 2800 run off using general hydro itâs like everythingâs good then bam no good to worst to death .
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Never thought of that! Mine is always murky gray, a few drops are clear
Iâve even experienced that in dwc. Doing great then slight signs of nute burn. Then all the sudden it goes from just slightly burned tips to completely fried leaves. Had a goldleaf lose all itâs sugar leaves about week 6 then it just did nothing after that. Great yield of shit lol oddly the sour strawberry and starcube grown in the same resivoirs did amazing. Iâm running 3/4 of what their feed chat recommends except for calmag, for some reason under LED they crave it
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No ties to this company but I switched to plant prod salts . There 3 part designed for weed is so much simpler than the 13 jugs of general hydro and works well.