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funny, that he said its not dawee.
I extra went looking when you mentioned that, and i went where he showcases/sells it , and he clearly named atleast “one” of “his” dalats : da we dalat. Probably he has two lines,
It ever appered to me he only sold one dalat, as his strains often stay long in his possesion … Anyway
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This is the base soil mix I have been using seems to work pretty good with these long flowering sativas. I usually start with: 7 gallons of sphagnum peat moss 7 gallons of seasoned compost/fish compost/ leaf mold 7 gallon of worm castings from my worm bins. 7 gallons of perlite
this is the base for the soil then we add dry amendments and IMO (indigenous microorganisms)
I usually add about 10 cups of Imo per every 15 gallons of soil so the formula above 7 + 7 + 7 + 7 equals 28 gallons of soil I would use approximately 20 cups of IMO 4
You don’t have to use IMO 4 but it’s a great source of microorganisms that will be needed to break down your soil and Dry amendments.
Dry Amendment Blend: These are in weights per Gallon of Finished/Uncooked soil
mix. So for every gallon of soil you add the weight listed times the amount of soil being made.
Example: 10 gal of soil would get 1.4 oz of Azomite. 10 x 0.14 =1.4
Ingredient Blend
Azomite 0.14 oz
Alfalfa Meal
(Replaces N Bat Guano)
0.45 oz
Soft Rock Phosphate
(Replaces Bone Meal and
Phos Bat Guano)
2 oz
Kelp Meal 0.04 oz
Fish Bone Meal
(Replaces Blood Meal)
1 oz
Langebeinite 0.01 oz
Ph Seabird Guano 0.04 oz
Greensand 0.59 oz
Oyster Shell Flour 1 oz
Gypsum 0.8 oz
Andesite 0.14 oz
Basalt 0.14 oz
Glacial Rock Dust 0.14 oz.
All of the soil amendments are slow release and have to be broken down by soil
microbes before available to the plant. I Mix soil a minimum of 2 months in
advance to allow the soil time to cook and cool down so no burning occurs. I’ve
used in as little time as two weeks with zero issues but I wouldn’t recommend it.
COVER CROPS
I also plant Cover Crops. Ones that are NPK Fixing as well as Dynamic
Accumulators. I Use the BuildASoil.com Clover Cover Crop Blend. Not only does
the cover crop assist with moisture retention, NPK, Organic Matter but it also
helps the Mycorrhizae as they love these types of cover crops.
This Blend includes the following cover crop species:
Flax: Helps With Phos Uptake. Adds NPK to soil after harvesting.
Clover: N Fixing. Adds NPK for future crops after it is harvested and allowed to
add to soil. Also adds minute NPK as a Green Manure.
Lentils: Mycorrhizae Love this stuff also adds NPK to the soil after harvesting.
Millet: High in Nitrogen and it stores it and it breaks down and becomes available
to the plant after you have harvested this. Great Organic Input for N.
Vetch: N Fixing. Stores Massive Amounts of N for future crops when allowed to
add to soil.
Cowpea: A fantastic Green Mulch that Adds lots of N to the soil for current/future
crop use.
Buckwheat: Pulls Phos from the soil making it more readily available after it is
allowed to add to soil.
Pea: Also adds lots of N to the soil when allowed to add to soil.
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Each Amendment will vary in NPK so read your labels to get a full NPK of what you
are adding to your soil. These are just the NPK of what I use.
Azomite Adds:
- 0.02% Potash
- 1.8% Calcium
- 0.5% Magnesium
- Misc. Trace Nutrients
Alfalfa Meal Adds: - 2.0% Nitrogen
- 1.0% Phosphorous
- 2.0% Potassium
Soft Rock Phosphate Adds: - 3.0% Phosphorous (20% Total Phosphorous)
- 20.0% Calcium
Kelp Meal Adds: - 0.25% Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.75% Insoluble Nitrogen
- 2.0% Potash
- Misc. Trace Nutrients
Fish Bone Meal Adds: - 3.0% Nitrogen
- 15% Phosphorous
- 18% Calcium
Langebeinite Adds: - 22.0% Potash
- 10.8% Magnesium
- 22.0% Sulfur
- 3.0% ChlorinePhos Seabird Guano Adds:
- 11.0% Phosphorous
- 20.0% Calcium
Greensand Adds:
- 0.02% Potash (10% Potassium Total)
- 1.2% iron
- 0.5% Magnesium
- 0.05% Manganese
- 60+ Trace Minerals
Oyster Shell Flour Adds: - 35.0% Calcium
Gypsum Adds: - 22.5% Calcium
- 18.0% Sulfur
Andesite Adds: - 62.0% Silica
- 4.0% Calcium
- 2.0% Magnesium
- 6.0% Potassium
- 0.8% Phosphorous
- Many Trace Minerals
Basalt Adds: - 22.0% Silica
- 13.0% Iron
- 0.20% Manganese
- 6.0% Magnesium
- 7-10% Calcium
- 0.22% Phosphorous
- 0.83% PotassiumGlacial Rock Dust Adds:
- 0.846% Magnesium
- 0.0012% Cobalt
- 3.0% Iron
- 0.05% Manganese
- 1.4% Calcium
- 1.2% Potassium
- Trace Minerals
All of the soil amendments are slow release and have to be broken down by soil
microbes before available to the plant. I Mix soil a minimum of 2 months in
advance to allow the soil time to cook and cool down so no burning occurs. I’ve
used in as little time as two weeks with zero issues but I wouldn’t recommend it.
13 Likes
The Fish Compost I make myself. 25 parts hardwood wood shavings and wood
chips to 1 Part fish carcass. I Go by weight and Not Volume on this one so 1# of
Fish Scraps gets 25# of wood shavings/chips added to it and mixed thoroughly.
This Process takes months just like any Compost Process.
LEAF MOLD
Leaf Mold is very easy but time consuming to make. I use the Large Contactors
Black Garbage Bags. I fill as many of these as
possible with leaves.
Once each bag is about 99% Full I sprinkle the leaves down with water, shake then
tie and punch a bunch of holes in the bag. I store outside in the shade, either my
garage or besides my garage, for 6 months to one year. When I return I have black
gold. A crumbly Leaf only compost that is very rich and earthy smelling. I mix this
in my soil mix and use as a top mulch on the rare occasion I have enough.
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Im not really into fertilizers, but i heard seaweed contains nearly all Nutrients that exists. They are not longterm-fertilizers, and thats what i actually would want them to be. There is a fertilizer sold made out seaweed that clamis to be longterm tho. I think it has something added, so Nutrients are relased slowly.
The cooles thing would be if i could find a homemade way to make seaweed longterm… Cause you can find it easily in any lake, and go collecting on a hot summerday, for free.
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That is a really good idea. It’s likely someone here has played with that idea. If not, might need to start experiments!
If you live on the coast , obviously you can collect almost unlimited amounts of seaweed. Don’t know about lake/Resevoir/river weeds…or if the seaweed you harvest at your ocean beach is as beneficial as the types that are being sold, something to be researched for sure. Sure know my plants like it!!!
We are getting a bit off base for the Da Lat thread, but a good discussion for sure!!!
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It is not just any seaweed, but rather a specific type of kelp ascophyllum nodosum. The name always reminds me of a Harry Potter spell.
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Anyone who lives in New England, or Atlantic Ocean accessible Canada, it is the seaweed that has little egg-shaped bubbles along its length.
There are other benefits to other seaweeds and kelps, saltwater and freshwater alike, but you’d have to get their hormone levels tested to decide when and for what to use them.
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I opened a Topic about Seaweed Fertilizer, please continu there: Seaweed - a perfect Fertilizer?
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I like to go to the woods and find leaf mold around creek bottoms
- i have places to find natural microbes as well.
and yes, I’m a cheapo…
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Thats not cheap thats smart. Have you ever tried to make IMO? Or tried KNF?
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yep - spring or summer only time I had success…Lacto is good way to go too.
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Ah, I think we call that rockweed, the easiest for me to get in quantity, washed up or harvested right from tidal zone. I remember reading There’s a daily limit for harvesting seaweed here. We even have seaweed farms, they come and buy fish tanks from my work often lol.
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Ok time for the monday morning update. Week 2 of 11/13 light cycle. they are all starting to stabilize no more funky colored/shaped leafs by 6th node. # 4 is thriving it has branches coming out above every fan leaf. Nothing’s been topped or femmed let the stretch begin.
#1. 10 " tall
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